Starting Up
10-18-2006, 01:52 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SAN ANTONIO, TX
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1982 300SD***WRECKED***, 1990 ford econoline 150, 1986 420SEL
Starting Up
hi.
I have a 1986 420SEL that I can never seem to get started on the first crank unless the engine is warm. Anyone ever heard this?
I have a 1986 420SEL that I can never seem to get started on the first crank unless the engine is warm. Anyone ever heard this?
10-20-2006, 01:53 PM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boston
Posts: 3,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is a German Tank
11-11-2006, 04:12 PM
#6
ON SUSPENSION
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Quite a few:)
chances are your injectors are worn. Next time you start trying pushing the pedal to the floor right as you crank her over. If she fires off your injectors (or @ least a few of them) are most likely leaking down.
Also, when was the last time your ignition system was gone through.. cap/rotor/wires/plugs..speaking of, what plugs are you running and @ what gap?
Jonathan
Also, when was the last time your ignition system was gone through.. cap/rotor/wires/plugs..speaking of, what plugs are you running and @ what gap?
Jonathan
11-13-2006, 03:44 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: SAN ANTONIO, TX
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1982 300SD***WRECKED***, 1990 ford econoline 150, 1986 420SEL
starting up
I am not sure when the plugs/cap/rotor/wires were changed last. All i know is that the wires say 7 mm on them
Trending Topics
11-21-2006, 11:57 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
2006 E320 CDi, 2008 3/4 Ton Suburban, 2007 "rice rickshaw" Accord 5 speed
one step at a time
MB recommends Champions and they are cheap. Change all of them. Gap them right. Be careful not to strip the threads when you screw in the new plugs by hand or a rubber tube.
Next change the plug wires. They are expensive but you should use OEM.
Next check the distributor cap for cracks and if you see nothing spray the whole thing with Son of a Gun or WD 40 liberally.
Use di-electric jelly on old corroded looking terminals. Be careful not to apply too much as it will cause shorting.
Spray the boots capping the spark plugs too to dispel all moisture.
Maybe thats all you need.
11-22-2006, 08:32 PM
#9
ON SUSPENSION
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Quite a few:)
Champions are OK in a pinch, ideally look for a set of copper core Beru's or NGK's (NGK's are getting hard to find). Bosch no longer makes the correct plug for our car (they are all resistors which is NG in for our ignition systems).
You can check the wires w/ an Ohm meter, anything beyond 1.4 Kohms and I'd consider that wire tired/on it's way. Beru is the Only wire to use IMHO.
With the cap/rotor you can usually clean them up w/ a straight edge screw driver or a small file. On the rotor you want to keep the edge as square as possible.
If contacts are corroded clean them with fine sand paper or scotch brite, then apply a light coating of d-electric grease.
If you want to know if the system is arcing, look under the hood one night w/o any lights around, you'll see the spark (even hear it if it's big enough).
Jonathan
You can check the wires w/ an Ohm meter, anything beyond 1.4 Kohms and I'd consider that wire tired/on it's way. Beru is the Only wire to use IMHO.
With the cap/rotor you can usually clean them up w/ a straight edge screw driver or a small file. On the rotor you want to keep the edge as square as possible.
If contacts are corroded clean them with fine sand paper or scotch brite, then apply a light coating of d-electric grease.
If you want to know if the system is arcing, look under the hood one night w/o any lights around, you'll see the spark (even hear it if it's big enough).
Jonathan
