jenz

I cleaned up my lease calculator to make it user friendly

Windows Excel 2010
https://mega.nz/#!x4IwGT6D!GJsa5MA-M...d3of212iIG-8a8

Google Sheets - go to 'file' then 'download as'
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

MSRP, money factor, acquisition fee and other dealer "official" fees are all variables

Your drive off should only be the 1st payment, tax/tag/license, acquisition fee (and other dealer "official" fees if you can't negotiate these to 0) ... note, some states require you to prepay your taxes at drive off

Never put a down payment on a lease; Google it

MF and acquisition fees cannot be negotiated lower than the base rate set by the manufacturer

Double check the dealer's math at drive off ... 100% of the "mistakes" I've seen have been in the dealer's favor

Good luck

kath00

Perfect timing! Thanks for this!!

Is it common practice to have a MF that is marked up for the sale to make more money? Or is the MF supposed to be a uniform number from dealer to dealer and sale to sale?

jenz

Residual is the only number that will be the same assuming the car/lease (mileage, years) is the same

Everything else is negotiable and will likely be marked up until you wheel n deal

equetefue

excellent tool. Thanks

newyorktoLA

The MF is standard depending on mileage/term of lease. My salesperson ALWAYS shows me the MF book they get from MBUSA. It's a chart with the money factors laid out in a grid for the mileage and term. Just ask to see the money factor book they get from corporate and that'll show you the MF you pay

jenz

I'm being exact so as not to confuse people ... the residual is the only item that will never be marked up

MF and acquisition fees have base numbers set by MBFS ... IIRC as of today the 'top-tier or buy-rate' MF is around 0.00062 and acquisition fee is 795 for a S550 ... you cannot negotiate either of these lower than these corporate base levels

Dealers (legally) can and will mark up both MF and acquisition fees for extra profit unless you negotiate them lower ... how much lower depends on a lot of things - your relationship with the dealer, time of year, time of month, corporate incentives and credit score plays a big part, too, ie a 600 is never going to receive the top-tier/buy-rate MF

Wolfman

Jenz is spot on. Dealers also have no issues doubling the buy-rate to their retail rate.
By default nobody will be offered the buy rate. There will always be a mark-up. Your negotiating skills reduces that mark-up.

MB also has no issues printing (suggested) retail rates for their dealers...