Instructions to remove the DPF?
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 50
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
Instructions to remove the DPF?
Hey everyone,
My 2013 ML350 Bluetec is at 400 000 km. My AEM warranty is over and now, all of a sudden (great timing!), I'm getting multiple codes related to emission stuff (Nox sensors, the PM sensor and a temperature sensor). I'm throwing in the white towel and going with a full delete from Malone. I'll do all of the work myself. My only concern is the DPF...
Does anyone have the instructions on how to remove it? Do you remove it from the bottom of the car or the top? Both? I've never removed it before. Any help would be appreciated...I've searched the forums and haven't found anything...
Thank you in advance.
My 2013 ML350 Bluetec is at 400 000 km. My AEM warranty is over and now, all of a sudden (great timing!), I'm getting multiple codes related to emission stuff (Nox sensors, the PM sensor and a temperature sensor). I'm throwing in the white towel and going with a full delete from Malone. I'll do all of the work myself. My only concern is the DPF...
Does anyone have the instructions on how to remove it? Do you remove it from the bottom of the car or the top? Both? I've never removed it before. Any help would be appreciated...I've searched the forums and haven't found anything...
Thank you in advance.
Not sure what you mean. The filter is inline in the exhaust. It comes out from underneath the car. I've never heard of anyone removing the DEF tank, if that's what you are referring to. I doubt it would be difficult but I don't see any point. Mine is likely pretty much full of solidified urea by now. I used BuzzKen hardware for my delete in conjunction with a Malone stage 1 tune. Its a very neat finished product - indistinguishable from factory unless the inspector absolutely knew what he was looking for. That's irrelevant in SK but I think you have mandatory inspections in ON so may be important. I added the BuzzKen cat converter - not sure if that was necessary but I did it anyway. I get a detectable diesel smell on startup but its a diesel - its supposed to smell like that. Its not even close to any other diesel I've owned, and that's a long list. I've heard that you can simply pull the DPF, mash out its guts and then reinstall it. That would leave an attachment point for the sensor harness which is currently tied up out of the way on my car. Maybe a consideration if passing inspection is a concern.
I'm over 2 years past the delete with absolutely zero regrets. My son runs a fleet of OTR trucks so I asked his advice ahead of doing the delete. He said they drive their trucks bone stock until the first hint of emissions problems then its straight pipe and tuner time. That's exactly what I did. I was eligible for the field measures but elected to just get it over with and do the delete. I'm currently sitting at 320,xxx km.
I'm over 2 years past the delete with absolutely zero regrets. My son runs a fleet of OTR trucks so I asked his advice ahead of doing the delete. He said they drive their trucks bone stock until the first hint of emissions problems then its straight pipe and tuner time. That's exactly what I did. I was eligible for the field measures but elected to just get it over with and do the delete. I'm currently sitting at 320,xxx km.
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 50
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
Not sure what you mean. The filter is inline in the exhaust. It comes out from underneath the car. I've never heard of anyone removing the DEF tank, if that's what you are referring to. I doubt it would be difficult but I don't see any point. Mine is likely pretty much full of solidified urea by now. I used BuzzKen hardware for my delete in conjunction with a Malone stage 1 tune. Its a very neat finished product - indistinguishable from factory unless the inspector absolutely knew what he was looking for. That's irrelevant in SK but I think you have mandatory inspections in ON so may be important. I added the BuzzKen cat converter - not sure if that was necessary but I did it anyway. I get a detectable diesel smell on startup but its a diesel - its supposed to smell like that. Its not even close to any other diesel I've owned, and that's a long list. I've heard that you can simply pull the DPF, mash out its guts and then reinstall it. That would leave an attachment point for the sensor harness which is currently tied up out of the way on my car. Maybe a consideration if passing inspection is a concern.
I'm over 2 years past the delete with absolutely zero regrets. My son runs a fleet of OTR trucks so I asked his advice ahead of doing the delete. He said they drive their trucks bone stock until the first hint of emissions problems then its straight pipe and tuner time. That's exactly what I did. I was eligible for the field measures but elected to just get it over with and do the delete. I'm currently sitting at 320,xxx km.
I'm over 2 years past the delete with absolutely zero regrets. My son runs a fleet of OTR trucks so I asked his advice ahead of doing the delete. He said they drive their trucks bone stock until the first hint of emissions problems then its straight pipe and tuner time. That's exactly what I did. I was eligible for the field measures but elected to just get it over with and do the delete. I'm currently sitting at 320,xxx km.
We have no emission testing in Ontario. I'm going with the stock delete tune. Maybe I should've went for stage 1 with more HP/Torque. I simply want the best fuel economy and I suppose the stock tune will be better on fuel since it produces less power (so it probably uses less fuel) than the stage 1.
Last edited by Potrice; May 19, 2026 at 11:48 AM.
ICBW but I think the Stage 1 tune is the stock HP version. I asked for no change in stock settings so perhaps I'm using the wrong terminology but I think we're talking about the same level of tune. I'm no exhaust guru so the balance of this may be unadulterated BS but .... I think my cat converter sits where the original DPF sat. I can't say I noticed any difference in fuel economy pre or post tune. I've seen a 5 handle on litres/100 km but typically on a long trip that runs down into the low 7s or high 6s. I get periodically frustrated with the overly complicated, needless Gemanic engineering BS that the car is polluted with but I absolutely love the mileage and it will effortlessly pass absolutely anything on the road, including fuel stations.
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 50
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
ICBW but I think the Stage 1 tune is the stock HP version. I asked for no change in stock settings so perhaps I'm using the wrong terminology but I think we're talking about the same level of tune. I'm no exhaust guru so the balance of this may be unadulterated BS but .... I think my cat converter sits where the original DPF sat. I can't say I noticed any difference in fuel economy pre or post tune. I've seen a 5 handle on litres/100 km but typically on a long trip that runs down into the low 7s or high 6s. I get periodically frustrated with the overly complicated, needless Gemanic engineering BS that the car is polluted with but I absolutely love the mileage and it will effortlessly pass absolutely anything on the road, including fuel stations.
Source = https://tunezilla.com/catalog/Merced...ecuAddOns=4173
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 50
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
I took the DPF off. Thanks to this guy's video. Great instructions on how to remove it step by step. The biggest pain was to remove the darn sensors.
Thanks for sharing Danny!
Excellent Video!
I have a 2012 ML350 Bluetec with about 136k miles.
The emissions recalls have all been done and everything is currently working.
I am retired on social security and not able to pay thousands of dollars for emissions repairs so I will likely be deleting when the time comes.
Unfortunately we have mandatory emissions testing every year (on a dyno) so I will need to find a way to transfer the title to a state without inspections to get around the testing. I hope Malone ships to the USA!
Excellent Video!
I have a 2012 ML350 Bluetec with about 136k miles.
The emissions recalls have all been done and everything is currently working.
I am retired on social security and not able to pay thousands of dollars for emissions repairs so I will likely be deleting when the time comes.
Unfortunately we have mandatory emissions testing every year (on a dyno) so I will need to find a way to transfer the title to a state without inspections to get around the testing. I hope Malone ships to the USA!
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There are no emissions repairs,.. Just repairs. The DPF will become clogged if any intercooler hose cracks or one of the sensors fails. With DPF deleted, if the intercooler hose cracks or one sensor fails...you will still need to make the repairs. Exactly the same money spent.
DPF is just a filter, it will be filled with ash if the engine produces ash. If you delete the DPF without repairing the engine, you will still have an defective engine.
Deleting DPF is 99% a scam, as the "tuner" gets the money from the client and from selling the DPF.
DPF is just a filter, it will be filled with ash if the engine produces ash. If you delete the DPF without repairing the engine, you will still have an defective engine.
Deleting DPF is 99% a scam, as the "tuner" gets the money from the client and from selling the DPF.
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 279
Likes: 50
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2013 ML350 Bluetec, 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible (sold)
There are no emissions repairs,.. Just repairs. The DPF will become clogged if any intercooler hose cracks or one of the sensors fails. With DPF deleted, if the intercooler hose cracks or one sensor fails...you will still need to make the repairs. Exactly the same money spent.
DPF is just a filter, it will be filled with ash if the engine produces ash. If you delete the DPF without repairing the engine, you will still have an defective engine.
Deleting DPF is 99% a scam, as the "tuner" gets the money from the client and from selling the DPF.
DPF is just a filter, it will be filled with ash if the engine produces ash. If you delete the DPF without repairing the engine, you will still have an defective engine.
Deleting DPF is 99% a scam, as the "tuner" gets the money from the client and from selling the DPF.
Sorry but you have the absolute wrong vehicle if you are trying to keep one running decades past warranty with no $$$ spent.
Get a Toyota or Honda and you will be much happier.
Get a Toyota or Honda and you will be much happier.


