Preventative maintenance high mileage R
01-05-2018, 06:01 AM
#1
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2012 R350 2014 E350
Preventative maintenance high mileage R
Hi guys, my wife's 2012 E350 is about to hit 100k, and along with that goes the extended warranty. I'm used to keeping these things into high 100k's, and was wondering what additional preventative maintenance is recommended in addition to the schedule in the manual. It looks like MB does a much better job than BMW (my winter car is an '08 X5) in regards to trans fluid, etc, but I was thinking along the lines of front and rear diff oil, transfer case oil, power steering fluid, etc. Any additional recs? Thank you in advance.
11-25-2018, 08:54 PM
#4
I have a 2007 R320 with 195.000 Km on the clock. What i have done is this....
1. Flushed the transmission and changed the filter and oil.
2. Flushed the engine. Then drained the old oil, changed the filter with a cheapo filter, filled it up with cheapo oil ad let it run for 10 minutes. Then drained the oil, replaced the filter with a high quality filter and filled up with high quality oil.
This i have done 2 times now. Before i did this i looked down the oil fill hole and all the parts i could see was coverd in black soot/carbon deposit, it did not go away with regular oil changes, like anual service and so on. So a year ago i decided to try engineflush and tried Omega 907 the first time, the drained oil came out thick, really black and gooey. Also the parts i could see in the oil fill hole was also cleaner, but i was not satisfied. Two days ago i did the same thing. This time i used Liqui Moly engineflush and ran the car for 11 minutes and drained the oil. Flushed again with cheapo oil and filter. Then used a MANN quality filter and Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30 oil. After the second flush and oil change all the parts i can see from the fill hole are all shiny metal, and the engine purres like a kitten.
Use quality oil. Castrol has a sludge problem, this is a problem i had i my BMW and in my current R320. Mobile 1 burns off to easy, this is a "problem" i had in my gasoline Honda CRV before changing to Liqui Moly oil. I will continue to flush both the transmission and the engine doing the engine once a year and the transmission every other year.
Also, make sure the plastic cover that runs underneath the windscreen is not lose. Check by pulling on it along the edge that runs along the windscreen. If it is lose much of the water hiting the windscreen will go underneath and end up in the cavity between the engine and the passenger compartment. There are drainholes in this cavity, but they are very small and can only cope with small amount of water, and they are easily clogged. If they become clogged the cavity will become flooded. Also, at either end of the plastic cover there is a drainhole (the botom corner of the windscreen). Take your gardenhose and flush the holes really good to avoid clogging.
Check for rust in and around the tailgate opner switch. If you see rust, remove it and apply a little grease. If you dont see rust, apply grease anyway on metal parts in that area.
Check the battery compartment under the passenger seat for any traces of water.
Make sure the air intake for the passenger compartment is clean and that the drain hole is not clogged. Flooding here will kill the passenger compartment fan.
Pull out the EGR valve and clean it. Remember to replace the old gasket with a new one before reinstaling it.
And lastly. If i were you i would change the front springs if you have them as a preemtive measure. They will breake and doing so it could/will damage the ABS sensor on the brakes when the spring colapses.
1. Flushed the transmission and changed the filter and oil.
2. Flushed the engine. Then drained the old oil, changed the filter with a cheapo filter, filled it up with cheapo oil ad let it run for 10 minutes. Then drained the oil, replaced the filter with a high quality filter and filled up with high quality oil.
This i have done 2 times now. Before i did this i looked down the oil fill hole and all the parts i could see was coverd in black soot/carbon deposit, it did not go away with regular oil changes, like anual service and so on. So a year ago i decided to try engineflush and tried Omega 907 the first time, the drained oil came out thick, really black and gooey. Also the parts i could see in the oil fill hole was also cleaner, but i was not satisfied. Two days ago i did the same thing. This time i used Liqui Moly engineflush and ran the car for 11 minutes and drained the oil. Flushed again with cheapo oil and filter. Then used a MANN quality filter and Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5w-30 oil. After the second flush and oil change all the parts i can see from the fill hole are all shiny metal, and the engine purres like a kitten.
Use quality oil. Castrol has a sludge problem, this is a problem i had i my BMW and in my current R320. Mobile 1 burns off to easy, this is a "problem" i had in my gasoline Honda CRV before changing to Liqui Moly oil. I will continue to flush both the transmission and the engine doing the engine once a year and the transmission every other year.
Also, make sure the plastic cover that runs underneath the windscreen is not lose. Check by pulling on it along the edge that runs along the windscreen. If it is lose much of the water hiting the windscreen will go underneath and end up in the cavity between the engine and the passenger compartment. There are drainholes in this cavity, but they are very small and can only cope with small amount of water, and they are easily clogged. If they become clogged the cavity will become flooded. Also, at either end of the plastic cover there is a drainhole (the botom corner of the windscreen). Take your gardenhose and flush the holes really good to avoid clogging.
Check for rust in and around the tailgate opner switch. If you see rust, remove it and apply a little grease. If you dont see rust, apply grease anyway on metal parts in that area.
Check the battery compartment under the passenger seat for any traces of water.
Make sure the air intake for the passenger compartment is clean and that the drain hole is not clogged. Flooding here will kill the passenger compartment fan.
Pull out the EGR valve and clean it. Remember to replace the old gasket with a new one before reinstaling it.
And lastly. If i were you i would change the front springs if you have them as a preemtive measure. They will breake and doing so it could/will damage the ABS sensor on the brakes when the spring colapses.
Last edited by TerjeR; 11-25-2018 at 09:18 PM.
11-28-2018, 05:25 PM
#5
Member
A German car independent shop recommended flushing the front and rear differentials and transfer case for the 4matic at 100k miles. Many people overlook flushing brake fluid, though it is part of regular service. Lubricate sunroof mechanism and gears.
02-04-2019, 11:30 PM
#6
Member
Good tips by TerjeR.. First Ive heard of a front spring issue.
Don't forget the your pano/sunroof maintenance and the air-matic compressor filter.
Check here https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w25...nce-guide.html for a full R Class maintenance guide. I just haven't had a chance to re-post it here yet.
Don't forget the your pano/sunroof maintenance and the air-matic compressor filter.
Check here https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w25...nce-guide.html for a full R Class maintenance guide. I just haven't had a chance to re-post it here yet.
02-06-2019, 11:16 PM
#7
Good tips by TerjeR.. First Ive heard of a front spring issue.
Don't forget the your pano/sunroof maintenance and the air-matic compressor filter.
Check here https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w25...nce-guide.html for a full R Class maintenance guide. I just haven't had a chance to re-post it here yet.
Don't forget the your pano/sunroof maintenance and the air-matic compressor filter.
Check here https://www.benzworld.org/forums/w25...nce-guide.html for a full R Class maintenance guide. I just haven't had a chance to re-post it here yet.
