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My central locking completely went out (no trunk release or lock/unlock via the remote or switches) so I replaced the vacuum pump. The pump was coded to the vehicle and works - I can lock/unlock the doors with the key as well as use the trunk release, and the inside truck release switch works as well, however I have the following problems now:
1. The driver door does not lock once I start driving, nor can I lock it using the locking button on the dash - using the lock button will lock/unlock the passenger door while driving, but the not the driver door
2. While driving I can't even physically push the lock down - it pops back up.
Does this sound like a problem with the replacement pump (defective perhaps), coding, or something else like a vacuum line or lock actuator?
One last thing - when the car is off and I lock the doors with the remote, the locks don't go down simultaneously like they used to - the passenger lock goes down first and is followed by the driver lock after a short delay (less than 1/2 second). I'm not sure if that means anything but I figured I should give as much info as possible.
Thanks in advance for any light that can be shed on this situation.
The PSE pump is defectivethe locks SHOULD work together...
Who coded the New PSE Pump?
Happy B day!
My mechanic coded it. So you're thinking the pump is defective and it's not a coding problem? That's what he thought and the stealer that the pump came from wouldn't take it back - gave some song and dance that the pump is working fine and that something else is to blame.
In the spirit of Easter, I'll resurrect this post. The solution to this problem was laughably simple and I'm surprised that a dealer and an independent mechanic were both unable to figure it out.
The vacuum lines for the right and left doors were switched on the PSE. That's it. I reversed them and everything worked the way it's supposed to.
The delayed driver door lock is how I figured it out. The locks should go down together, but that would mean the PSE has to suck one side harder (o_0) to compensate for the longer distance the vacuum needs to travel to get to the left side. If the right side goes down faster than the left when the car's off, and the passenger lock is the first to pop up when unlocked with the remote, the lines must be backwards.
If you're having central lock problems, check that everything is plugged in correctly. Don't assume!
In the spirit of Easter, I'll resurrect this post. The solution to this problem was laughably simple and I'm surprised that a dealer and an independent mechanic were both unable to figure it out.
The vacuum lines for the right and left doors were switched on the PSE. That's it. I reversed them and everything worked the way it's supposed to.
The delayed driver door lock is how I figured it out. The locks should go down together, but that would mean the PSE has to suck one side harder (o_0) to compensate for the longer distance the vacuum needs to travel to get to the left side. If the right side goes down faster than the left when the car's off, and the passenger lock is the first to pop up when unlocked with the remote, the lines must be backwards.
If you're having central lock problems, check that everything is plugged in correctly. Don't assume!
. Thank you I will check it out , since first the trunk quit opening from remote.. then the doors... -- CLSystem problem issue. --- this was furthest down on my list to fix, since I had no ideas why it just quit suddenly. So thanks again for the answers.
I have a similar problem as others on this thread but I really need some guidance! I have read so many excellent posts and printed off reams of guidance that I am now confused.
The problem: The roof of my 2001 W208 CLK 320 cabriolet will not open. Recently, with the engine running I started lowering the roof. Once the roof was in the trunk space with the rear cover still raised I started to move forward. The beeping and lamp flashing started, so I stopped moving whilst continuing to close the cover. I don’t recall why, but I tried to raise the roof, but nothing responded. I then followed the handbook instructions for closing and latching the roof manually.
I then unsuccessfully tried to open the roof normally using the console switch S84 thinking that any fault caused by moving forward too soon would reset the system. The windows lower as soon as the front of the roof is unlatched, but do not raise when I tried to close electronically, or after closing the roof manually.
I then tried to open the roof manually to be followed by a raising of the roof using the console switch S84. Nothing happened, so I did a manual closure, but this time the rear bow locked but would not latch properly leaving a half inch gap between the cover and the bow. Eventually after repeated turning the Allen key backwards and forwards the latch released.
Before getting to that point on closure the roof had slammed over onto the front windscreen frame. It has always done this in the 15 years that I have owned it (And I have always had to push up the front bow to initiate opening).
Fault Finding:
Following posts and attachments from Hawkwind, Klaus at Top Hydraulics and Serndipity this is what I know after removing the carpet lining in the trunk and the space into which the roof folds and the bottom angled panel covering the pump:
The fuses (In main fuse box and trunk fuse box) and the Roof hydraulic pump relay are OK. Tested the relay on the fuel pump.
The S84 indicator lamp (Ref 77.30) functions as follows:
Ignition on – lights for 1 sec continuous
Unlatch front bow – lights solid red: windows lower
Lift S84 flashes 1 Hz
Release S84 -solid red
Latch front – Light off
Push /close S84 - flashes 1 Hz : windows don’t raise, use window switches to raise.
Pull S84 with roof latched -flashes 3Hz
Raise S84 with roof latched - flashes >3hz (System malfunction)
Hydraulic oil at max level - no sign of leaks
Roll Over Bar /headrest switch lights up on ignition but doesn't raise the ROB. Headrests currently lowered.
Tried ROB reset by pushing upper half of switch for at least 8 secs until roll bar drive audibly engages then press lower half – No response.
When front bow unlatched, all windows lower, but when bow latched pressing console switch S84 doesn't raise windows.
Tried to reset by disconnecting/reconnecting battery. Then unlatched the front bow, windows lowered but no further action. However, when pressed S84 the windows raised. Tried again but could not repeat window raising.
Tried Top Module reset by turning ignition off then on 5 times with 10 sec pause between each cycle. No change.
Tried Soft top reset by turning ignition key to 0 then back to 2 . Nothing changed.
Checked the limit switch for the trunk luggage screen and with a multimeter have shown continuity when the switch is activated, I e when the screen is open, and no continuity when the screen is closed.
Both Roof tension wires have snapped at the rear bow end, although the roof has always required a push up when opening and slapped down when closing.
The Rear bow is still difficult to unlatch with the Allen key although no obvious signs of damage or corrosion.
Tested the rear bow microswitch with the multimeter and when the switch is closed there is continuity.
Used a screwdriver to move the cams from right to left. I was then able to continue with the Allen key pushing the piston fully retracting into the cylinder. I was then able to turn the Allen key anti-clockwise and the piston extended out of the cylinder and the cams moved. However, I could not shift the lock back using the Allen key alone. I had to use the screwdriver to start the process. So, assume the mechanism is jammed or faulty despite no obvious signs.
See 3 attached photos showing each stage.
Despite this I still cannot latch and lock the bow .
Questions:
Is the rear bow lock mechanism (rather than the hydraulics and microswitch) likely to be the problem and should it be replaced, but not the cylinder?
Is the piston extended from the cylinder when the bow is locked or unlocked? or vice versa?
Any pointers or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
01-31-2008, 07:05 PM
