Rear rotor change help
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
2006 R500
Rear rotor change help
I am trying to change the rotors today on our R500.
Fronts came off with a few sharp bangs of a heavy hammer, pretty straightforward.
Rears - not so much. the parking brake shoes are not letting the rotor come off. Interestingly, the rotor rotates around the hub and the shoes are sliding along the inside of the rotor, but the rotor will not come off the hub and the parking brake cable just pulls out and must be making it tighter.
any ideas? I saw somewhere that there is a star nut or gear that has to be adjusted or loosened before the shoes come loose, but I have rotated the rotor and looked, and cant see anything that looks like it.
Any pointers appreciated - ironically i am trying to change these brakes before I take it to the dealer before 5 today to replace my front air shocks which just let go this week as well!!!
Thanks
Fronts came off with a few sharp bangs of a heavy hammer, pretty straightforward.
Rears - not so much. the parking brake shoes are not letting the rotor come off. Interestingly, the rotor rotates around the hub and the shoes are sliding along the inside of the rotor, but the rotor will not come off the hub and the parking brake cable just pulls out and must be making it tighter.
any ideas? I saw somewhere that there is a star nut or gear that has to be adjusted or loosened before the shoes come loose, but I have rotated the rotor and looked, and cant see anything that looks like it.
Any pointers appreciated - ironically i am trying to change these brakes before I take it to the dealer before 5 today to replace my front air shocks which just let go this week as well!!!
Thanks
Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 89
Likes: 9
From: Birmingham, Michigan
04 C32 AMG (sadly sold), 05 CLK55 Cab, 08 R350 4Matic, 15 GLA250 (sadly bought), 75 VW Westfalia
I realize this is a super-old thread but I wish someone had answered because I just experienced the exact same thing; rear rotors wouldn't come off. I ended up banging on them until they came off, but the e-brake pads almost came off with it. When they did come off, one of the screw/hooks that one of the e-brake pads pivots on kind of tore out of its slot.
This was the first time I'm aware of of the rear rotors being changed on this car (has 125K on it, bought it at 65K), so it could be that a lip wears into the drum part of the rotor that keeps the pads from just sliding out. I also eventually saw the star-nut adjuster once I got the first rotor off, but there wasn't much tightening available so I don't know if that would've helped.
Bottom line is I don't see a way to do this without just banging on the rotor until it gets past the e-brake pads and hoping you don't do any damage. Quite a bit more involved than the fronts.
This was the first time I'm aware of of the rear rotors being changed on this car (has 125K on it, bought it at 65K), so it could be that a lip wears into the drum part of the rotor that keeps the pads from just sliding out. I also eventually saw the star-nut adjuster once I got the first rotor off, but there wasn't much tightening available so I don't know if that would've helped.
Bottom line is I don't see a way to do this without just banging on the rotor until it gets past the e-brake pads and hoping you don't do any damage. Quite a bit more involved than the fronts.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 938
Likes: 53
From: Montreal, Canada
2005 C240 2011 R350
yes you should loosen the e brake adjusting star nut before you try to remove the rear disk, and also adjust it so the shoes are barely touching after you put the disks back on again. This is basic brake repair stuff. You have to line up one of the lug bolt holes over the star adjusting nut and use a flat screwdriver to turn it. Easy to figure out if you are loosening or tightening. Most rear ebrakes use this system and its easy to find what it looks like on you tube
also note that you really really really should change the caliper self tightening torque bolts and torque to 80NM and then another 45 degrees. you can only get them from the dealer. the guide pin is 55nm. if you are going to do lots of repairs may I suggest ALLDATAdiy.
also note that you really really really should change the caliper self tightening torque bolts and torque to 80NM and then another 45 degrees. you can only get them from the dealer. the guide pin is 55nm. if you are going to do lots of repairs may I suggest ALLDATAdiy.
Last edited by efzauner; Nov 14, 2016 at 09:34 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
+1 - back off the adjuster and they come easy-peasy every time.
The benefit of German cars is that you can access the e-brake adjuster from the outer face. North American cars you have to access from behind - that's a lot more difficult.
The benefit of German cars is that you can access the e-brake adjuster from the outer face. North American cars you have to access from behind - that's a lot more difficult.
