In the search for a ML55
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 446
Likes: 2
From: Culver City, California
1999 C43 AMG
In the search for a ML55
Hi guys over here on this side of the forums, I am wondering about trying to buy new car since my 99 C230k got totaled this past week and plating in looking for a family SUV Mercedes amg and the only one I can think of is the ML 55 amg if you guys have experience with these cars what are the pros and cons ml55 2001 any advice and any input would be greatly appreciated since I need one for the family now thank you very much
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Manhasset, NY
02 S4, 01 ML55, 05 M3 Vert
Was in the same situation as you about a month ago, searching for a fun, fast, inexpensive SUV for the winter, the ML55 fit the bill. (Disclaimer: i do all my own labor) It is a lot of "car" for the money now, they can be had at or less than $5k in excellent mechanical condition.
A few points of which to be aware:
1) AAM: controls the central locks as well as other items in the vehicle, for some reason this module fails and is rather expensive to replace, i.e apparently it can only be reprogrammed with the star diagnostics meaning you need to use the dealer. There is apparently a Ebay seller that services these, but I am not familar with this.
2) Tires: 285/50/18 available from Hankook, Nitto and that's about it unless you go used. They are hard to come by and the price starts at $196 per tire if you want to keep the 18x9 AMG monoblocks. You can go bigger with the 295/45/18's which will give you a wider stance. Replacing with a taller (sidewall) tire or thinner tire you will sacrifice stability.
3) From my experience the engine and transmission are pretty much bulletproof. Oil and fluids that's it.
3) The older M113 AMG's apparently eat motor mounts. They aren't difficult to replace on you own if you have the tools to do it in the drive way..the parts are cheap, less than $75 from rockauto for both sides, this will eliminate your clunking from accelration/braking.
4) Try to find a 2002-2003 ML55 with the upgraded headlights, signal mirrors and other enhancements the 2000-2002 didn't have. They are much harder to come by and more expensive, but look slightly more updated.
5) The xenon headlights on the 2000-2001 have quartz type open reflectors, poor projection and visability compared to the modern HID projectors...you can always update your bulbs and ballasts, or retrofit E55 projectors in your housings or just buy new projector headlights.
6) Navigation is archaic, if you want to use bluetooth or android/iphone buy the Isimple Trueblue adapter, its a seamless installation and will make your driving experience much better. Less than $70 to be able to use your phone and the installation is a simple as a power/ground and antenna adapter.
7) The shocks probably need to be replaced at this point, can go with bilsteins or monroe. Monroes are cheap enough and easy enough to replace on your own that it maybe worth going that route. The fronts are shocks, no coils. The rears are shocks with coils. The suspension uses torsion bars so lowering isn't as easy as most cars. Lowering more than 1" via the torsion bar makes for an absolutely horrible floating ride.
8) the passenger side sunroof drain leaks...soaking your passenger side floor carpet...easy fix if you are patient.
9) Brakes: contrary to popular belief...these are just painted brembos that are found on the ml430 and 500, it's a monoblock caliper as opposed to floating. You can easily replace all 4 rotors and pads for less than $100 if you do the work yourself. At this point, becareful regarding flushing the system...calipers and bleeders probably have seen some weather and the last thing you want to do is snap off the bleeder. The calipers are cheap enough to replace if need be. Expect to replace all 4 rotors and pads every 15k miles depending on your right foot tendencies.
10) the primary cats break apart....they are no longer covered by the recall or warranty at this point. Your options are to change out the exhaust from the manifold to the resonator with the direct swap magnaflow piece, or cut out your primaries and swap in a aftermarket cat, ideally magnaflow.
11) want more power...haha, the m113 isn't really a motor that responds to too much else. It is an AMG motor which has been tuned to the max without going forced induction. You can delete the secondary cats and the resonator to lose some weight and bring to life that AMG bark, however you may loose some low end torque. Don't bother going with a tune, it wont do anything for you regardless of the marketing. The only thing that will move this tank faster is weight loss, force induction, or potentially a good custom long tube header system.
12) Enjoy, it really is a great rig that you don't see very often, very few made. Again, it's a lot of truck for the money!
A few points of which to be aware:
1) AAM: controls the central locks as well as other items in the vehicle, for some reason this module fails and is rather expensive to replace, i.e apparently it can only be reprogrammed with the star diagnostics meaning you need to use the dealer. There is apparently a Ebay seller that services these, but I am not familar with this.
2) Tires: 285/50/18 available from Hankook, Nitto and that's about it unless you go used. They are hard to come by and the price starts at $196 per tire if you want to keep the 18x9 AMG monoblocks. You can go bigger with the 295/45/18's which will give you a wider stance. Replacing with a taller (sidewall) tire or thinner tire you will sacrifice stability.
3) From my experience the engine and transmission are pretty much bulletproof. Oil and fluids that's it.
3) The older M113 AMG's apparently eat motor mounts. They aren't difficult to replace on you own if you have the tools to do it in the drive way..the parts are cheap, less than $75 from rockauto for both sides, this will eliminate your clunking from accelration/braking.
4) Try to find a 2002-2003 ML55 with the upgraded headlights, signal mirrors and other enhancements the 2000-2002 didn't have. They are much harder to come by and more expensive, but look slightly more updated.
5) The xenon headlights on the 2000-2001 have quartz type open reflectors, poor projection and visability compared to the modern HID projectors...you can always update your bulbs and ballasts, or retrofit E55 projectors in your housings or just buy new projector headlights.
6) Navigation is archaic, if you want to use bluetooth or android/iphone buy the Isimple Trueblue adapter, its a seamless installation and will make your driving experience much better. Less than $70 to be able to use your phone and the installation is a simple as a power/ground and antenna adapter.
7) The shocks probably need to be replaced at this point, can go with bilsteins or monroe. Monroes are cheap enough and easy enough to replace on your own that it maybe worth going that route. The fronts are shocks, no coils. The rears are shocks with coils. The suspension uses torsion bars so lowering isn't as easy as most cars. Lowering more than 1" via the torsion bar makes for an absolutely horrible floating ride.
8) the passenger side sunroof drain leaks...soaking your passenger side floor carpet...easy fix if you are patient.
9) Brakes: contrary to popular belief...these are just painted brembos that are found on the ml430 and 500, it's a monoblock caliper as opposed to floating. You can easily replace all 4 rotors and pads for less than $100 if you do the work yourself. At this point, becareful regarding flushing the system...calipers and bleeders probably have seen some weather and the last thing you want to do is snap off the bleeder. The calipers are cheap enough to replace if need be. Expect to replace all 4 rotors and pads every 15k miles depending on your right foot tendencies.
10) the primary cats break apart....they are no longer covered by the recall or warranty at this point. Your options are to change out the exhaust from the manifold to the resonator with the direct swap magnaflow piece, or cut out your primaries and swap in a aftermarket cat, ideally magnaflow.
11) want more power...haha, the m113 isn't really a motor that responds to too much else. It is an AMG motor which has been tuned to the max without going forced induction. You can delete the secondary cats and the resonator to lose some weight and bring to life that AMG bark, however you may loose some low end torque. Don't bother going with a tune, it wont do anything for you regardless of the marketing. The only thing that will move this tank faster is weight loss, force induction, or potentially a good custom long tube header system.
12) Enjoy, it really is a great rig that you don't see very often, very few made. Again, it's a lot of truck for the money!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 446
Likes: 2
From: Culver City, California
1999 C43 AMG
Thank you for the respond. I am in a dilemma since I kept the C230k salvage and going to part out my AMG body kit and put it back regular stock.
So here's where I'm at i have 2 ml to pick from. Both 2001, one up north in Fresno area the other in San Diego. The one up north is $5500 with 112,500 miles, and the one in SD is $2000 with 210,000 miles which is a bit high, so what would you do, get the ml55 with low mileage and fix it up clean, or the ml with lower mileage and take a risk. And I wonder did the 2001 ml have rear headrest entertainment ? Cause the one up north seems to have a set up probabt aftermarket, so I'm already like iffy about it if it's not stock. But the one in SD seems real bargain but is a long shot. Thanks for the help again
So here's where I'm at i have 2 ml to pick from. Both 2001, one up north in Fresno area the other in San Diego. The one up north is $5500 with 112,500 miles, and the one in SD is $2000 with 210,000 miles which is a bit high, so what would you do, get the ml55 with low mileage and fix it up clean, or the ml with lower mileage and take a risk. And I wonder did the 2001 ml have rear headrest entertainment ? Cause the one up north seems to have a set up probabt aftermarket, so I'm already like iffy about it if it's not stock. But the one in SD seems real bargain but is a long shot. Thanks for the help again
