Rough idle + CEL under hard acceleration
I took it to an indi shop and got the following stored codes:
20E1 - charge air coolant circuit, air temperature too high
200B - Right side CAT converter is insufficient
20A3 - Left side CAT converter is insufficient
2043 - multiple misfires
2047 - #6 cylinder misfire
Spark plugs were changed in 2020 at 60k miles and the car currently has around 83k miles.
Any thoughts on what could be causing these codes / rough idle (kind of feels like it's constantly misfiring)?



Cat codes may just be bad o2 sensors, they do go out of spec over time.
I had a single cylinder misfire that became more frequent over time (especially under hard accel), and I had to replace a coil pack.
Good luck, have fun!
**also, if the misfire goes away on restart and comes back after hard accel, that's what mine did when the coil pack was going out. The coil packs tend to die more on a time basis than a mileage basis from what I've read- the epoxy/insulating material in the coil begins to crack, leading to shorts or resistance changes that burn out the pack. I've seen estimates of 7-10 years before coil packs have issues.
The constant misfire is the coil pack deactivating the #6 cylinder spark plugs. It's not a misfire, but zero fire.
If your valve covers are leaking, replace those while you have the coil pack replaced. they'll leak oil into the spark plug well then up into the coil packs, given enough time.
Last edited by JustTXn; Jun 2, 2025 at 12:05 PM.
The car disables certain cylinders if it sees (through O2 sensors) that they are not combusting properly, however, if you're O2 sensor is faulty, it could disable cylinders whilst it shouldn't. The disablement of the cylinders end up as misfire codes on generic ODB scanners, but only show up as disabled to protect cats on Mercedes scanners.
I'd scan the car with a SDS setup and go from there.
If the car was already scanned using SDS, you might want to try and properly diagnose the O2 sensors. If those come out fine, check red sparkplug isolators, you can try the rental program at https://www.v12icpack.com/ to see if the coil pack or voltage transformer is starting to fail
The car disables certain cylinders if it sees (through O2 sensors) that they are not combusting properly, however, if you're O2 sensor is faulty, it could disable cylinders whilst it shouldn't. The disablement of the cylinders end up as misfire codes on generic ODB scanners, but only show up as disabled to protect cats on Mercedes scanners.
I'd scan the car with a SDS setup and go from there.
If the car was already scanned using SDS, you might want to try and properly diagnose the O2 sensors. If those come out fine, check red sparkplug isolators, you can try the rental program at https://www.v12icpack.com/ to see if the coil pack or voltage transformer is starting to fail
They thought it was a coil pack, and when they went to replace the pack they noticed that the pack was fine, but two spark plugs were covered in oil. He went ahead and replaced those two spark plugs and is going to take the car on a few lengthy test drives Monday and reevaluate.
He suggested that if the new plugs fix the problem, then just keep driving the car. The other option would be to do a compression test (which I'm thinking of doing just for peace of mind).
My question is, where is this oil coming from? The car does use a quart every 1000 to 1500 miles, but I have never noticed any smoke at start up / idle / or acceleration. Could the two plugs being covered in oil be the result of valve cover gaskets, or is this more likely a terminal condition like piston rings / valve guides?
Last edited by vinewanderer; Jun 7, 2025 at 11:20 AM.



My car was burning a quart every 1000 miles, then bumped up to a quart every 100-200 miles recently. My pet theory is turbo seals, been meaning to look at the intercoolers and see if they're oily inside.
I thought it may be a PCV issue as well, so i replaced my oil separator (drivers side of engine, between upper metal radiator neck and valve cover)... maybe a slight change, if any, in consumption. Then, my engine puked a large a mount of oil from the filler on a hard pull through a curve, so I figured there was a pcv leak/sealing issue there. Replaced the cap just last week, and I now have to exert some force to pull the oil fill cap off with the engine running from the (newly present) vacuum.
.... That is to say, I wonder how much turbo oil seals rely on help negative crankcase pressure?
I'll let you know if I see a difference in consumption, which would probably directly translate to fouling of plugs in the cylinder that's one of the closes to the actual throttle body mounting point.
Last edited by JustTXn; Jun 7, 2025 at 05:04 PM.
OP get your charge cooling pump working/replaced and be ready for the treat that is bleeding all the air from the charge cooling circuit.
Coil packs happen in 221 cars. Clark is a good resource.
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OP get your charge cooling pump working/replaced and be ready for the treat that is bleeding all the air from the charge cooling circuit.
Coil packs happen in 221 cars. Clark is a good resource.
I did not have to bleed my coolant circuit, what I did was top it up every day or two for about 2-3 weeks, would squeeze the upper soft coolant hose to burp any bubbles accumulated there. 62-68C iAT on moderate acceleration in 96F weather, AC on. Checked for bubbles by bleeding one of the nipples at the top of the circuit after a drive to check for aerated coolant.
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