Virginizing an encrypted ECU
I'm now looking for a place where I could mail the ECU to have it wiped/programmed (or at the very least virginized) and sent back. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Last edited by Pyronaut; Mar 27, 2024 at 07:17 PM.
I have a 2014 ml550, and my mechanic informs me that the ECU has been permeated with oil and needs to be replaced and reprogrammed. He doesn't have the necessary computers and equipment to do so and informs me that if he buys this new unit he will have the ability to do so. This is been going on way too long. Does the ml550 ECU have the burdensome restrictions from Mercedes-Benz as the newer models? If not, how do I go about getting a refurbished, or used, ECU reprogrammed to match my vehicle?
Please advise,
Michael L
Please advise,
Michael L
If it does work, or can get it working after a cleaning, you can clone a junkyard ecu for ~$60. I paid ~$200 for my junkyard ecu, + the $60, and good to go.
If you had oil then you also have to deal with that or it'll simply do it to the replacement ecu.
I can explain how to clean yours, make the junkyard one work, and fix your oil issue. Few are interested in any of that and would rather pay to have it done. After you get the quote, which could exceed $10k, people become more open minded.
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That is the end of my ECU journey. Lesson learned.
That is the end of my ECU journey. Lesson learned.
I got the remanufactured one from on online OEM Mercedes parts web site. Just Google Mercedes OEM parts online and it'll be in the top 3. The one I purchased from was in Canada so you might want to try the American version. Then you gotta get it programmed, which I did at the dealer but apparently other places can do too.
I used mbparts.ca. The American versions have the same site layout.
Also the place I sent the ECU was diagspeed.com I believe.
Otherwise I suppose I would use carb cleaner. Or dish soap and hot water, then rinse with pure DI, distilled or whatever clean water to get all the nasty water and soap off. Dry completely and it should be fine. I wouldn't soak the thing in water, or solvent, you just want to get the gist of it off the surface of the board. Not so easy to get off the back side, but the back (top where the cooling fins are) should be clean unless you/someone turned it upside down. If a mechanic opened it up, he turned it upside down... You can still clean it, it would just be more of a pita.
You can also put something in the ECU, like paper towels or whatever to absorb oil. And/or you can also make a little drain hole if you want so it just drips out.
I'd copy the ECU before I do anything, just in case. No just for the cleaning, but if the ECU dies at any point after you have that data to put on a junkyard ECU. Without that data you're looking thousand$ to fix it. To copy the data I used a KESS from aliexpress, which is like $60. Easy peezy. If you want to go that route, PM me (so I get the msg) and I can tell you more, like the Tricore option you should buy with it, and one part of the instructions you do NOT want to follow. There are other ways to copy the ECU, but the KESS is powerful and super cheap.
For your oil issue, I wrote a spiel on how to stop it here. Seems nobody else has tried it, and I can't understand why because I think it's awesome:
https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...ml#post8771425
I rekon it's been well over two years since I did that mod and zero oil at the ECU plug, which I checked again a couple weeks ago. The only change I made was I added a third line at some point because a third sensor was wet. The oil collects in a small bottle and last time I emptied it it had maybe 20 drops of oil in it. Not sure how long since I emptied it before that, but if I had to guess I'd go with 6 months?










