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Last month bought 2012 ML550 with factory installed hitch receiver. We have 26 foot Airstream that we want to tow with the ML550.
I have the spec from Andy at Can-Am RV for hitch re-inforcement for WD hitch.
My local RV has lots of experience with brake controllers but has no experience with working on MB. They asked I do the following research.
Lookng for comments about effort required to install Prodgy brake controller:
1. where did MB locate the end of cable wiring from the hitch that I need to connect to brake controller?
2. does the knee airbag under the steering column extend to under the ignition switch such that I can not safely put the brake controller on the console above my right knee?
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
You might want to look into the Prodigy RF. No installation required on the tow vehicle and works every bit as good as any wired PBR if not better. Plus, you can change tow vehicles as you see fit.
You might want to look into the Prodigy RF. No installation required on the tow vehicle and works every bit as good as any wired PBR if not better. Plus, you can change tow vehicles as you see fit.
I second what diabolis says. I pull a 19' Airstream with my 2014 ML350BT and use the Prodigy RF. Everything mounts to the trailer, so you don't have to hack up your beautiful ML interior. There's nothing to wire. The handheld remote just plugs into the cigarette lighter and stashes in the glove box when you're not using it.
Go with the wired version 100%
Especially if you have parksensors/airmatic ect.
It's a real easy install. the wired install changes shiftpoint, suspension, lane dept ect,
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Originally Posted by nookie
Go with the wired version 100%
Especially if you have parksensors/airmatic ect.
It's a real easy install. the wired install changes shiftpoint, suspension, lane dept ect,
Everything you mentioned happens when ANY trailer is connected to the 7-pin trailer electrical plug on a vehicle with the factory tow package (which also adds a larger transmission cooler, stronger rear subframe, special ESP programming and a bunch of other goodies). What you are referencing is the SAM installation, which the OP already has on his car. Mercedes does not sell, support or even approve the use of a wired PBC on any of their vehicles - it even says so right in the PDF you linked. The Prodigy RF is still a much more elegant solution, and is furthermore the only one that will not void the vehicle warranty as there is no hookup of unapproved aftermarket equipment.
Go with the wired version. Diabolis has no clue, even the MB dealership around the corner from him say he's full of himself idiot pulling a piece of junk.
There's a reason MB puts the wiring up front for a brake controller.
MB puts the wiring in the car because they support it, MB also sells the connector parts and publish all sorts of instructions because they support it. if they didn't they would not sell a factory hitch.
Go wired, works 100% all the time. wireless can be one big fat headache, You have a lot of money going into the airstream, do it right.
Can't tell you anything about the RF brake controllers, although sounds good. I am using a Prodigy P3 controller that I installed myself.
The wiring is under the carpet just above and behind the brake pedal. I did not find a pre-made Prodigy connector for MB, however MB sells the connector end and you just add it to the end of the generic wires that come with the controller. My controller sits in the cubby just above the ash tray. Has worked great.
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars, EQE 4Matic+ on order
Originally Posted by nookie
Go with the wired version. Diabolis has no clue, even the MB dealership around the corner from him say he's full of himself idiot pulling a piece of junk.
There's a reason MB puts the wiring up front for a brake controller.
MB puts the wiring in the car because they support it, MB also sells the connector parts and publish all sorts of instructions because they support it. if they didn't they would not sell a factory hitch.
Go wired, works 100% all the time. wireless can be one big fat headache, You have a lot of money going into the airstream, do it right.
Nice edit, a$$hole. The original post would have had you banned. So sorry to hear you are still butt hurt from the LED light bulbs... most people would have pulled them out of their a$$ by now.
MB *doesn't* support a wired PBC. Read the first paragraph in the PDF that you posted. As for the connector parts and hitch, for the seventeenth time - they are already preinstalled on the ML/GLE with the tow package, which you obviously can't seem to grasp. MB certainly supports using the car as a tow vehicle - they just don't support wired PBCs being connected to the MB wiring harnesses.
As for the RF solution being a big fat headache, you couldn't be more wrong. It is by far one of the most reliable PBCs ever made. In fact, it's the electrical loads from the wired ones that can sometimes interfere with the vehicle electrics which is exactly why they are not supported by MB, not the other way around. Using the RF is the only way you can tow a trailer with a MB without molesting the vehicle and voiding the factory warranty.
Last month bought 2012 ML550 with factory installed hitch receiver. We have 26 foot Airstream that we want to tow with the ML550.
Ken,
I just went through this with my 2013 ML550 - you'll love it as a tow vehicle. Make sure you have the Towing Package - if not, it's costly and a pain. Airmatic is also handy for self-leveling. I rent a little Casita and occasionally rent / borrow other trailers up to about 6500lbs (tow my W124 occasionally), so a wireless controller was not an option for me. I use a wired Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller and I love it. Ordered it from Amazon ($115).
The good news is: it's simple and you can do it yourself in less than an hour. The bad news is: (1) you need to order the parts from the MB dealer ($25), (2) you need to do a little self-assembly of the connector, (3) there is no ideal placement for the controller due to airbags / wiring.
Three things to help you:
(1) PDF of for Mercedes Trailer Wiring Directions - already existed on forum
(2) W166 Mercedes Trailer Wiring Diagram - not required, but helped me understand the wiring layout for the car
(3) Picture of a connector housing plugged into the trailer wiring
Step 1: Open the PDF and turn to Page 3 and call your MB parts desk to order the Connector Housing, .75mm Pin, and (3x) 2.5mm pins. Just give them the part numbers. If you are ham-fisted (like me), it won't hurt to order an extra pin or two (I bent one of mine being an angry ogre).
Step 2: With parts on hand, locate the trailer brake connector - it's behind the brake pedal under the carpet in your floor. If you have a factory hitch, you should have one. It's bright green. I had to pull my carpet back about 6 inches and move a plastic clip - simple.
Step 3: Get the wiring diagram for your brake controller that explains the colors of the wires coming from the controller. Get a piece of paper and go back to the car and connect the Green connector housing to your trailer wiring harness - the Green connector housing has numbers on it, just write down the color of the cable (Yellow/Red, Black/Red etc) going into each of the four numbered ports. Then, refer to Page 2 of the Mercedes PDF and match the description of the cable's color to the corresponding color scheme from the brake controller's directions. Double check your work.
Step 4: Go sit at a counter and crimp the 4 metal pins to the wires for the brake controller. It should be obvious which one requires the 2.5mm pin - the rest are smaller. Then the pins just slide into the connector housing - I usually heard a little click and didn't have to push that hard.
Step 5: With the connector housing now connected to your trailer brake's wiring, determine where you want to mount the brake controller. I mounted mine right to the steering column. I connected the wiring to the car, then ran it up the inside of the steering column under the dash. If you do this, don't be stupid like me and have it actually connected to the trailer wiring with the battery powered - I blew a fuse by touching metal with the connector. So either kill the battery or just don't plug it in.
Step 6: I used 3M double sided gel adhesive and used the provided Tekonsha mount and literally stuck it to the hard plastic on the steering column. I didn't want to drill into the plastic - but you certainly could. Hasn't fallen off in over 6 months and when/if it does, I have a whole pack of 3M adhesive that stays in the spare tire well. If you put the controller here, your leg WILL hit the bracket and controller once in a while when entering / exiting the car. Not ideal - you have to decide what works for you. I decided I want to be able to easily access the manual brake switch and hide the wiring. I also remove the controller when I'm not towing and store it in the glove box.
Step 7: Connect it up and it should power on and finish configuring your controller.
Total Time: 45 minutes start to finish - and I'm truly not a DIY kind of guy.
Pictures below should help. Good luck.
W166 Trailer Wiring Diagram from another MBWorld user - not needed, but nice to know
Photo from another MBWorld User - found it helpful for visual
Placement of my Tekonsha P3 - Under the steering wheel
Controller up close and in bracket
Bracket with controller removed and cable exposed
Bracket with cable tucked away when not towing
Tiny Casita, but just right for a single guy. Brakes work great.
02-15-2018, 10:23 PM
