C200K W203 M111 10/2000 Engine Stall / faulty fuel pump
05-13-2013, 08:58 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
c200 Kompressor w203
C200K W203 M111 10/2000 Engine Stall / faulty fuel pump
C200 Kompressor W203 M111 10/2000 model
After some time web searching/trial and error, I’ve finally sorted out an engine stalling problem with my C200K.
I was not able to find a direct answer on the web or from experienced mechanics so I have presented my experience…
The symptoms of the breakdown(s) include …while driving along, sudden loss of power, no acceleration from the pedal and slowing down to a final engine stall.
After stalling – further attempts at restarting resulted in brief moments of the engine running (2-3 sec’s) only to stall immediately.
After that any attempts to start were just the turning over of the starter motor.
The fuel gauge read over a ¼ tank, and I know I had plenty of fuel in the car to run.
No other symptoms to report.
When the car was running – there were no problems, the engine ran smooth.
After stalling. The car was towed home - with a tilt trailer.
After the car was towed home, on the driveway the car would start up and run immediately, then after some time stall again as previous.
Plugged into a code reader – no faults found.
I thought it may have been some sort of electric module or sensor failing when the car heated up, but no fault codes presented.
The car is in 13years old and in reasonable condition for its age, everything looked fine under the bonnet/hood. No recent work had been done.
The first item recommended to replace was the crank angle sensor – it is a common fault. I replaced it as it was a cheap and easy job to do first.
I was also told it would not throw a fault code if it failed.
Replacing the crank sensor did not fix the problem.
The second Item, another common fault was the cam sensor. But after research on the web etc – I decided different. I figured the cam sensor would throw a fault code if it failed, also surely there would be other running symptoms etc.
The final time the car stalled, it was towed home again.
So all over again, engine started up and ran on the driveway… then stalled as previous
I decided to check fuel pressure.
I checked pressure at the fuel rail, just a quick visual check - cracking open a line – there was no fuel pressure, just a dribble of fuel.
Then I checked spark – no spark…
I have been told that sometimes when items such as the ECU or some other sensors fail, the fuel pump and spark circuit will be disabled.
Further web research and learning about some other fuel pump related problems...
I decided to grab a 10l jerry can of fuel and top up the tank…I knew that I had a least 20 litres in the tank and the tank gauge read over a ¼ tank, but it wouldn’t hurt to try.
After I had topped up the tank, It started up immediately. I thought it must just be the fuel level gauge that’s failing and thought all my problems were solved.
After a while of idling on the drive way it stalled again – same as previous.
So I then removed the back seat, pulled the fuel pump access cover off to have a look.
The fuel tank is split in two, the fuel pump side was empty the other side had fuel in it.
For Australian delivered cars the fuel pump is on the right hand side – or drivers side.
The fuel pump is installed into a splash/surge tank with a fuel level gauge combined as one unit.
The left hand side of the tank contains a fuel level sender only (no pump).
The main loom connector from the vehicle body connects through the top of the left hand side fuel level sender.
The main fuel lines from the vehicle body and loom first run through the left hand side fuel level sender – then through the middle of the tank (molded tube) and connect with the fuel pump on the right hand side. Both units work as one to balance the fuel level in the split tank.
Simple I thought, just go and get a replacement pump/fuel level sender assembly and problem solved.
Wrong, when I returned home I found that the replacement assembly had a different loom connector – the original was a flat 4 pin connector, the new was a block 4 pin connector.
Back to the parts shop and after a few phone calls to the supplier, I was informed that both left and right sender (right includes pump assembly) had to be replaced
The loom connectors have been upgraded from factory.
So I purchased both sides and headed back home again.
Replacement was a simple task.
The original loom connector from the vehicle body plugs straight into the top of the new left hand sender unit.
Topped up the fuel tank. After a bit of cranking to relieve the air in the lines, it started and ran.
Haven’t had the problem since…
I hope this helps….rather than just confuse everyone further.
When the car was breaking down and stalling, each time I would get it towed home. The tilt trailer must have tipped the car and fuel tank over far enough to allow some fuel to flow into the pump side of the tank – so it would then start and run for a while and deceive me into thinking the problem was elsewhere!
After some time web searching/trial and error, I’ve finally sorted out an engine stalling problem with my C200K.
I was not able to find a direct answer on the web or from experienced mechanics so I have presented my experience…
The symptoms of the breakdown(s) include …while driving along, sudden loss of power, no acceleration from the pedal and slowing down to a final engine stall.
After stalling – further attempts at restarting resulted in brief moments of the engine running (2-3 sec’s) only to stall immediately.
After that any attempts to start were just the turning over of the starter motor.
The fuel gauge read over a ¼ tank, and I know I had plenty of fuel in the car to run.
No other symptoms to report.
When the car was running – there were no problems, the engine ran smooth.
After stalling. The car was towed home - with a tilt trailer.
After the car was towed home, on the driveway the car would start up and run immediately, then after some time stall again as previous.
Plugged into a code reader – no faults found.
I thought it may have been some sort of electric module or sensor failing when the car heated up, but no fault codes presented.
The car is in 13years old and in reasonable condition for its age, everything looked fine under the bonnet/hood. No recent work had been done.
The first item recommended to replace was the crank angle sensor – it is a common fault. I replaced it as it was a cheap and easy job to do first.
I was also told it would not throw a fault code if it failed.
Replacing the crank sensor did not fix the problem.
The second Item, another common fault was the cam sensor. But after research on the web etc – I decided different. I figured the cam sensor would throw a fault code if it failed, also surely there would be other running symptoms etc.
The final time the car stalled, it was towed home again.
So all over again, engine started up and ran on the driveway… then stalled as previous
I decided to check fuel pressure.
I checked pressure at the fuel rail, just a quick visual check - cracking open a line – there was no fuel pressure, just a dribble of fuel.
Then I checked spark – no spark…
I have been told that sometimes when items such as the ECU or some other sensors fail, the fuel pump and spark circuit will be disabled.
Further web research and learning about some other fuel pump related problems...
I decided to grab a 10l jerry can of fuel and top up the tank…I knew that I had a least 20 litres in the tank and the tank gauge read over a ¼ tank, but it wouldn’t hurt to try.
After I had topped up the tank, It started up immediately. I thought it must just be the fuel level gauge that’s failing and thought all my problems were solved.
After a while of idling on the drive way it stalled again – same as previous.
So I then removed the back seat, pulled the fuel pump access cover off to have a look.
The fuel tank is split in two, the fuel pump side was empty the other side had fuel in it.
For Australian delivered cars the fuel pump is on the right hand side – or drivers side.
The fuel pump is installed into a splash/surge tank with a fuel level gauge combined as one unit.
The left hand side of the tank contains a fuel level sender only (no pump).
The main loom connector from the vehicle body connects through the top of the left hand side fuel level sender.
The main fuel lines from the vehicle body and loom first run through the left hand side fuel level sender – then through the middle of the tank (molded tube) and connect with the fuel pump on the right hand side. Both units work as one to balance the fuel level in the split tank.
Simple I thought, just go and get a replacement pump/fuel level sender assembly and problem solved.
Wrong, when I returned home I found that the replacement assembly had a different loom connector – the original was a flat 4 pin connector, the new was a block 4 pin connector.
Back to the parts shop and after a few phone calls to the supplier, I was informed that both left and right sender (right includes pump assembly) had to be replaced
The loom connectors have been upgraded from factory.
So I purchased both sides and headed back home again.
Replacement was a simple task.
The original loom connector from the vehicle body plugs straight into the top of the new left hand sender unit.
Topped up the fuel tank. After a bit of cranking to relieve the air in the lines, it started and ran.
Haven’t had the problem since…
I hope this helps….rather than just confuse everyone further.
When the car was breaking down and stalling, each time I would get it towed home. The tilt trailer must have tipped the car and fuel tank over far enough to allow some fuel to flow into the pump side of the tank – so it would then start and run for a while and deceive me into thinking the problem was elsewhere!
