Clunk in the front end and Transmission leaks.
04-13-2006, 09:47 PM
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Clunk in the front end and Transmission leaks.
I recently acquired a pretty nice 1986 420SEL. The odometer stopped at 120k miles who knows how long ago. It really amazes me that everything works on it, including all the cluster lamps and switch lighting..
Anyway i have a nasty Clunk in the RF when stopping or backing up, and the car feels like it has a mind of its own over uneven pavement. A friend replaced the idler arm bushing today that helped somewhat, but there is still something loose. I know it is not the tie rod ends or the drag link, all that is tight.
Another thing is it is loosing a pretty good amount of ATF coming out around the flywheel inspection cover. I am hoping it could be something simple like a loose converter drain plug.
Found a receipt for a transmission service at some BG Shop a couple of years back.. Just hoping they did not have the correct alan socket to properly tighten the plug.
I got a quote from a specialist in the area to reseal the unit for 775.00, but he said it was so old and hard parts are expensive so i could end up spending around 2k for a rebuild. It is shifting fine and goes right into gear early morning so i think it is still pretty tight inside.
Hopefully you guys can give me some advice
Anyway i have a nasty Clunk in the RF when stopping or backing up, and the car feels like it has a mind of its own over uneven pavement. A friend replaced the idler arm bushing today that helped somewhat, but there is still something loose. I know it is not the tie rod ends or the drag link, all that is tight.
Another thing is it is loosing a pretty good amount of ATF coming out around the flywheel inspection cover. I am hoping it could be something simple like a loose converter drain plug.
Found a receipt for a transmission service at some BG Shop a couple of years back.. Just hoping they did not have the correct alan socket to properly tighten the plug.
I got a quote from a specialist in the area to reseal the unit for 775.00, but he said it was so old and hard parts are expensive so i could end up spending around 2k for a rebuild. It is shifting fine and goes right into gear early morning so i think it is still pretty tight inside.
Hopefully you guys can give me some advice
04-13-2006, 10:56 PM
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1987 300SDL aka the "Money Pit"
Suspension clunks can be a pita to track down. I'd suspect either the upper control arms, or one of guide rod's. But it could be the ball joints on your LCA as well so inspect those.
As for the trans mine was leaking really badly in the manner you described. It was the front main seal. I dropped the trans and replaced the seal last Oct. ($14 seal) The jury is still out as to whether or not I was sucessful because the car has been in storage since then. You can replace just the front seal, I got a quote for about $400 from a shop. I just did it myself though.
$2k is on the high side but certainly within the ball park for a rebuild. I'd be thinking about $1500 myself. Avoid places like Adsitco, I have heard many many horror stories about the crap they sell to people.
These trans are cake to remove and instal, with a lift I think I could swap a trans in one of these cars in about an hour and a half, maybe a lot less. I don't know what book time is but if they try and charge you for more then 3-4 hours tell them to go $%^& themselves.
As for the trans mine was leaking really badly in the manner you described. It was the front main seal. I dropped the trans and replaced the seal last Oct. ($14 seal) The jury is still out as to whether or not I was sucessful because the car has been in storage since then. You can replace just the front seal, I got a quote for about $400 from a shop. I just did it myself though.
$2k is on the high side but certainly within the ball park for a rebuild. I'd be thinking about $1500 myself. Avoid places like Adsitco, I have heard many many horror stories about the crap they sell to people.
These trans are cake to remove and instal, with a lift I think I could swap a trans in one of these cars in about an hour and a half, maybe a lot less. I don't know what book time is but if they try and charge you for more then 3-4 hours tell them to go $%^& themselves.
04-14-2006, 08:58 PM
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I have isolated the clunk to the Guide Rod Bushings. What kind of a job is it to change them? Do they have to be pressed in?
Guess i will try and find a local tranny shop to seal it up. Too much for me to R&R the unit..
Thanks
Guess i will try and find a local tranny shop to seal it up. Too much for me to R&R the unit..
Thanks
04-16-2006, 08:50 PM
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1987 300SDL aka the "Money Pit"
I have not done guide rod bushings in awhile, but I remember one thing, they were a royal pita!
You have to pull the front subframe's off which is easy enough. Just two pretty large bolts hold each one on. The problem is that the nuts are captive and prevented from spinning by some metal tabs welded onto them. Well the tabs were rusted off on mine so the nuts just spun. 6 hours later I had managed to snap the nuts with a cold chisal. The guide rod mounts themselves you just whack out of the subframe, I used a rubber hammer and block of wood to get the new ones in. I guess a press would have helped but I didn't have one and it really wasn't a very tight fit.
If you have not done suspension work before this isn't a beginners project, I'd farm it out. Start with shock replacement and maybe a brake job.
You have to pull the front subframe's off which is easy enough. Just two pretty large bolts hold each one on. The problem is that the nuts are captive and prevented from spinning by some metal tabs welded onto them. Well the tabs were rusted off on mine so the nuts just spun. 6 hours later I had managed to snap the nuts with a cold chisal. The guide rod mounts themselves you just whack out of the subframe, I used a rubber hammer and block of wood to get the new ones in. I guess a press would have helped but I didn't have one and it really wasn't a very tight fit.
If you have not done suspension work before this isn't a beginners project, I'd farm it out. Start with shock replacement and maybe a brake job.
