Paddle Shift Retrofit Help




I'm trying to retrofit the C63 paddle shifters onto my R63. I know this is the wrong section, but I'd figure I'd get more help from the ML section where more mods are done; along with the fact that the ML is very similar to the R in terms of this particular modification. Basically I want to retrofit the paddles and from what I understand a few members have done this on their pre facelifted MLs. The biggest issue is that the stock shift buttons have three wires while the new paddles only have two. My technician and I are having a hard time figuring out how to exactly wire up the three wires into the two wire system in terms of what wires to splice with what. If anyone has done this, can you please shed some light on the situation or give me the contact info for the person that did it for you.
Thanks!




I am not familiar with the specific shifter implementation on the R63. However, I am very familiar with many of the paddle configurations in other merdcedes models so I thought I would take a peak at the documentation on this for you.
In the mercedes "WEB ETM" it shows only one shift button configuration for the R (251). It shows 2 3-pin connectors with ....
LEFT BUTTON
pin 1 minus (down)
pin 2 common (ground)
pin 3 plus (upshift)
RIGHT BUTTON (opposite)
pin 1 plus (upshift)
pin 2 common (ground)
pin 3 minus (down)
NOTE: Mercedes has in the past had their left and right info (for steering mounted shift buttons) SWAPPED .... so if the above info info shown as "left" actually pertains to your right buttons (and vice versa) .... it would not surprise me too much.
now, I will assume that the C63 paddles you are trying to integrate are the 2009 and earlier type (use part number A171 267 0046 as they are only $109 for a set from the mercedes discount supply) and these come pinned as follows:
Left
pin 1 common (ground) Black wire
pin 2 UNUSED
pin 3 minus (downshift) Blue wire
Right
pin 1 common (ground) Black wire
pin 2 plus (upshift) Yellow wire
pin 3 UNUSED
newer paddles used some other pin configurations (namely both left and right using pins 2 &3), but I suspect you are trying to use the A1712670046 type paddles.
I hope that answers all of your questions. If this does not exactly pertain to your situation, I would be happy to take a closer look at it if you gave me some more specific info.
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; Aug 14, 2012 at 11:27 AM.




I greatly appreciate your informative reply. It is extremelly insightful. The paddles that I ordered are 204 267 0046 (and already have on hand) which I suppose are for the newer 010+ C63s. If the 171 part no will also work, it's no problem to swap them.
So if I just splice the wires and hook up down to down, up to up, and connect the grounds to unused then it should in theory be plug and play? (we're ignoring the fact that the paddles require a physically larger opening than the shift buttons.




I greatly appreciate your informative reply. It is extremelly insightful. The paddles that I ordered are 204 267 0046 (and already have on hand) which I suppose are for the newer 010+ C63s. If the 171 part no will also work, it's no problem to swap them.
So if I just splice the wires and hook up down to down, up to up, and connect the grounds to unused then it should in theory be plug and play? (we're ignoring the fact that the paddles require a physically larger opening than the shift buttons.
I have not held the 204 267 0046 switches in my hand (nor can I find a picture) however, I think they are virtually indistinguishable from the part number I mentioned (and I have used MANY sets of those : ). please, someone correct me if I am wrong on this. but I suspect the only difference is either a minor cable length difference or perhaps the 204 came with a mounting screw ? The 204 indicates that this (your part) was first designated for the 204 class (C) and the 171 corresponds to 171 class (SLK).
none of that really matters as these newer switches (switches spec'd after 2004 for some models ... after 2006 for all models) are all "normally open" and therefore functionally equivalent . There may be variations in the pin-out of its connector ... but that is easy to sort out.
if you want my number so I can walk you though this (we should be able to do it by moving the pins rather than splicing) send me a PM
I also have a handy cutting template that you will find useful for modifying the pockets on the back side of your wheel.
Chris




I'd love a walk through. I'm having a technician do this for me but all additional information is greatly appreciated.
I don't need the template as I'm having someone make a custom steering wheel. I just need to get the paddles sorted out first before they can begin work on the steering wheel.

I found a 2010 ML63 wheel on German EBay and got it for a steal, the ally paddles had been removed for the black plastic ones for some reason, maybe sold on...
I then upgraded to the ally paddles as below, using the paddles A171 267 0046

Right side wiring

Red wire is +
Blue wire is -
I cant remember what colour the wires are the come out of the back of the AMG paddles, but one of them is black. I used that at the ground wire and soldered it to the blue wire.
it isnt too much work to get these on.
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Was it easy retrofitting the facelifted steering wheel? All of the steering wheel buttons work correctly? What type of version coding did you have to do with SDS?




When my tech looked at it it's pretty straight forward. So now I'm glad I know with the info on this board that it's easy to do.




Chris
This is xxGenericSNxx 's finished wheel
https://mbworld.org/forums/ml55-amg-...ml#post5884375
and a little info on this conversion
https://mbworld.org/forums/ml55-amg-...ml#post5884375




Cheers,
Chris



