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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #1  
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2000 s430, 1992 Legend Coupe
Diy???????

Is there a DIY on changing the front brakes. I have a good idea on how to do it just want to double check. Also, I need a DIY on the compressor and relay switch and the repair kit for the front shock.

Is there a good repair manual for a 2000 s430?
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Got my repair kit, any techs out there ?
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Old Dec 8, 2005 | 11:49 PM
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From: HOUSTON, TX
'06 CLS55 P030
ft. airstruts

For the shocks the first thing u should know---special tool reqd. to R&I the new o-ring/plate. Do u have this? I will be difficult to perform this job unless u have this tool
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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 11:16 PM
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What is the name of the tool? (R & I ?)Could you provide me more information on this repair. I have access to a wide range of tools. The dealer only wants $220 to fix the leak on the drivers side front strut. But I would like to know how to fix it myself. I enjoy working on cars. (I am pretty sure not to far in the near future my pass strut will start to leak) I have done about 5 engine swaps in Acuras and my Ford work van among other things. The only problem I have is researching and finding the right information and helpful hints and insights as far as working on my MB. Not many DIY on this or other websites. Hopefully you or some of the other MB techs can help me. This would be a great DIY considering how common this problem is. Thanks in advance for your time and help
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 11:56 AM
  #5  
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The name? Its the ft. air shock tool...lol. I can get u the part # on Monday...I wouldent be suprised if it costs more than $200 bucks though. I will get back to you on the exacts. By the way, it has no other usefullness other than this particular repair. The labor to fix both ft. struts should be around 2-3 hrs max. R&I=remove and install. First support the car on a jack at normal ride height...but dont jack up...then u use a heat gun and heat the top of the shock in order to make it easier to chisel out that black wax substance. Then remove the air coupler-fitting (another spec. tool, but vice grips work o.k.) Then u install the shock tool as mentioned...it screws down on the upper 3 shock studs and acts as a bridge in order to press down the upper o-ring plate. Once this is pressed, u remove the c-clip and release the tool, remove the o-ring plate, use compressed air and clean the area. Be sure all the waxy stuff is removed completely so u dont damage the new o-ring during installation. Then u lube the area w/ the supplied grease, put the new o-ring plate into position and use the spec. tool to press it into place...it needs to be perfectly straight..hence the spec. tool..finally install the new c-clip and air coupler. I usually then will paint the area black to hide the chisel marks if any...and some people will put a bead of sealer around the new c-clip. I am experence in making tools work when a special tool is not present...but trust me..u need this one.
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 01:39 AM
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Thanks, this is going to help out alot. I have an idea what you're saying. Will the coupler just screw into the o-ring plate, if so how? Do you have any pictures for reference? What is the type of sealer you would use? After the install, does the airmatic pump it self up? I can see where the ft. shock tool would come in handy. I'll wait for pictures and part # for the tool. Thanks Russell
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:49 PM
  #7  
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Sorry, but you may be waiting awhile for pics....but for your info---the coupler screws into the top of the strut, you can see this under the hood clearly. The o-ring plate, which is what u will be replacing is located under all that black waxy subtance, in which you will need to remove (as stated previously). I will say this..some jobs are best left for the pros...especially low cost repairs like this. If you make a mistake..those struts are ballpark $900 each. But if you want to give it a shot...more power to ya, just be carefull. The sealer is not important..some use it..but I dont recomend it...as I always avoid using sealer unless required per work instructions. Anyway heres the part # for the spec tool 220-589-00-61-00. $208.75
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 12:06 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by 516mbtek
Sorry, but you may be waiting awhile for pics....but for your info---the coupler screws into the top of the strut, you can see this under the hood clearly. The o-ring plate, which is what u will be replacing is located under all that black waxy subtance, in which you will need to remove (as stated previously). I will say this..some jobs are best left for the pros...especially low cost repairs like this. If you make a mistake..those struts are ballpark $900 each. But if you want to give it a shot...more power to ya, just be carefull. The sealer is not important..some use it..but I dont recomend it...as I always avoid using sealer unless required per work instructions. Anyway heres the part # for the spec tool 220-589-00-61-00. $208.75

Thanks for your reply. I am a pro! Just kidding. I understand what your saying. I know this repair is more technique than being real complicated. I just want to make sure I have the details> Do you have access to the repair manual? If so,could you post or email me a copy of the repair manual for this? If you don't have the time, I understand. I will be starting this repair on the benz in about two or three weeks. I have to finish my tranny swap on my Acura and if time permits do body work and a paint job. By chance, could you give me a call . I will email you my phone number.

here's my acura LE'gend. She has a ways to go but I love this car!


this is her getting her type II transplant


type II

I do most of my repairs at my friends body shop. I have access to more tools there. His shop does paint and body for alot of the local car dealerships and insurance companys here in Raleigh, NC. (Leith Mercedes). He is going to help me with the strut repair.
Thanks for your help
ACTS238



What is the name of this part and what does it do?

Last edited by acts238; Dec 14, 2005 at 12:17 AM.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 09:00 PM
  #9  
516mbtek's Avatar
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From: HOUSTON, TX
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so u do know a thing or two.

hehe, u never know what the recipient of usefull info may do...I would feel partially resposible if someone took my advice and made a major boo-boo...or injured themself And you are absolutly right..its all about teqnique(and having the right tools). Ohh, we dont have manuals anymore...everything is online via a secure mb website. Anyway, I will see if I can get the work instruction....no promises...copywrite infringement? I will check w/ my attorney-lol. That part u pointed out is the purge valve. It is part of your evaporative emissions system. It purges the fuel vapor (and makes a clicking noise) from the fuel tank and directs it back into the intake manifold.
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:51 PM
  #10  
acts238's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 516mbtek
hehe, u never know what the recipient of usefull info may do...I would feel partially resposible if someone took my advice and made a major boo-boo...or injured themself And you are absolutly right..its all about teqnique(and having the right tools). Ohh, we dont have manuals anymore...everything is online via a secure mb website. Anyway, I will see if I can get the work instruction....no promises...copywrite infringement? I will check w/ my attorney-lol. That part u pointed out is the purge valve. It is part of your evaporative emissions system. It purges the fuel vapor (and makes a clicking noise) from the fuel tank and directs it back into the intake manifold.
Thanks. I heard the purge valve and was not sure what it was. Lately I have been listening for every little noise. Maybe I don't need to be so paranoid.
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Old Dec 16, 2005 | 08:16 PM
  #11  
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'06 CLS55 P030
Originally Posted by acts238
Thanks. I heard the purge valve and was not sure what it was. Lately I have been listening for every little noise. Maybe I don't need to be so paranoid.
I know how it is bro...no problem.
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