mleskovar

The front passenger window makes a loud grinding noise when the window reaches its upper limit and you are holding the button down. The auto up feature does not work from either the passenger or driver door buttons. You must hold the buttons down for the window to raise all the way. The auto up feature from the key outside the car works but the loud noise happens when the passenger window reaches its upper limit. I tried the window synchronization but that didn't help. The noise is loud and sounds like a gear being forced and popping out of mesh.

mleskovar

Ooops, I meant to say pulling and holding the button up. I removed the door panel and watched it operate. There is a cable going into the motor mechanism with a spring around it at the housing. That spring compresses and releases when the noise/pop happens. The frequency of the noise is about once per second.

mercedestech2

One thing that would help a lot is to know what type of car we are discussing.

Kestas

I'll bet he drives a 2001 C320.

mleskovar

mercedestech2....it's listed in the post headers.

mercedestech2

Awesome, sorry new to the forums. Anyways, there are two common problems on 203 windows. If it is a scratching almost clicking sound then the clips that hold the window to the regulator probably need to be replaced. They are plastic and MB put out a DTB with an updated part the converts the mount to rubber to eliminate noise and provide a more reliable connection. This noise usually occurs and the top or bottom of window travel. The other problem is the regulator itself. This noise is more like hmm a whiring sound or it almost sounds like cable slipping. This noise happens on the middle part of the travel. Either one if not taken care of can and will leave your car riding down the road with one window down not moving. If your window does happen to fall and stay down, DO NOT keep trying to use the switch to make it go up. The regualtor can scratch the glass while it moves against it.

mleskovar

I looked through my work orders and found where a bracket 203-720-01-14 was replaced on the right rear window on 8/17/04. Is this the clip needed for all the windows? How can I tell if I look at the clips that attach the window to the regulator? I had the front passenger window motor 220-820-45-42 replaced on 2/20/04. Should the new mounts have been installed then?

mercedestech2

Yes, thats the part number. The front windows take two while the rear take one. If you plan on doing this get the clips either way, they're cheap. If only one rear window has been done, then if it were my car I would do the other 3 doors with clips. If it's still making noise after you do the clips, then go for the regulator. You have to remove the clips either way, whether you are replacing them or the regulator. Also, when you buy the clips they even come with a set of instructions on how to install them. The old clips will just look like a white plastic clip holding the window to the regulator and are rectangular. The new clips are black rubber and are round.

mleskovar

Thank You.

mleskovar

Put the updated window clips on and it still fails...intermittently, as before...then I resynch that window and it works for a while again. I found that once the auto up feature doesn't work if I inch the window up to close, then hold the button up to resynch it works, cometimes with the noise and sometimes without it. Attached is a picture with the spring....in the middle...that goes around a cable going into the motor and compresses and releases with the noise. 25k miles ago, 2/20/04 that window motor was replaced under warranty. It seems like the window is losing it's synch. The regulator mechanical parts seem to be working OK.

mleskovar

I hate it when I do that...

mercedestech2

If it's not the clips then it is most likely the regulator, haven't seen any other problems with theses windows. After you replace the regulator you're going to need to resynch the windows. Just unhook the battery, hold up on the sindow switchs at the top part of the travel for 2 seconds, and you'll need to synch the sunroof by holding forward, and synch the steering angle sensor by going lock to lock then to the middle. The spring assembly is part of the regulator.

mleskovar

Time to get out the rivet tool. It looks like the side airbag has to be removed to get at the top right rivet that holds the regulator to the door frame....correct? 6 rivets needed for the regulator and 3 for the airbag...correct?Any 'gotchas' or advice for this whole procedure?

mercedestech2

You're going to need 11 actually.. 3 for the airbag, 6 for the regulator, and 2 for the handle attachment. If you look on the door panel see where the handle screw go? That flat piece of metal with a bend in it, the bottom needs to be removed to provide enough room to pull the regulator out. Just please be sure to remove the key before going after the airbag. Otherwise, this repair should not be a problem. And just to let you know how much you are saving.. Each front door to install the window clips pays 1.6hr. Each rear door pays 1.3. One front regulator pays another 1.6 on top of removing the door panel. So add all this up, and if you do the clips on all four doors and one regulator you are saving yourself at LEAST $600. Congrats on doing your own repairs.

mleskovar

Thanks for the information. I enjoy saving money but I do it more for the satisfaction of fixing something....I like fixing things. I've repaired all my cars, motorcycles, washing machines, appliances, computers, etc. since 1962. I like knowing how things work. When I was in high school I wanted to be a car mechanic but was 'directed' into college and ended up in 'white collar' work. Sigh. "You can't always get what you want but if you try real hard you can get what you need."

mercedestech2

Thats fantastic. I was pointed in the college direction, went to UNC for an engineering degree, and then went to another school near Atlanta for Business Managment after getting bored with the Engineering thing. Never ended up getting either, both were entirely too boring for. So then one day I decided to jump into the auto industry as it was always changing. If you need anything else, let me know.

mleskovar

...the new regulator seems to have solved the problem. I disassembled the one I removed and couldn't see anything wrong with it.?? The only anomaly I could see was the motor only had 2 out of the three attachment screws going to the regulator (The motor was replaced 1 1/2 years ago by MB) but it was still solid. How did they take out the rivets without scratching the surrounding metal/paint? Or did they?

mercedestech2

Sometimes we get lucky and don't scratch anything. I'd say 80% of the rivets I take out do not leave any sign of me being there. The regulator cable is actually slipping on the wheel... or so we believe. I'm glad your problem is solved. Oh, and don't be surprised about the 2 screws holding the window motor in, thats all that came from the factory, perfectly solid and stable.

wnycec

During hot days, my window squeals when I raise or lower it. I believe from just the rubbing between the window and insulating rubber... any ideas of how to get rid of this squealing noise?