S-Class (W116) 1972-1980: 280S, 280SE, 280SEL, 350SE, 350 SEL, 450 SE, 450 SEL, 450 SEL 6.9, 300 SD

1980 W116 300D - purchase advice

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Old 09-11-2012, 11:12 PM
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1980 W116 300D - purchase advice

1980 W116 300D 130k on body, 20k on new MB617 crate motor - wants 5k(high asking price)

Mechanic inspection tomorrow, will also look at records
Service records should have oil/5k, breaks and coolant?/10k, tranny and coolant?/25k, or something close, right?
I was told to do a through inspection of rust, very little rust, amazingly, will post pictures soon. Inspect rubber seals to interior of car, cracked, but hold out water, easy replacement. Inspect all rubber, well since the engine was new, fuel lines are clean, under the hood looked very clean, expect for the oil radiator return line, and a small amount of corrosion underneath the battery, probably from being overcharged.
Upon personal inspection, noticed both sets of axle boots were old, possibly cracked, could not get a good look, oil radiator, or oil return line was leaking oil
I will post pics, what i gather from maintenance records, and engine sound.

Clean Engine

Corrosion under the battery

Dirty line in middle of pic, oil line to oil radiator IE: "The oil is fed to it's own radiator, right next to the coolant radiator. The oil return pipe ruptured on the highway, and the engine seized up."

Rust fix/patch? or seam sealer? Trunk

Bit of rust

Seals felt spoungy, slightly cracked

more seal
Will post youtube of engine sound, what do you all think?
Small spot of rust not pictured on front driver door, will try for more pics, tranny good, shifted great, R/D/R/D

Last edited by xakuvo; 09-11-2012 at 11:46 PM.
Old 09-12-2012, 03:38 PM
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I took the 1980 300D W116 to a mechanic today, before, and after, i told the owner i had not made a decision to buy the car, he seemed disappointed.
They were very thorough at the shop, even showed me things that i can apply to my next, possible, inspection.
the UGLY:
  • windshield cracked/leaking - $170
  • a/c leaks, vaccumm or compressor has small hole, charged in aug. then in 08 and 07, could need replacing - $600+
  • master break cylinder seeping - $400
  • rear flex/drive disk cracked(med.) - $250
  • rear shocks leaked out - $350
  • return oil cooler line leaking-being fixed by owner - $400


the BAD:
  • break fluid caps cracked - $8
  • fuel filter need replacing - $82
  • coolant expansion tank bloated/stress marks/crack - $110
  • front headlight bulb housing loose - $?
  • "sm-med misc trans and engine leaks-normal"... i understand its 40 years old, but normal?


the MEDIOCRE:
  • dash cover cracked - $600+
  • clock and radio inoperable, i knew about clock, didn't test radio, cosmetic - new radio, analog clock, whats that?
  • Left front window and sunroof operate slow - $too much$$ for slow
  • rust spots in driver side door seam, underneath driver side front wheel well, small chips - $10, i can seal it


my PERSONAL notes:
axle boots looked fine, rubber seals on the car needed replacing

owner STILL wants 5k for it,the oil cooler line fix is 400.
what is a good way to test the transmission? besides flooring it and ensuring downshifting?
can i even find a w116 windshield? - DUH, yes, less than $200, should i worry about the seals? windshield seals
decent car, good shape for a 1980, by my assessment. 5k, ouch, OUCH

oh, what this mercedes shop had posted for maintenance:
" 1998 models and above" but im sure it can be applied generaly
SERVICE - MB Recommends - SHOP recommends
oil - 10k - 5k or .5year
particulate cabin filter - 13k - 15k
charcoal cabin filter - 60k - as needed
engine air filter - 60k - 15k
fuel filter - 60k - 45k
chassis lube - n/a - 30k
spark plugs/glow - 100k/4yr - 85k/4yr.
transfer case - n/a - fluid check *4matic
transmission - n/a - fluid
power steering - n/a - fuild/filter

Last edited by xakuvo; 09-12-2012 at 04:04 PM.
Old 09-21-2012, 04:00 PM
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Answer

If you are in the US, and do your own repairs.
* A fair to good condition of the 1980 W116 300SD seems to average $2k - $5k in the US.
Note: The OE Mercedes windshield seals are the only ones that I recommend to seal correctly.
* A glass shop RE: windshield glass $150.00 + factory gasket $177.00
* With any luck, the a/c leaks will be failed O-rings, an easy DIY repair.
* The brake master cylinder is less than $100.00, an easy DIY done by millions of people.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9+01&x=57&y=11

* The rear Flex Disc Kit is less than $100.00, an easy DIY done by millions of people.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2+15&x=37&y=10

* The rear shocks are roughly $100.00 each, an easy DIY done by millions of people.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...I1.x=10&I1.y=9

* The engine oil cooler line leak is a PIA. Factory lines are $100 - $175 each. Many owners have a new set made at the local hydraulic shop for $50 - $90 each.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...I1.x=10&I1.y=9

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...5+82&x=51&y=12

* The cracked brake fluid caps are minor, and cheap.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...90+87&x=50&y=8

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...4+33&x=38&y=12


* The fuel filters are cheap and easy to replace.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...2+01&x=30&y=11

* The coolant expansion tank is under $50.00, and an easy DIY repair.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...15+49&x=57&y=5

* The headlight bulb housing being loose, could be damage, you would need a good used one $100 - $150, a single new assembly is $620.00
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...07-61&x=43&y=9

* The minor misc trans and engine leaks are normal, most can be eliminated through good maintenance.

* The cracked dash is normal, most owners buy a $35 - $75 cloth, carpet or plastic cover. A new dash is roughly $1,000.00
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...803787&x=0&y=0

* The clocks rarely function, and usually fail to keep correct time.
* The radio can usually be repaired by the manufacturer, roughly $100 with three working day turn around.

* The Left front window and sunroof operate slow because they need lubrication, an easy DIY repair.

* This is not a trailer queen, the few rust spots in driver side door seam, underneath driver side front wheel well, and small chips prove it has been a well maintained daily driver.

* Rubber door seals on the car needed replacing

The best way to test the transmission is:
#A1. Driving gently while feeling - noting the shift points.
#A2. At various speeds floor it and feel for the downshift.



Maintenance:
For 1985 and earlier, I suggest:

oil change 3k - 10k depending on your personal preference.
There is NO cabin filter
engine air filter - 15k - 60k depending on local conditions
fuel filters - every year
glow plugs - as needed http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ml#post1019018
Differential - fluid check 50k, replace every 100k
transmission fluid - filter 80k - 100k
power steering - fluid/filter 80k - 100k

roy@pelicanparts.com


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