Please help! 03 e500 wheel bearing
02-28-2009, 03:32 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Please help! 03 e500 wheel bearing
I'm trying to replace the front driver side wheel bearing on my 03 e500. I removed the brake caliper but couldn't take out the rotor. Do i have to use penetrating oil/lubricant and then use a sledge to remove the rotor? It's still a good rotor, so i don't want to break it.
My main frustration is that i couldn't remove the spindle clamp (for lack of a better term) that holds the bearing on the spindle. This is the clamp like thing you see when you remove the protective small wheel hub cover. I loosened the bolt on the clamp to open the clamp and even tried to spread it with a screw driver and pry it off with a large screw driver/small crow bar tool, but couldn't. Does anyone know if i need a special tool to remove it, or am i doing something wrong? And...i hope the bearing should simply slide off after i get that clamp off???
Thanks for the help!
Nik
My main frustration is that i couldn't remove the spindle clamp (for lack of a better term) that holds the bearing on the spindle. This is the clamp like thing you see when you remove the protective small wheel hub cover. I loosened the bolt on the clamp to open the clamp and even tried to spread it with a screw driver and pry it off with a large screw driver/small crow bar tool, but couldn't. Does anyone know if i need a special tool to remove it, or am i doing something wrong? And...i hope the bearing should simply slide off after i get that clamp off???
Thanks for the help!
Nik
02-28-2009, 11:34 PM
#2
Member
after loosening the allen bolt on the hub bearing screw the whole thing should just turn counter clockwise on spin off like a nut dont pry it , ,as for removing the rotor they can be a little hard at times to get off ,you can just remove the hub with the rotor if u want ,hope this helps ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
03-01-2009, 02:21 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
after loosening the allen bolt on the hub bearing screw the whole thing should just turn counter clockwise on spin off like a nut dont pry it , ,as for removing the rotor they can be a little hard at times to get off ,you can just remove the hub with the rotor if u want ,hope this helps ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Yea i did take out the hex screw but i think i need penetrating oil too. I was thinking of using a 2x4 but i quit since i couldnt get that nut/clamp thingy out anyways. Thanks for your help too!
03-07-2009, 02:55 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Changed it! The old parts was terrible - the outer bearing was made in Japan and was so loose. The inner bearing was worse - almost completely loose. The new bearing says it is made in Germany - gives me better faith in it. Everything was tight in the new bearing. So I did the reverse of installation and test drove it and handling is tight - like new on that side. The other side however felt a bit loose, but not bad. After I replace the tires, with some new ones next week, I'll see if I'll also have to replace that other side. Sorry I don't have pictures but I don't think pictures would help that much anyway, everything is plug and play and right in front of you.
So here's what I did in order:
1. removed connections to battery in back
2. removed connections to battery in front
3. removed the SBS connector on the SBS. On the top of the big black connector there is a black plastic lever, just pull up and it should come almost off. I just put a screw driver between it instead of trying to take it completely off.
4. loosened lug bolts and jacked the car up. I did not use the emergency brake for fear of the SBS. Use something behind/front of the rear wheels to make sure it doesnt move.
5. removed the lug bolts and wheel.
6. removed the 2 caliper bolts that hold the entire caliper (not the bolts on the caliper). You have to get to these from behind. It's a 19 mm and you need a 1/2" ratchet. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a small pipe at the end, but it was hell taking them off.
7. remove the caliper - will need a large screw driver to pry it off using the middle of the rotor slots as a pry position.
8. being scared - I used a small socket to input between the brake pads in case the SBS turned on - but I'm sure it wouldn't.
9. use rope/bungee cord to support the brake caliper to the upper control arm from hanging around. Make sure you do this!
10. use "PB Blaster" and spray in lug nut holes and from behind to help get rust from rotor off.
11. loosen the bolt that holds/positions the rotor to the hub. It's a T30.
12. after 15 mins use a small piece of 2x4 on the front of the rotor and use a heavy hammer and bang on the rotor with good hits.
This should pop it right off.
13. remove the 2" round hub cover using a screw driver and tapping it out in the crease using a hammer. Go around the hub cover every tap to get it off easier.
14. Now you will see a clamp/nut with a bolt. This bolt is also a T30 and loosen it. You cant get it all the way out - so don't try and you don't need to.
15. then spin the nut/clamp counter clockwise to loosen. You will need a large wrench (I didn't have the right size so i used adjustable pliers).
16. After the nut comes off, the wheel bearing will come right off.
Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you connect the SBS before you reconnect any of the batteries.
So here's what I did in order:
1. removed connections to battery in back
2. removed connections to battery in front
3. removed the SBS connector on the SBS. On the top of the big black connector there is a black plastic lever, just pull up and it should come almost off. I just put a screw driver between it instead of trying to take it completely off.
4. loosened lug bolts and jacked the car up. I did not use the emergency brake for fear of the SBS. Use something behind/front of the rear wheels to make sure it doesnt move.
5. removed the lug bolts and wheel.
6. removed the 2 caliper bolts that hold the entire caliper (not the bolts on the caliper). You have to get to these from behind. It's a 19 mm and you need a 1/2" ratchet. I used a 3/8" ratchet with a small pipe at the end, but it was hell taking them off.
7. remove the caliper - will need a large screw driver to pry it off using the middle of the rotor slots as a pry position.
8. being scared - I used a small socket to input between the brake pads in case the SBS turned on - but I'm sure it wouldn't.
9. use rope/bungee cord to support the brake caliper to the upper control arm from hanging around. Make sure you do this!
10. use "PB Blaster" and spray in lug nut holes and from behind to help get rust from rotor off.
11. loosen the bolt that holds/positions the rotor to the hub. It's a T30.
12. after 15 mins use a small piece of 2x4 on the front of the rotor and use a heavy hammer and bang on the rotor with good hits.
This should pop it right off.
13. remove the 2" round hub cover using a screw driver and tapping it out in the crease using a hammer. Go around the hub cover every tap to get it off easier.
14. Now you will see a clamp/nut with a bolt. This bolt is also a T30 and loosen it. You cant get it all the way out - so don't try and you don't need to.
15. then spin the nut/clamp counter clockwise to loosen. You will need a large wrench (I didn't have the right size so i used adjustable pliers).
16. After the nut comes off, the wheel bearing will come right off.
Installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure you connect the SBS before you reconnect any of the batteries.
