Installed Sub and Amp
05-26-2013, 02:55 PM
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Installed Sub and Amp
Pics will follow soon!.......
Okay, so I had an old sub and amp laying around that i had in my old car many years ago. I recently dusted it off to lend it to my friend to put in his E92 M3. He loved it so much, he wanted even more bass, so he took this one out and put a bigger setup in.
So I thought, screw it, may as well throw it in the ML.
Very easy to install a sub and amp in our cars. I didn't take pics of the process, but will explain it to you. In total, from start to finish it took about 1hr. I do have previous experience in this (Not on an ML though), and I am technically minded, but I think most if not all of us are, on this forum.
So the things you need are
SUBWOOFER
AMPLIFIER
AMP WIRING KIT
STINGER SGN12 50W FIXED HIGH POWER LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER
USUAL TOOLS, TORX BITS, ETC.
What makes so easy, is that we have the subwoofer in the boot already.
Remove the whole factory subwoofer and its enclosure. To do this, the left side of boot lining has to be removed.
There are 3 bolts holding the subwoofer enclosure. There is also a wiring harness for the wires. Unclip this also.
These are the wires that you will be splicing into, to hook directly into the Stinger Converter. There are 4 wires (to pairs of + & -) Strip these, and put them into the + & - on the Stinger Converter. I also grounded the stinger converter, but this is optional. There is a ground connection, but behind the tail light on the left.
Next you can run the positive cable from the battery to the boot. This is probably the most difficult part of the process, routing the cable from the battery, under the carpet to the boot. But with a bit of persistence, you will get it done.
The battery is located under the drivers seat (RHD). Quite easily accessible. The user manual for your car illustrates and instructs how to get to it, so I won't write it all here.
Basically, run the cable (with a fuse no further than 30cm or so) from the start of the cable from the battery + terminal) to the boot of the car.
I chose to install the amp where the existing factory subwoofer was, so it's hidden in there.
Run a ground cable from the grounding point near the tail light.
Run a remote / accessory cable from the thin green wire coming out of the airmatic pump in the cavity where the factory subwoofer was.
That's it, you have done all the wiring needed. Now it's a matter of plugging it all into the AMP, then running the cable from the AMP to the Sub.
Then just play your favourite tunes with a little more bass than standard!
I will post some pics tomorrow.
Any questions, I will be happy to answer what I can.
Okay, so I had an old sub and amp laying around that i had in my old car many years ago. I recently dusted it off to lend it to my friend to put in his E92 M3. He loved it so much, he wanted even more bass, so he took this one out and put a bigger setup in.
So I thought, screw it, may as well throw it in the ML.
Very easy to install a sub and amp in our cars. I didn't take pics of the process, but will explain it to you. In total, from start to finish it took about 1hr. I do have previous experience in this (Not on an ML though), and I am technically minded, but I think most if not all of us are, on this forum.
So the things you need are
SUBWOOFER
AMPLIFIER
AMP WIRING KIT
STINGER SGN12 50W FIXED HIGH POWER LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER
USUAL TOOLS, TORX BITS, ETC.
What makes so easy, is that we have the subwoofer in the boot already.
Remove the whole factory subwoofer and its enclosure. To do this, the left side of boot lining has to be removed.
There are 3 bolts holding the subwoofer enclosure. There is also a wiring harness for the wires. Unclip this also.
These are the wires that you will be splicing into, to hook directly into the Stinger Converter. There are 4 wires (to pairs of + & -) Strip these, and put them into the + & - on the Stinger Converter. I also grounded the stinger converter, but this is optional. There is a ground connection, but behind the tail light on the left.
Next you can run the positive cable from the battery to the boot. This is probably the most difficult part of the process, routing the cable from the battery, under the carpet to the boot. But with a bit of persistence, you will get it done.
The battery is located under the drivers seat (RHD). Quite easily accessible. The user manual for your car illustrates and instructs how to get to it, so I won't write it all here.
Basically, run the cable (with a fuse no further than 30cm or so) from the start of the cable from the battery + terminal) to the boot of the car.
I chose to install the amp where the existing factory subwoofer was, so it's hidden in there.
Run a ground cable from the grounding point near the tail light.
Run a remote / accessory cable from the thin green wire coming out of the airmatic pump in the cavity where the factory subwoofer was.
That's it, you have done all the wiring needed. Now it's a matter of plugging it all into the AMP, then running the cable from the AMP to the Sub.
Then just play your favourite tunes with a little more bass than standard!
I will post some pics tomorrow.
Any questions, I will be happy to answer what I can.
