2011 door panel removal?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SW Ontario, Canada
2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
2011 door panel removal?
Hi folks, new here...looking for some info on the drivers door panel removal. I realize there are standard push clips holding the base, but surely some portion of the latch assembly or something has a bolt hiding behind it to enable the pulling shut without ripping off the panel.....whats the secret? What do I need to remove in order to access said hidden bolt? 
Thanks! Great looking forum!
Thanks! Great looking forum!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 28
From: Seattle, WA
99 ML430, 01 CLK55, 07 R63, 15 E63 Wagon
I pulled all four of my door panels a few months ago. Check out post #18 and further to see pictures of the door panels removed and how the panels sit onto the door frame:
https://mbworld.org/forums/r63-amg-w...to-thread.html
For the front panels, you have the one bolt is hidden behind the lock/unlock button. In order to get this button out, you have to pull out the thin black trim that seprates the lock and unlock functions- this allows you to pull the button assembly out. the screw is hidden behind it. Then you've got to work out all the clips surrounding the trim and pull the door panel up, as there's a hand that sits onto that metal handle/mount that you see in the center of my door on post #24.
If you need to do the rear panel it's the same concept except the one screw is hidden behind the tweeter (right in front of the chrome door handle). You just have to remove the mesh grille and then you can access it.
Hope that helps! What are you trying to accomplish by removing the panel?
https://mbworld.org/forums/r63-amg-w...to-thread.html
For the front panels, you have the one bolt is hidden behind the lock/unlock button. In order to get this button out, you have to pull out the thin black trim that seprates the lock and unlock functions- this allows you to pull the button assembly out. the screw is hidden behind it. Then you've got to work out all the clips surrounding the trim and pull the door panel up, as there's a hand that sits onto that metal handle/mount that you see in the center of my door on post #24.
If you need to do the rear panel it's the same concept except the one screw is hidden behind the tweeter (right in front of the chrome door handle). You just have to remove the mesh grille and then you can access it.
Hope that helps! What are you trying to accomplish by removing the panel?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SW Ontario, Canada
2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
Lol! Believe it or not...I figured it out and was just coming in to post my success! I did, however, manage to snap the lower middle clip HOLDERS...argh! I pulled them out after removing the door panel and pulled out my handy butane torch and plastic welded them back on with some success. I was actually pulling the panels off to plan my upgrading of the stereo..... warranty is over in 1500km....lol!
thanks very much! that lock switch had me baffled for the longest time. wtf where they thinking? lol!
warranty is over in 1500km....lol!thanks very much! that lock switch had me baffled for the longest time. wtf where they thinking? lol!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SW Ontario, Canada
2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
I saw that! Tell me, I saw your pics but couldn't make it out....are your 6.5 JLs sitting on the stock spacer or an aftermarket one? Love to see your sub set up too!!! Is there an amp as well?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,076
Likes: 28
From: Seattle, WA
99 ML430, 01 CLK55, 07 R63, 15 E63 Wagon
The sub enclosure hold the two 6.5s. A custom bracket was built in the spare tire area that allows it to attach to the crossmember that's back there. (I'll make pictures later).
The subs are hooked up to a JL 750 watt amp. The door speakers are all hooked up to the stock amp (per the previous owner).
If I wanted a 100% custom setup all I'd need is a JL 4 channel 600 watt amp, but I find the sound good enough right now to warrant not spending the extra money on another amp and getting that all hooked up.
What are you thinking about doing?
The subs are hooked up to a JL 750 watt amp. The door speakers are all hooked up to the stock amp (per the previous owner).
If I wanted a 100% custom setup all I'd need is a JL 4 channel 600 watt amp, but I find the sound good enough right now to warrant not spending the extra money on another amp and getting that all hooked up.
What are you thinking about doing?
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Russia Kursk city
Many thanks... couldn't find the information how to remove door panel...
I pulled all four of my door panels a few months ago. Check out post #18 and further to see pictures of the door panels removed and how the panels sit onto the door frame:
https://mbworld.org/forums/r63-amg-w...to-thread.html
For the front panels, you have the one bolt is hidden behind the lock/unlock button. In order to get this button out, you have to pull out the thin black trim that seprates the lock and unlock functions- this allows you to pull the button assembly out. the screw is hidden behind it. Then you've got to work out all the clips surrounding the trim and pull the door panel up, as there's a hand that sits onto that metal handle/mount that you see in the center of my door on post #24.
If you need to do the rear panel it's the same concept except the one screw is hidden behind the tweeter (right in front of the chrome door handle). You just have to remove the mesh grille and then you can access it.
Hope that helps! What are you trying to accomplish by removing the panel?
https://mbworld.org/forums/r63-amg-w...to-thread.html
For the front panels, you have the one bolt is hidden behind the lock/unlock button. In order to get this button out, you have to pull out the thin black trim that seprates the lock and unlock functions- this allows you to pull the button assembly out. the screw is hidden behind it. Then you've got to work out all the clips surrounding the trim and pull the door panel up, as there's a hand that sits onto that metal handle/mount that you see in the center of my door on post #24.
If you need to do the rear panel it's the same concept except the one screw is hidden behind the tweeter (right in front of the chrome door handle). You just have to remove the mesh grille and then you can access it.
Hope that helps! What are you trying to accomplish by removing the panel?
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: SW Ontario, Canada
2010 S550 2011 E350 2000 CLK320 convertible 2004 SL500
I ended up running speaker level outs all the way to the back of the drivers side rear corner where we have that huge space....ran them into an audiocontrol line level summer and eq, then into a Kenwood excelon 5 channel digital amp. I am, believe it or not, having EXCELLENT success with the STOCK speakers, re-equalized. they actually sound very good when you drain some of that bass away from them and readjust the mid......I also purchased a used factory sub, installed it in the factory location and use it when I am not running the 2 or 1 Twelve "ers.... this allows me to retain full storage space in a jiffy and all I have to do is tweak the conveniently mounted audiocontrol unit and dial the subs down....works ok...but not as good as the big ones. I was thoroughly amazed at what I could get the stock speakers to sound like re-equed!
