If you have a Mercedes oil question, read this FAQ
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Charleston, SC
GL450
Sorry, that's a typo, it should say "Why can I find 5w30 in bulk, but not 0w40". I have never seen this oil in 5 quart jugs or 6 quart cases at Costco or Walmart. The other, cheaper oils they sell in bulk, not the 0W-40.
Last edited by saintz; Sep 30, 2011 at 03:54 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Charleston, SC
GL450
I had a specific answer to this in the write up. It does not matter where you live or the temperature. You should still use the recommended oil and weight. Check the manual to find what that is for your model/year.
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From: Gulf Coast but not Florida
GLK350, SL63 AMG
Ten quart cases 0-40
If the dealer uses a sucker to drain the oil why can't they do the same with the 5 speed lifetime transmission that never needs a fluid change. BS.
On the AMG I always have dealer change the oil for warranty considerations, there is an MB brand filter, and to show a service trail. My dealer charges me for the crush washer and new screw. Too cheap to invest in a sucker? They try to charge extra for the zero oil because "the AmG takes more oil than the regular M113 engine."
Many dealers will try to charge you extra for the 0-40 oil. They stock 5-40 oil because
it is cheaper to them in bulk, lumpenproleteriat don't believe zero viscosity is good
, you make up a reason.
Last edited by grane; Oct 25, 2011 at 07:42 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Charleston, SC
GL450
One found many Napa, Autozone, etc and Mobil promotions on these cases this past spring and summer so I stocked up with an effective cost of $4.99 Q. For a time you could get your choice of filter as a freebee with the case. One had to call around for the fleece Mann aka MB.
If the dealer uses a sucker to drain the oil why can't they do the same with the 5 speed lifetime transmission that never needs a fluid change. BS.
On the AMG I always have dealer change the oil for warranty considerations, there is an MB brand filter, and to show a service trail. My dealer charges me for the crush washer and new screw. Too cheap to invest in a sucker? They try to charge extra for the zero oil because "the AmG takes more oil than the regular M113 engine."
Many dealers will try to charge you extra for the 0-40 oil. They stock 5-40 oil because it is cheaper to them in bulk, lumpenproleteriat don't believe zero viscosity is good, you make up a reason.
If the dealer uses a sucker to drain the oil why can't they do the same with the 5 speed lifetime transmission that never needs a fluid change. BS.
On the AMG I always have dealer change the oil for warranty considerations, there is an MB brand filter, and to show a service trail. My dealer charges me for the crush washer and new screw. Too cheap to invest in a sucker? They try to charge extra for the zero oil because "the AmG takes more oil than the regular M113 engine."
Many dealers will try to charge you extra for the 0-40 oil. They stock 5-40 oil because
it is cheaper to them in bulk, lumpenproleteriat don't believe zero viscosity is good, you make up a reason.You actually can drain the 5 speed tranny with an extractor, as well. It will get the majority out, especially if you extract and then let the valve body drip and then re-extract. All that will be left is a thin layer that you can remove from the pan with a towel. I always drain the 722.6 tranny with the extractor. If the filter is old, I then drop the nearly-empty pan and replace the filter. Otherwise, I just refill the oil - easy enough.
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From: Dix Hills, New York
2012 C250 Coupe
I think one of the big problems that people are having is that there are TWO different types of Mobil 1 5w-40 oils available, one is made to conform to 229.51 diesel spec and has ESP additive. The other is made to conform to 229.5 spec and does NOT have ESP additive. My 2009 c300 w204 calls for Mobil 1 5w-40 229.5 spec oil (since its a gas M272 engine). Here is the product page:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...a_M_5W-40.aspx
The problem is, only dealers have access to this special oil in the U.S. and they are not sold to the public in individual quart sizes (to my knowledge). The dealers buy them up in big drums. I am unsure if dealers carry individual quart bottles - will have to check.
So this leaves a problem for those DIY oil changers. The solution is to simply use Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. It also complies with 229.5 spec and is perfectly fine for use in modern benz gasoline engines (such as the M272 in my 2009 w204). The main difference is that the 0w-40 is good in colder climates, and the 5w-40 is better in warmer climates, in my experience.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...a_M_5W-40.aspx
The problem is, only dealers have access to this special oil in the U.S. and they are not sold to the public in individual quart sizes (to my knowledge). The dealers buy them up in big drums. I am unsure if dealers carry individual quart bottles - will have to check.
So this leaves a problem for those DIY oil changers. The solution is to simply use Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. It also complies with 229.5 spec and is perfectly fine for use in modern benz gasoline engines (such as the M272 in my 2009 w204). The main difference is that the 0w-40 is good in colder climates, and the 5w-40 is better in warmer climates, in my experience.
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From: Albuquerque
'10 CL550, '12 GL550
There is no Mobil 1 5W-40 to 229.5 only. For that, it's 0W-40
ESP = emissions system protection and is NOT an additive. Rather it's lack of ash content. This is 229.51
The 5W-40 oil dealers are putting in ALL engines is the 229.51 oil--dealers have pneumatic-powered automatic oil dispensers that can accomodate one grade only. There's no "selector." 229.51 does not hurt gas engines. 229.5 indeed hurts diesel particulate filters.
ESP = emissions system protection and is NOT an additive. Rather it's lack of ash content. This is 229.51
The 5W-40 oil dealers are putting in ALL engines is the 229.51 oil--dealers have pneumatic-powered automatic oil dispensers that can accomodate one grade only. There's no "selector." 229.51 does not hurt gas engines. 229.5 indeed hurts diesel particulate filters.
Last edited by lkchris; Dec 19, 2011 at 05:03 PM.
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2018 BMW 540d
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From: Charleston, SC
99 ML 320, 97 Porsche 993 C2S, 92 300E
0W-20 oil
I know this is an old thread but I thought I might still be able to get some good information.
I have a few different older MB's and have used Mobil 1 20W-50 in all including an air cooled Porsce. While the oils I use may or may not be recommended all vehicle are 21 to 15 or so years old and still run great.
My question is what if any substaintial difference is there between. 0w-20 and 0W-40. I have a new 4runner with 4L six cylinder with a manual that recommends 0W-20, but says "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditons.
Would the Mobil 1 version of 0W-40 be of higher quality than their 0w-20?
I've taken a little bit of a bashing on BITOG webforum for having the audacity to not blindly us 0W-20. I am of course no expert on oil, but have many years experience working on cars. When I've drained oil with these thin synthtic oils it comes out like water. I can only imagine how thin the 0w-20 will be. It just seem that living in a hot humid environment where it get to be over 100 degrees F and rarely below freezing that a 0w-20 would be uncalled for. Maybe has something to do with mileage and marketing.
In fact the Austrialian overs manual for this engine recommends other oil weights.
I have a few different older MB's and have used Mobil 1 20W-50 in all including an air cooled Porsce. While the oils I use may or may not be recommended all vehicle are 21 to 15 or so years old and still run great.
My question is what if any substaintial difference is there between. 0w-20 and 0W-40. I have a new 4runner with 4L six cylinder with a manual that recommends 0W-20, but says "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditons.
Would the Mobil 1 version of 0W-40 be of higher quality than their 0w-20?
I've taken a little bit of a bashing on BITOG webforum for having the audacity to not blindly us 0W-20. I am of course no expert on oil, but have many years experience working on cars. When I've drained oil with these thin synthtic oils it comes out like water. I can only imagine how thin the 0w-20 will be. It just seem that living in a hot humid environment where it get to be over 100 degrees F and rarely below freezing that a 0w-20 would be uncalled for. Maybe has something to do with mileage and marketing.
In fact the Austrialian overs manual for this engine recommends other oil weights.
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From: Gulf Coast but not Florida
GLK350, SL63 AMG
Current promotion at Advance Auto Parts has M1 0-40 in 5 quart jugs. They usually will swap the m1 filter (now claimed to be synthetic fleece) with the OEM Mann filter if that is required for your engine.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: ATX
2004 CLK 320, 07 Yukon SLT, 05 R6raven
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 63
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From: SoCal
w210 E55, w124 wagon
Currently at the stealership and my SA states they are using 5-40 (no 0-40 is even stocked) for my A service. With the 5-40 already in my engine, would it be safe to drive unitl my next service interval or should i replace the 5-40 with 0-40 earlier?
BTW, the ONLY reason i am using the services at the dealer is to "renew" the benefits of the "free" roadside assistance. I was told that if you are not the original owner of your benz, you need to service your car at the dealership (minimum of $100) to continue receiving benefits at no charge.
BTW, the ONLY reason i am using the services at the dealer is to "renew" the benefits of the "free" roadside assistance. I was told that if you are not the original owner of your benz, you need to service your car at the dealership (minimum of $100) to continue receiving benefits at no charge.
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2011 GL450
Check your manual to see what your engine needs
This is a good post with some good info, however not all of it is accurate. The oil spec sheet that your vehicle requires is determined by which engine you have. Read your maintenance manual, determine your engine type (272,273, 278, 642, etc...) and look at the sheet number called for. A simple google search will turn up the MB sheet for your vehicle. It will list all the approved oils for that engine. The assumption that only 0w-40 will work is simply not true. There are a range of oils from various manufacturers on sheet 229.5 that range from 0w-30, 0w40, 5w30, to 5w-40. Not picking nits or trying to flame an informative post, just want to get the right info out there.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Mercedes Benz c250 sedan
c250 sedan, oil change
Hey folks, i changed my engine oil an filter, using the 0w40 recommended everywhere but when i start up the engine (when cold) it has an annoying sound and a little of rattle until it warms up. Any idea what could it cause this? Btw i owned a c250 turbo 2012
help please benz enthusiasts!!
help please benz enthusiasts!!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 342
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From: NJ
E300-4matic
What weight oil, what brand, etc, it really makes little difference
Having rebuilt engines and done just about everything one can do to an engine besides blow it up the man who wrote all these "must do's" and "should not do's" etc., when it comes to MB engines doesn't really know much about engines in general. Firstly, even if you just open the manual it will tell you there are several different weight oils you can use in your car. Firstly, in the summer a good quality synthetic 10w-40 is really your best best considering that a 10w-40 weight oil used during the summer months, if you send it out to a lab and have it analyzed you will see the actual weight of the oil averages around 30 weight, so much for multi-vis oil, same in the winter, the 10w-30 is closer to straight weight 30w oil. As anyone who's ever owned a MB will tell you, MB are the all knowing ones, just ask them and they'll be happy to tell you. Forgetting the warranty for a moment, if you just used regular non-synthetic motor oil, say straight 40w weight oil in the summer and 30w weight oil in the winter and changed it every 5,000 miles your car will last just as long, synthetic oil doesn't possess some magic compound in it that makes it head over heels better than regular old dino oil. I ran 20w-50 weight regular weight oil in a 6.2 litre GM block marine engine for 7 years and never had a days problem and believe me engines in boats work much harder than they do in cars. Having shared my real life experiences, I will now make way for all the people that know very little about engines but will try to scare the hell out of you lest you do anything that MB hasn't blessed.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 604
Likes: 51
LS400
Having rebuilt engines and done just about everything one can do to an engine besides blow it up the man who wrote all these "must do's" and "should not do's" etc., when it comes to MB engines doesn't really know much about engines in general. Firstly, even if you just open the manual it will tell you there are several different weight oils you can use in your car. Firstly, in the summer a good quality synthetic 10w-40 is really your best best considering that a 10w-40 weight oil used during the summer months, if you send it out to a lab and have it analyzed you will see the actual weight of the oil averages around 30 weight, so much for multi-vis oil, same in the winter, the 10w-30 is closer to straight weight 30w oil. As anyone who's ever owned a MB will tell you, MB are the all knowing ones, just ask them and they'll be happy to tell you. Forgetting the warranty for a moment, if you just used regular non-synthetic motor oil, say straight 40w weight oil in the summer and 30w weight oil in the winter and changed it every 5,000 miles your car will last just as long, synthetic oil doesn't possess some magic compound in it that makes it head over heels better than regular old dino oil. I ran 20w-50 weight regular weight oil in a 6.2 litre GM block marine engine for 7 years and never had a days problem and believe me engines in boats work much harder than they do in cars. Having shared my real life experiences, I will now make way for all the people that know very little about engines but will try to scare the hell out of you lest you do anything that MB hasn't blessed.
Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 134
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From: Danville, CA
GLS450
Q: How often should I change my oil?
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
A: Check your manual.
The following applies to FSS cars: If your car is 1998 or newer, it should have Flexible Service System (FSS). This means the car will alert you (on the gauge cluster) when it needs the oil changed (generally every 10k miles or 1 year, but this varies). Oil needs to be changed generally because either the filter is full of particulates, there is too much particulate in the oil that is too small to be filtered, or the oil/additive package has degraded.
Best advice is to change at 10k or earlier depending on your local conditions, i.e. heat, dust, how you work the engine, etc. I would agree that 3k/3 months no longer applies and 5k/6 mo is not necessary for most people. But 10k/12 months is the outer limit. Of course the BMW module sometimes exceeds even this benchpost
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 783
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From: PA
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Lots of lame info from the OP on this thread.
Simple MB engines can run on ANY oil in the store, given the proper climate and change interval.
I go as far as to say 2 changes of "dino" oil will work better than 1 change of "synth" oil over the same period. That is, 6 months instead of a year or 5000 miles instead of 10,000. Slightly better chemistry of synth oil is no substiture for physically draining out contaminates and putting new oil in that has fresh friction modifiers. Extended drains are for new or difficult to service exotics. If you can and do change your own oil at 5000 miles, wth would you spend double on the oil to do the exact same job? I think young guys with only one car have a different perspective than someone with a lot of cars doing this service over decades. I've used 100s of jugs of oil. No way would I spend $45 a pop for LLubro Moly or Motul or whatever just for bragging rights.
Most any 10w-40, especially HM oils like MaxLife or Pennzoil or Mobil Clean are much better than even the synth oils from when these engines were built.
How about a premium HDEO 10w-30? https://www.texacodelo.com/en-eu/pro...XLE10W-30.html Does anyone really think an oil this good is going to harm an ancient V6? If someone says yes, it's out of ignorance.
I will stop back here and complete my post later.
Simple MB engines can run on ANY oil in the store, given the proper climate and change interval.
I go as far as to say 2 changes of "dino" oil will work better than 1 change of "synth" oil over the same period. That is, 6 months instead of a year or 5000 miles instead of 10,000. Slightly better chemistry of synth oil is no substiture for physically draining out contaminates and putting new oil in that has fresh friction modifiers. Extended drains are for new or difficult to service exotics. If you can and do change your own oil at 5000 miles, wth would you spend double on the oil to do the exact same job? I think young guys with only one car have a different perspective than someone with a lot of cars doing this service over decades. I've used 100s of jugs of oil. No way would I spend $45 a pop for LLubro Moly or Motul or whatever just for bragging rights.
Most any 10w-40, especially HM oils like MaxLife or Pennzoil or Mobil Clean are much better than even the synth oils from when these engines were built.
How about a premium HDEO 10w-30? https://www.texacodelo.com/en-eu/pro...XLE10W-30.html Does anyone really think an oil this good is going to harm an ancient V6? If someone says yes, it's out of ignorance.
I will stop back here and complete my post later.
