Oil leak at air intake to turbo
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
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R320 CDI
Oil leak at air intake to turbo
I've just recently purchased a used R320 with 58,000 mi on the odo.
This weekend, I replaced the engine air filters and found that the air intake hose to the turbo was loose enough that I was able to pull it off without loosening the band clamp.
There's a large, deep and orange colored gasket that seals the intake to the turbo, so I don't think I had an air leak there.
However, there was some oil seepage around the inlet on top of the engine, on the gasket and in the intake. Is this a problem?
I've seen some posts about an oil/separator gasket, but don't know where that is or if it could be a problem.
Any advice on the level of worry here? The engine isn't using oil so far (2500 miles since I changed the oil without dropping on the stick), and I don't see any smoke in the exhaust.
This weekend, I replaced the engine air filters and found that the air intake hose to the turbo was loose enough that I was able to pull it off without loosening the band clamp.
There's a large, deep and orange colored gasket that seals the intake to the turbo, so I don't think I had an air leak there.
However, there was some oil seepage around the inlet on top of the engine, on the gasket and in the intake. Is this a problem?
I've seen some posts about an oil/separator gasket, but don't know where that is or if it could be a problem.
Any advice on the level of worry here? The engine isn't using oil so far (2500 miles since I changed the oil without dropping on the stick), and I don't see any smoke in the exhaust.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14
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From: Waxahachie, Texas
2009 r class bluetec, 90 Acura Integra B16, 91 Mit. Galant VR4, 03 ES300, 89 Maxima, 98 Beetle TDI
just noticed the same thing on my 2009 r320 diesel. The car only has 14000 miles so i think its a factory defect. it almost looks like it was leaking intake air also. My solution was to snug up all the hose clamps including the ones at both air filter boxes, hope that works. Keep you posted to see if it works.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 313
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From: Toronto, Canada
2005 E320 CDI (sold); 2007 R320 CDI (sold); 2008 ML320 CDI; 2014 ML350 Bluetec
just noticed the same thing on my 2009 r320 diesel. The car only has 14000 miles so i think its a factory defect. it almost looks like it was leaking intake air also. My solution was to snug up all the hose clamps including the ones at both air filter boxes, hope that works. Keep you posted to see if it works.
After they replaced intake, everything back to normal ...
I am not sure if it's problem with original intake or if you did fix out of MB and they didn't put back pipe right ...
My advise is to take care of it before you get more problems ...
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14
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From: Waxahachie, Texas
2009 r class bluetec, 90 Acura Integra B16, 91 Mit. Galant VR4, 03 ES300, 89 Maxima, 98 Beetle TDI
Im not sure if anyone including MB has touched the intake. Ill have to go back and look at the carfax I think it said service A was done.
I was doing my first oil change on it and putting my sythetic brand of oil I use and was looking at the engine ( to see what I got myself into by buying another Mercedes) And i noticed what looked like a dirty air vent would look like at the top of the turbo.
Grabbed the hose clamp and ohhhh no.. It was loose
I was doing my first oil change on it and putting my sythetic brand of oil I use and was looking at the engine ( to see what I got myself into by buying another Mercedes) And i noticed what looked like a dirty air vent would look like at the top of the turbo.
Grabbed the hose clamp and ohhhh no.. It was loose
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9
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R320
I have a 2009 R320 with 100 000kms. Car was purchased from South Carolina. Great drive. Brought it to MB in Buffalo. Tech told me the rear main seal was leaking...$1000 fix. Car did not drip for 2 months. Then it started again. I had confirmation the Turbo Seal was repaired however upon taking to many mechanics I was told it was the rear main seal...AGAIN. After seeing a specialist in the Deisel engine game it was determined that the seal near the turbo seal was not sealing properly...MBs seal is not great. So we used a Jeep part..now we wait as the plumbing around the engine drains the oil right over the rear seal...so what looks like a rear seal is not correct. Now we wait and see. wish me luck. if you had the same problem let me know.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
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R320 CDI
Oil leak
I discovered that the oil at the turbo intake is from the EGR system. It's drawn back into the intake (like on all similar systems) and is burned in the engine.
There is some seepage - apparently some people are being told their rear main bearing is leaking - probably not the problem. My local dealer finds lots of non-existent problems on our car as well - glad I do most of my own work.
If you tighten the clamp at the turbo you risk breaking the intake (don't know why they use such brittle stuff). It has to be kept just tight enough to maintain integrity of the air intake, but loose enough to move with expansion and contraction during running.
There is some seepage - apparently some people are being told their rear main bearing is leaking - probably not the problem. My local dealer finds lots of non-existent problems on our car as well - glad I do most of my own work.
If you tighten the clamp at the turbo you risk breaking the intake (don't know why they use such brittle stuff). It has to be kept just tight enough to maintain integrity of the air intake, but loose enough to move with expansion and contraction during running.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9
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R320
Oil Leak
On the topic of brittle plastic, my "non benz mechanic" handed me the air intake housing...its a large hard plastic item that is like a modern t tube coming from the air filters...well that was cracked from over tightening. Toronto prices for that item $585. US MB dealers $325.
I just don't know why people dont replace broken plastic pieces.
Anyway in an earlier post there is a list of things to do if you see oil.
Don't repair the main seal...its almost never the problem though the mechanic will tell you your crazy because its clear as day. Its more like there is plumbing around the engine that allows the other oil leaks to filter down.
Rob
I just don't know why people dont replace broken plastic pieces.
Anyway in an earlier post there is a list of things to do if you see oil.
Don't repair the main seal...its almost never the problem though the mechanic will tell you your crazy because its clear as day. Its more like there is plumbing around the engine that allows the other oil leaks to filter down.
Rob
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Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 9
From: Woodstock, IL
His 2019 RAM Cummins Turbo Diesel Laramie; Her's 2007 ML320 CDI P3; Mine BMW R1200R
You should check the ML 164 side for what we have all done to attempt to address this issue. That red seal at the mouth of the turbo sucks eggs. As does the crankcase breather system that feeds oil into the air intake system just before the turbo. And yes that plastic duct that connects the air filters to the turbo cracks, not so much from over tightening, but the fact that Mercedes uses PLASTIC on hot oil soaked metal.
I cleaned mine and used epoxy to seal the crack.
So far, some have installed a oil air separator catch can and/or used the "upgraded" red seal.
Several have had their rear main seal replaced because the V shaped engine has a duct molded into the block to drain oils, fuels etc. but it discharges just above the bell housing, and drips down as if it was a main seal issue. Have your tech look at the engine side from behind the drivers side front wheel and they will see the trickle.
By the way, this oil issue will eventually sludge up your intake manifold, breaking the internal swirl motor linkage, or drip down below onto the actual swirl motor, shorting it out. Either issue will cost BIG$$$, but a smart Jeep owner that uses this same motor found there is a $2 Radio Shack resistor you can jump the swirl motor terminal with to bypass it. (The vehicle will go to limp home if the swirl motor shorts out and this gets you going again with no side effects.)
Hope this helps.
I cleaned mine and used epoxy to seal the crack.So far, some have installed a oil air separator catch can and/or used the "upgraded" red seal.
Several have had their rear main seal replaced because the V shaped engine has a duct molded into the block to drain oils, fuels etc. but it discharges just above the bell housing, and drips down as if it was a main seal issue. Have your tech look at the engine side from behind the drivers side front wheel and they will see the trickle.
By the way, this oil issue will eventually sludge up your intake manifold, breaking the internal swirl motor linkage, or drip down below onto the actual swirl motor, shorting it out. Either issue will cost BIG$$$, but a smart Jeep owner that uses this same motor found there is a $2 Radio Shack resistor you can jump the swirl motor terminal with to bypass it. (The vehicle will go to limp home if the swirl motor shorts out and this gets you going again with no side effects.)
Hope this helps.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 9
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R320
do you have a photograph of this catch can???
I changed the red seal to one from Jeep as the Benz ones are crap. The air intake housing is on order but I'm cautious in that it's probably going to break again. So how to you propose to save it?
I dont follwo he jeep owner same motor found at Radio Shack comment.
Please do tell.
I changed the red seal to one from Jeep as the Benz ones are crap. The air intake housing is on order but I'm cautious in that it's probably going to break again. So how to you propose to save it?
I dont follwo he jeep owner same motor found at Radio Shack comment.
Please do tell.
Banned
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 285
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From: \
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Thanks Drummer boy, much appreciated. Fortunately my indy was the one who scoffed at the first "main seal" dealer comment, and guarandamntee he'll be the one doing the fix, not the dealer. This is the same guy who installed a new rear SAM to see if that had anything to do with the rear hatch issue, and since it didn't, he put my old one back in, all at no charge. Good, honest guy.
If he has any doubts, I'll be sure to give you a call. I had less problems with my 24 year old Volvo. Of course, it was a farm tractor compared to the R
Hmm, actually, it was a farm tractor compared to anything.
Digiturbo, I'll check the ML164 group too. Thanks!
If he has any doubts, I'll be sure to give you a call. I had less problems with my 24 year old Volvo. Of course, it was a farm tractor compared to the R
Hmm, actually, it was a farm tractor compared to anything.
Digiturbo, I'll check the ML164 group too. Thanks!
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 9
From: Woodstock, IL
His 2019 RAM Cummins Turbo Diesel Laramie; Her's 2007 ML320 CDI P3; Mine BMW R1200R
Radio Shack part number 2711330 is a 5 pack of resistors. Use one of them to jump the terminals of the swirl motor below your fuel filter area. It fools the ECU to believe that the motor is working and takes your vehicle out of limp home. Great way to bypass an expensive issue if you find yourself in that position.
As for the air intake, I am still trying to come up with a better way, but busy on other projects now. For now, I just snug the hose clamp down, tight enough to seal, but not tight enough to damage.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 493
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84 300d 2009 e320 bluetec (retired)/, now 2012 E350 4-matic blueefficiency automatic
Is there a modification to replace the plastic seal hosing with a metal one? Possible cutting it off and splicing the modified seal adapter.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1
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R320
R320 Turbo Leak
This only applies IF your swirl motor shorts out due to oil dripping on it. Once it shorts out, the ECU puts the vehicle in "limp home" where you only get about 30MPH and second gear.
Radio Shack part number 2711330 is a 5 pack of resistors. Use one of them to jump the terminals of the swirl motor below your fuel filter area. It fools the ECU to believe that the motor is working and takes your vehicle out of limp home. Great way to bypass an expensive issue if you find yourself in that position.
As for the air intake, I am still trying to come up with a better way, but busy on other projects now. For now, I just snug the hose clamp down, tight enough to seal, but not tight enough to damage.
Radio Shack part number 2711330 is a 5 pack of resistors. Use one of them to jump the terminals of the swirl motor below your fuel filter area. It fools the ECU to believe that the motor is working and takes your vehicle out of limp home. Great way to bypass an expensive issue if you find yourself in that position.
As for the air intake, I am still trying to come up with a better way, but busy on other projects now. For now, I just snug the hose clamp down, tight enough to seal, but not tight enough to damage.
Thanks,
Scott
