linh

the spring compressor on clk, slk and E-class?

mbtech208

Probably. But I value my life, so I use the recommended spring compressor tools.

linh

mbtech208...

How is this sound :

1) Place the hydrolic jack under the control arm
2) Remove the two screw holding the sway bar
3) remove the bottom shock screw
4) Remove the two inner control arm screws (front)
5) Release the hydrolic jack very slowly until the control arm is fully lower down to the botom
6) remove the spring

STKLAW

Hey, linh--I thought your guy was going to tell me where I could get $54 headlight rings. Have not heard anything.

KWiK

mbtech208,
what is the recommended tool? Is it the "Sir Tools" one you can buy at Performance Products or the very expensive one from "Klann" or some other brand? Would you happen to have a picture or link so we can see one?

linh

STKLAW...

I'm so sorry. I think maybe he's on vacation because he hadn't response back to me neither. But the next cheapest is $70 at http://autowerksexpress.com. The owner is Randall. give him a call. Just tell him that you talk to me and i said that it was for $70 a set. Or If you want, drop me an e-mail again and i'll send you back both seller email.

linh

KWIK...

Mercedes spring compressor cost around $900-$1000. It got two round plates. One plate spin near the top of spring and the other plate spin near the bottom of the spring. Then you have the BIG rod that goes in the middle of the two plates and when you spin the rod the two plates compressed the spring together. Then you just tilt and take out the spring.

KWiK

Thanks linh, but that part I knew. I was trying to find out which brand the dealers use. The only two brands I know of are the ones I mentioned above. I was just wondering if the dealers use one of those or some other brand.

dj-po

Harbor Freight Tools has them for $9.99 just bought a set two weeks ago.


John.

KWiK

Here is a video clip of the Hazet tool in action.

mbtech208

linh, by doing it your way, you disturb the lower control arm mounting bolts. This throws your alignment out of spec. So now you may have changed the spring by yourself, but you're still going to need a trip to the shop for an alignment. Also when you tighten those bolts back up, I hope you had the vehicle weight on the control arm, and not unloaded. If you tighten the control arm bushings when unloaded, as soon as you put weight on the control arm, the bushing twists and sometimes tears. Why not just spend the extra money and buy yourself a spring compressor? It's much safer than doing it your way, and you won't need an alignment afterwards. Food for thought.

linh

Mbtech208.......

I disagree with you on two things. The control arm bushing is going to twist any way as the suspension going up and down. No alignment is require when change spring with spring compressor? WRONG !!! Even when you change the spring with factory compressor, you still need to take your car in for an alignment my friend because you are now using a lower ride hieght spring all your camber/ caster is out of SPEC.(it called negative camber?).I have done about 4 FREE spring installation for Mercedes owner and i have not seen once tear yet but it a would advice to look for.

mbtech208

Let me clear this up. Look at a clock, and cut it in half vertically. 12 o'clock represents full suspension travel up, 6 o'clock is full suspension travel down, and 3 o'clock is normal, stationary vehicle weight. You're supposed to tighten the bushing with normal vehicle weight on the control arm, which would be the 3 o'clock position. This gives you room for the bushing to twist whether the wheel is going up or down. If you do it your way and tighten the bushing while the control arm is unloaded (6 o'clock), when you let the car down onto its own weight, the bushing twists to what SHOULD have been the full upward travel. Now any bumps you hit are causing the bushing to over-extend. Does that make sense?

And as far as the alignment issue goes, you never said you were putting lowering springs into the car. I thought you were using factory-replacement springs. I've said it before and I'll say it again. I don't install aftermarket components. I work at a dealership, using only parts that the car came from the factory with. By installing lowering springs, you will need an alignment due to the extra negative camber. BUT, if you replace the springs with genuine Mercedes springs, you will not need an alignment.

linh

mbtech208....

Thank you for clearing it up. Yes...i do have the hydrolic jack under the control arm holding it at 3 o'clock when i tight the control arm screw. That's funny that your dealer does not install aftermarket springs. That the first time i heard that. Do you meant that your dealer won't do aftermarket spring installation if the car is still under factory warranty? Or won't do it at all !!! I know alot of people have their dealer install aftermarket spring. Anyway, thank you...mbtech208.