mb techman

.

MB-Dude

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to share this info. Great pic with easy-to-understand description. Considering the last tranny I rebuilt was from a '65 Chevy... We've come a long way! Thanks again.
Cheers,
Jeff

TurboJeep

Love the pic. In the Jeep SRT8 Valve bodies, some guys swap in the Blue Top solenoids vs. the stock brown tops. It makes a huge difference.

There's another company that offers modified valve bodies for us. I was dyno testing a Jeep Turbo we built and broke the input shaft on the dyno during the 4-5 shift!! Bill from said company made a special valve body for our customer. I have NEVER felt a tranny shift so hard in my life. I could shift the truck in auto stick at 2500 RPM's during the 1-2 and 2-3 shift and chirp the tires. I was running 65mph and caught a red light. I was driving in normal D. The tires chirped on the down shift. It was crazy. The tranny did break at 905rwhp at 16psi. Sadly, it's made 1103rwhp last time.

It's nice the see the VB that's in my S63. Much different than the Nag1's. Thanks again for posting up the pic!

GrepAwk

Thanks for this post.

Which Transmission part number do I have in my MY'03 S55 AMG ?

zippy_gg

Great picture of the valve body.
I just took mine out to have a turbine speed sensor replaced as the tranny was in limp mode.
A local guy came by with his diagnostic tool to get the code reading, at a cost of $150.00. Here is what we found:
2204 The signal from component Y3/8n1 (Turbine speed sensor (VGS)) is
not available.
Current and stored
2205 Component Y3/8n1 (Turbine speed sensor (VGS)) is defective. STORED
I am taking the valve body to a shop in Los Angeles where they quoted me $350 for the repair.
Once I re-install the unit I will have the guy come back with his diagnostic tool for the SCN coding.
I had the transmission serviced about a year ago, about 10k miles ago, and I was surprised to find a very dirty filter and ATF. Aldo the filter was at the bottom of the drain pan and not attached to the valve body.
I now seriously doubt the quality of the indy shop I took my car to for that service...

zippy_gg

Removing the vale body was pretty straightforward; now I have a question about the re-installation.
Does the plate simply goes up and positions itself correctly or do I need to finagle some mechanical connection,? I was specifically wondering about the part in the red circle?
I would hate to have it re-installed wrong and only find out after all the ATF is in and the car won't shift...
Also can someone confirm the torque for the 10 bolts? I have read 8Nm.
Thanks!

zippy_gg

Update on this from G&N Motors in West Los Angeles who worked on my valve body: the contact plate was literally falling apart and the software needed to be updated; the shop thoroughly cleaned up the valve body and solenoids. Cost was $350.
I am in the process of reassembling now...

zippy_gg

I answered my own question, and YES I need to make sure the yellow plastic "cup" is engaged in the shifting mechanism.
I'll try and post a picture later...

zippy_gg

Can' find the torque converter drain plug...
Some DIY posts say MB stopped using them, and other posts say otherwise.
I removed the rubber cover and disconnected the electrical connectors while a helper turned the engine with a 27mm socket on the crankshaft. We switched places just to confirm I wasn't (entirely) crazy, and neither could fine a drain plug.
What is the best practice to drain the TC so I get most of the old fluid out before refilling?

zippy_gg

After searching and reading more posts than I wanted to I found the way to drain/flush the torque converter, cooler, and cooler lines for my 277.9 transmission.

1. Fill transmission pan with at least 3 liters of ATF
2. Open hood
3. Remove air intake duct on passenger side
4. Remove middle engine plate (from bottom of the car)
5. Locate the tranny lines on the passenger side of the engine bay and remove the U clip from the top line. No need to do anything with the bottom line. Pull line from fitting on the cooler
6. I dropped the line below the car (reason for step 3 ) and placed the end in an empty clear milk jug
7. I asked my helper to start the engine while I watched with apprehension
8. Lo and behold, the dirty ATF started flowing gently into the milk jug. I asked my helper to shift to Park, Drive, and Neutral a few times, and we stopped when ATF stopped flowing.
9. Added a bit under 3 liters to the drain pan and repeated steps 7 & 8 until the ATF flowing out was clean, which took less than a liter.
10. I measured the amount of ATF that I had just flushed and it totaled 3.2 liters
11. I reinstalled the line onto the cooler and pushed the U clip in its original position, reinstalled the air intake duct from step 2, and reinstalled the middle engine plate at the bottom of the car
12. Added enough ATF in the pan to get ready for the level check at 45C

Tomorrow I will make sure the car is level before finishing up and calling the guy with the mobile STAR system to perform the SCN programing.
Fingers crossed!


Sorry I ended up doing a lot of work and forgot to take pictures... My bad!

mb techman

.

mb techman

.

zippy_gg

As I found out, in spite of the local dealer parts guy telling me that according to my VIN I had one.
I still managed to under fill by almost 2 quarts... and corrected.
Then the shifting was off and I had to take the car to the shop that replaced the conductor plate to have them do their little magic (less than 5 minutes) at no charge and the car is once again a pleasure to drive.

mb techman

.

oldcarguy

As misery loves company, I would like to know that speed sensor failure is a very common problem on SLK 230s that reach around 90,000 miles.
I am hving the conductor plate, solenoids , plug connector, filter and of course ATF replaced. Is there anything else I should be watching for.
I am using a DORMAN 917-679

Also I would like to do a post mortem on the speed sensor ...... is there any way to test it .?

Thanks,

Bob