Why not nitrous?
I installed my system myself. It's a mix of parts I found on ebay, Summit racing, and had lying around. The nozzle is about 2-3" directly in front of the throttle blade. I'm not worried about the 100 shot, it seems fine, in fact I may go bigger, but I'm not sure I'd squeeze all the way down the 1/4. That’s a long time…
The plugs are original w/ 70k on 'em, and oem gap. I bought and modified some new plugs for it, but since these are fine I'll just let it be.
There is certainly a big performance gain, but I guess I had hoped for more.
I have G-Tech accelerometer I could use to find the HP gain, but I live in traffic choked San Diego and it's very difficult to make test runs. I've had nitrous for like 6 months now and have only been able to make a few successful 0-60 runs, and those were ~2AM. It's so difficult that I stopped trying months ago.
Thanks for the opener info. The NOS opener won't fit my valve, not that I'd pay $300 anyway. I'm not sure about the brands you mentioned, but what few I have seen were the same as the ZEX I have. I'll look again.
I installed my system myself. It's a mix of parts I found on ebay, Summit racing, and had lying around. The nozzle is about 2-3" directly in front of the throttle blade. I'm not worried about the 100 shot, it seems fine, in fact I may go bigger, but I'm not sure I'd squeeze all the way down the 1/4. That’s a long time…
The plugs are original w/ 70k on 'em, and oem gap. I bought and modified some new plugs for it, but since these are fine I'll just let it be.
There is certainly a big performance gain, but I guess I had hoped for more.
I have G-Tech accelerometer I could use to find the HP gain, but I live in traffic choked San Diego and it's very difficult to make test runs. I've had nitrous for like 6 months now and have only been able to make a few successful 0-60 runs, and those were ~2AM. It's so difficult that I stopped trying months ago.
Thanks for the opener info. The NOS opener won't fit my valve, not that I'd pay $300 anyway. I'm not sure about the brands you mentioned, but what few I have seen were the same as the ZEX I have. I'll look again.
Bergwerks, designed a dry system for the MBs, Their system ran a 100 shot on Carl's 500E, unfortunately the company closed shop. I've spoken with Gary @ Evosport (he's provided valuable info with N20) and he also recommended going dry, the case maybe using a wet shot on the OEM intake runners may possibly develop puddling and not maximize fuel atomization.
Are you running N20 on the ML320 as well? How are you aware of the potential lean condition, dyno? handheld a/f device? fault codes? I've had issues with the MAFS on my ML, the car felt real sluggish.
Last edited by Richard Galing; Feb 14, 2005 at 01:30 AM.
Richard023:
The ML is my mothers now, bone stock and has a stalling problem that can't be solved. No codes either. I'm sure it's either fuel managment or transmission related because it will stall when put in gear on a cold day. It feels like the tranny has too much resistance and pulls the motor down. I've searched for solutions for months, and tried quite a few things. I even broke down and went to the dealer, no luck. If it's a fuel issue I thought maybe a slight boost in fuel might cure it, so I was wondering how he did it. I guess I’ll need to make a circuit to boost the injector time myself.
BenzoAMGpower:
Mine will spray between shifts, and it’s not always a good thing. The very first time I sprayed was the worst. The 1-2 shift got really screwed up, apparently the motor needs to see a drop in rpm during shifting, and with the shot it did not so there was this big delay followed by a harsh shift. Now it seems to be fine most of the time, but it still shifts quicker if I cut the nos just for a second to let it shift normally. Btw, my switch is on the throttle.
Either way.. Big boom... nothing like coming home to your boot lid halfway through your garage.
Tom
The ML is my mothers now, bone stock and has a stalling problem that can't be solved. No codes either. I'm sure it's either fuel managment or transmission related because it will stall when put in gear on a cold day. It feels like the tranny has too much resistance and pulls the motor down. I've searched for solutions for months, and tried quite a few things. I even broke down and went to the dealer, no luck. If it's a fuel issue I thought maybe a slight boost in fuel might cure it, so I was wondering how he did it. I guess I’ll need to make a circuit to boost the injector time myself.
BenzoAMGpower:
Mine will spray between shifts, and it’s not always a good thing. The very first time I sprayed was the worst. The 1-2 shift got really screwed up, apparently the motor needs to see a drop in rpm during shifting, and with the shot it did not so there was this big delay followed by a harsh shift. Now it seems to be fine most of the time, but it still shifts quicker if I cut the nos just for a second to let it shift normally. Btw, my switch is on the throttle.
Hummm..really no fault codes stored on the ETC, could possibly be the transmission control module needs revised software, I've had this done on my ML. I had (2) stored codes: 120/121, front R&L wheel speed of the traction system is sporadically implausible. If it's a fuel issue, check your fuel pressure to make sure it's at proper PSI. BTW: On your N20 320, the fuel flowing pressure should be 54-61 PSI, anything below will run you lean.
BenzoAMGpower:
As for the electronic throttle control, use a TPS sensing switch by tapping into the line this will monitor the voltage, typically as the voltage increases to 4.6, the car is generating WOT and the N20 is injected and anytime the voltage drops below 4.6 the N20 is shut off.
To prevent spraying thru shifts, use an RPM window switch (MSD or Mallory) set to cut off at a preset rpm before your rev limiter. It should not spray thru the shift, unless your stock shift points are set below the preset rpm or the pill set low. If you miss a shift & hit the limited while spraying = a lot of broken peices. Worse case would be if you spray thru the shift, nitrous & fuel puddles in the intake between the shift, which would make for one huge hit combined with the nitrous to come once you get in it causing a lean spike and detonating the engine.
The ML passed all the tests the dealer threw at it. It runs perfect when cold in neutral/park, and if you can get it to stay alive in gear for two seconds then it's fine thereafter. At temps above 50 or so it's always fine.
It's tough to work on because I only get to play with it a few hours every couple months because it my mothers and she lives out of town.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I have purchased n2o jets as well as fuel jets to be able to get 60rwhp from the small jets , 70 rwhp from the medium jets and 80rwhp from the largest jets I bought. Hi hoping not to have to need the 80hp ser up.. I'm hoping for a 10 second time slip. After that I probably won't even use the bottle again. (It will just be there, like the bottle on my hyabusa.
Nitrous is kinda like growth hormone and steroids ......... A little bit is usually fine , but when you try to abuse it, the outcome can be very negative and costly. I like to go to the track once and a while but have no desire to beat on it by drag racing it regularly.
Also,I spoke to chawkins2001 before ordering my jets etc. Craig is a good guy, he gave me some good advice about how to set up the nitrous. He's also very familiar most mods when it comes to the 211. I'm about to do away with the Kleemann tune and have a custom tune built later this month. Then, split the cooling, considering a meth kit and 3:08 LSD. Should be ready then. Other than having to borrow or buy a drag tire set up. That's something I'd probably only get one day of use out of . Hope I can borrow my buddies for the day
Best wishes for you nitrous set up.
(Barona dragstrip)
http://sandiegoracingmuseum.weebly.c...er-tracks.html
I used it before on other cars, some info in here i would not follow





