My tandem pump is puking fluid. Has anyone rebuilt these pumps? I've read other threads where all people that responded say that the kits aren't available. I have found and ordered a rebuild kit (http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/mebeabcpusek.html). I'm an MB tech so the re+re won't be a problem, I'm just trying to see is if there are any special tools required to rebuild the pump or if anyone has attempted the feat. Any advice from someone with experience would be appreciated!

 

I removed the pump this weekend. Turns out that the pump's "reservoir" cover has a crack in it (very common from what I've read on this site.) I have found the new part for $35. http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/mebeabcpurec.html Has anyone removed the flange that the pulley bolts to? I have tried using a puller but it is extremely tight. Is it threaded? Does anyone know? I'd like to repair this $1600 pump for $35 and am so close

 

Holy crap, this thread has monster potential. Sorry, had to bump/comment. Subscribed for sure!

 

Yes, this could be very informative.

 

please keep us updated. thanks. i've spoke to people who were trying to rebuild their pumps, but never got the results.

 

I've been pretty busy @ work but I called the company that sells the parts and does the rebuilds. The flange which holds the pulley on is pressed not threaded on. Hopefully I'll get a chance to get some heat onto it while using a puller to pull it off. I'll let you all know. Nothing to lose if I don't succeed

 

I had a pump that was leaking like a sieve from behind the flange. I assumed it was a blown seal but maybe it was the reservoir.

 

My pump had absolutely no leak and all of a sudden expelled all of the fluid in the ABC system. Anything that I poured in was on the driveway within 2 minutes. It definitely wasn't a slow leak. If this happened to you, it's a pretty good sign that it was the "reservoir" that was leaking. Usually seal leaks develop over time. Still haven't had a chance to get to the pump hahah. I'll take some pics just in case the repair is successful.

 

I got back on it, for a few minutes, and heated the flange up. It took a lot of heat (basically glowing red) and a high quality puller but I got the flange off. I then tapped off the "reservoir". After further inspection, I noticed that 1 of the valves (8mm allen bolt) had come loose and backed itself off, causing it to hit the housing ("reservoir.") The allen bolt is spring loaded. Because of the constant hammering action against the thin tin housing, a small crack appeared causing my catastrophic breakdown. I have all of the seals, just waiting for the $35 part to arrive from California before I can put it back together. I took pictures and will be uploading them.

 

sounds great so far. what do they charge for a rebuilt pump?

 

Great success! The night before re-assembly, I put the pump in the freezer so that there would be a greater disparity between the heated up flange and the shaft. The next morning I installed my shiny new pump "reservoir" cover and heated up the flange to an almost glowing red hot temp. It dropped on but a bit too far. I then used to puller to pull the flange to a point where it was flush with the shaft. I installed the pump, bled the system, performed a rodeo and found no leaks/abnormal noises. $35 for the front of the pump cover, $69 for a gasket set and some fluid. I also changed the filter, for preventative maintenance purposes. Better than $1600 for a new pump

 

some pics

 

more pics

 

Biker: I just saw your question. My cost on a new pump is $1600+tax from a dealer. I have found rebuilt pumps from reputable places w/ 1yr warranty online for around $700+tax.

 

Can you share the "reputable places" where you found the rebuilt pumps. My indie yesterday told me I need a new pump for my '04 S55.

 

My pump just dumped all my oil on my garage floor. Ordered a rebuilt one today for $675.00 on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-MERCEDES...item43a2024dfc

from Buy Auto Parts in SD. Has 1 year warranty. We'll see.

 

My indy mechanic recently replaced the pump with a rebuilt one that the customer supplied. It lasted 2 months and the customer was back screaming at him saying he installed it wrong causing the leak. He demanded his money back. Last I heard the indie mechanic told him to **** off and get out of there.

R.K.

 

SO I just want to find out if everything is working fine few months later, and the problem was that 8mm allen bolt. I have one bolt loose, the reservoir is fine. My concern is is this shut off valve, that allows the fluid to flow into the pump and shuts off. I will attach a picture. there is a small hole, and it stays like that, and I think it is not supposed to because when the pump is building the pressure, this small hole allows the fluid to go back into the fluid tank, that's why the pressure from the pump is low, at least in my case, around 10 bar, when actually it should be over 150 bar when I test it. When the valve opens and lets the fluid into the pump there is a big opening on the same shaft, just a few mm to the right as u look at the picture. My theory is that this valve is not retracting completely (which would be to the right as u look at it now). What do u think about this.
thanks

 

SO I just want to find out if everything is working fine few months later, and the problem was that 8mm allen bolt. I have one bolt loose, the reservoir is fine. My concern is is this shut off valve, that allows the fluid to flow into the pump and shuts off. I will attach a picture. there is a small hole, and it stays like that, and I think it is not supposed to because when the pump is building the pressure, this small hole allows the fluid to go back into the fluid tank, that's why the pressure from the pump is low, at least in my case, around 10 bar, when actually it should be over 150 bar when I test it. When the valve opens and lets the fluid into the pump there is a big opening on the same shaft, just a few mm to the right as u look at the picture. My theory is that this valve is not retracting completely (which would be to the right as u look at it now). What do u think about this.
thanks

 

I've just finished rebuilding my tandem pump, it turned out that one of the piston bolts had become lose, this cracked the cover/oil sump for the pump abc side.
There's all sorts of stuff saying pump only has three bolts holding it etc, there are 4!
The biggest part of the job which removing the pulley took me almost 4 hours.
I fixed the cracked cover by tug welding it, had to preheat the cover first to remove oil from the crack, but worked out well.
All the seals/o-ring I found to be standard apart from one, I had to order min amount of these so at same time I got three complete sets, if anyone needs a set give me a PM and we can sort something out, just pay for the seals and postage.
As for bleeding the pump this was easy just leave the banjo/bolt hold the high pressure pipe lose and turn pump by hand till the pump has filled its self up.
I also didn't use star to flush the system, just took return pipe from abc and power steering off, put a length of clear hose from them to a container, got a mate to switch car on and use switch in car to put suspension up and down, it took just 7 litres of oil to run clear, I did tho let a litre and half run clear, the steering was the same just a lot less oil.
Just don't let oil tanks run dry, have all your cans open and ready, if things get to low get your buddy to kill the engine.

The info on this post here and others can give you all the info you need to fix your pump, as long as the pistons have got damaged you pump will be repairable.
The reason I stripped mine was back pressure from filler tank, the one lose piston was putting pressure in sump which is contacted straight to the tank.
I did at same time remove damper/nitrogen bottles just to check they where ok which they where.
Not sure if this is important as far as levelling goes, but I did put my car on axle stands to remove weight off strut while system was apart. Till ready to flush system and had no trouble with level of the car.
Total cost for oil,seals and filter little under £300 oil being the biggest part of that cost.
I will add that my filter seemed very black it may of been blocked and caused the trouble in first place. I will now be flushing my system ever 40-50k miles.
Haven't had car long it did have full service history but abc is not something that shows needing doing in Merc service books.
I also changed gear oil while car on stands.

 

Will add to refit the pulley I popped the pulley part in the oven at max setting and put rebuilt pump in fridge for about an hour.
Pair of welding gloves pulley popped straight back on, then just put pulley end into cold water to cool it so heat didn't travel up shift and damage the seals.
Wish the thing come off that easy.
I'm also being to think I will flush the abc one more time after few weeks, this just because the pipes going to the struts are dead ends and after few weeks a lot of the travel will slowly bring that old oil out into the system.
Can't hurt to flush one more time and replace the filter again.
Best save than sorry hey.

 

Do you have any of these seals left? I have an 06 S65 with close to 100k miles and I want to rebuild my pump.

 

 

Could I just use a propane torch or do I need a full on blowtorch deal like you have in those pictures? (MAPP gas?)

 

I need one of the caps that holds the spring in

1 was cracked / broken

Do you know where I can get one