How To: Replace IC Pump on V12 TT - Pic Heavy
05-27-2009, 12:24 PM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
How To: Replace IC Pump on V12 TT - Pic Heavy
Well, I replaced my IC pump this weekend and thought I would share the procedure. I don’t know if this will benefit anyone, but I hope it does. I do want to note that this is just how I did it, and there may be a better or easier way out there…however, this swap only took me about 45 minutes.
As a note, this is for a V12 only, I do not know if/what the difference will be for a V8 car.
Tools:
Ratchet (required)
8mm socket (required)
10mm socket (required)
13mm socket (required)
Flat screwdriver (required)
Hose pinch tool (optional)
Soldering iron (optional)
Valve stem removal tool (optional)
Wire cutters (optional)
Parts:
IC Pump – Johnson CM30P7-1 12 volt (required)
Distilled water or coolant (required)
2ea – 2ft by 3/8” fuel line (optional)
Step 1 – Remove Belly Pan:
First, put the car on ramps or something to elevate the front and set the parking brake and block the back tires for safety! Then, get under the car and remove the eight 8mm bolts on the front most belly pan. Next remove the two 13mm bolts that go through both belly pans. After than, open both “trap doors” that allow access to the fog lights (so you can grip the pan) and slide it forward. Once you do that, the rear of the pan will be free and you can slide the pan back and the place it out of your way.
Step 2 – Pump Removal:
Now you can use two hose pinch tools (I just used two clamps) and pinch off both lines going to the IC pump. You don’t have to do this…but it’s pretty messy without them. Then loosen both hose clamps with the screwdriver. Then unplug the pump from the car. You will probably have to cut the vent tube going to the IC pump, unless it just slides off for you. Then remove the single 10mm bolt holding the pump on. You can now remove the pump completely from the car.
Step 3 – Remove/Replace Electrical Plug (optional):
Ok, this step is kind of up to you, but I recommend doing it. First, you will need to take the pump apart, start by removing the 6 torx screws on the pump and then take it apart. Then you will need to use the wire cutters to snip the electrical connector’s internal wires and the two pins on the outside holding it on. Once you have it removed, you can solder the wires of your new pump to the old connector. I recommend using heat shrink on the connections after they are soldered. If you do not want to do this, you will need to connect the wiring your own way. I suppose you could use wire splices, etc…but I did not want to trust those for this application.
Step 4 – Replace Pump:
Basically this is the Step 2 repeated in reverse. The only difference will be the clamp on the new pump. If you will put the supplied clamp on the pump you can use one of the holes secure it to the car with your factory 10mm bolt.
Step 5 – Replace Belly Pan:
Again, this will be Step 1 repeated in reverse.
Step 6 – Bleed the System:
Ok, I have been informed that this is supposed to be done at a dealership with a special tool. I didn’t take it to the dealer, and I believe it is properly bled. First, back the car off the ramps and then put the ramps in the rear of the car, so it has a very significant nose down attitude. Then remove the radiator cap at the rear of the engine, and then remove the two “valve stems” from the two Schraeder valves near the cap. I used a cut coke bottle and pressed it into the filler, it had a nice snug fit. Then put the two 3/8” fuel lines over the valves and run them into the coke bottle. At this time, fill the coke bottle most of the way full with either distilled water or coolant and then start the car. Let the car idle for a while, and when the pump turns on, you should see fluid flow from the fuel lines into the coke bottle. Let the car run until there are no more bubbles in the water. Keep adding water as necessary to fill the system. Once that is done, you’ll need to have someone help you. They will need to keep the coke bottle full as you remove the fuel lines and replace the valve stems. Then, remove the coke bottle and cap the system. You should be done at this point and ready to drive!
Questions, comments, suggestions??
As a note, this is for a V12 only, I do not know if/what the difference will be for a V8 car.
Tools:
Ratchet (required)
8mm socket (required)
10mm socket (required)
13mm socket (required)
Flat screwdriver (required)
Hose pinch tool (optional)
Soldering iron (optional)
Valve stem removal tool (optional)
Wire cutters (optional)
Parts:
IC Pump – Johnson CM30P7-1 12 volt (required)
Distilled water or coolant (required)
2ea – 2ft by 3/8” fuel line (optional)
Step 1 – Remove Belly Pan:
First, put the car on ramps or something to elevate the front and set the parking brake and block the back tires for safety! Then, get under the car and remove the eight 8mm bolts on the front most belly pan. Next remove the two 13mm bolts that go through both belly pans. After than, open both “trap doors” that allow access to the fog lights (so you can grip the pan) and slide it forward. Once you do that, the rear of the pan will be free and you can slide the pan back and the place it out of your way.
Step 2 – Pump Removal:
Now you can use two hose pinch tools (I just used two clamps) and pinch off both lines going to the IC pump. You don’t have to do this…but it’s pretty messy without them. Then loosen both hose clamps with the screwdriver. Then unplug the pump from the car. You will probably have to cut the vent tube going to the IC pump, unless it just slides off for you. Then remove the single 10mm bolt holding the pump on. You can now remove the pump completely from the car.
Step 3 – Remove/Replace Electrical Plug (optional):
Ok, this step is kind of up to you, but I recommend doing it. First, you will need to take the pump apart, start by removing the 6 torx screws on the pump and then take it apart. Then you will need to use the wire cutters to snip the electrical connector’s internal wires and the two pins on the outside holding it on. Once you have it removed, you can solder the wires of your new pump to the old connector. I recommend using heat shrink on the connections after they are soldered. If you do not want to do this, you will need to connect the wiring your own way. I suppose you could use wire splices, etc…but I did not want to trust those for this application.
Step 4 – Replace Pump:
Basically this is the Step 2 repeated in reverse. The only difference will be the clamp on the new pump. If you will put the supplied clamp on the pump you can use one of the holes secure it to the car with your factory 10mm bolt.
Step 5 – Replace Belly Pan:
Again, this will be Step 1 repeated in reverse.
Step 6 – Bleed the System:
Ok, I have been informed that this is supposed to be done at a dealership with a special tool. I didn’t take it to the dealer, and I believe it is properly bled. First, back the car off the ramps and then put the ramps in the rear of the car, so it has a very significant nose down attitude. Then remove the radiator cap at the rear of the engine, and then remove the two “valve stems” from the two Schraeder valves near the cap. I used a cut coke bottle and pressed it into the filler, it had a nice snug fit. Then put the two 3/8” fuel lines over the valves and run them into the coke bottle. At this time, fill the coke bottle most of the way full with either distilled water or coolant and then start the car. Let the car idle for a while, and when the pump turns on, you should see fluid flow from the fuel lines into the coke bottle. Let the car run until there are no more bubbles in the water. Keep adding water as necessary to fill the system. Once that is done, you’ll need to have someone help you. They will need to keep the coke bottle full as you remove the fuel lines and replace the valve stems. Then, remove the coke bottle and cap the system. You should be done at this point and ready to drive!
Questions, comments, suggestions??
Last edited by FormulaZR; 05-27-2009 at 12:29 PM.
