S-Class (W126) 1979-1991: 300 SE, 300 SEL, 380 SE, 380 SEL, 420 SEL, 500 SEL, 560 SEL, 360 SEC, 500 SEC, 580 SEC, 300 SD TURBODIESEL, 300 SDL TURBO, 350 SD TURBO, 350 SDL TURBO

sagging rearend

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Old 06-16-2008, 02:57 AM
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1991 420SEL & 300E, 2003 BMW X5, 2001 740iL all on DUBS
sagging rearend

I really don't drive my w126 that much except when its sunny but one thing I've been noticing over the past couple of months is that the more i drive it the more it seems to sag at the rear! About 2 years ago I replaced all the shocks and even bought those expensive gas-x shocks 4 the rear! The only reason y i've noticed it is because I've been getting more and more tire rub on my back driverside tire. At first i thought it might be because I have custom rims on the car but if that were the case shouldn't both rear wheels be rubbing?

Any way my back driverside tire is balding and my other rear tire looks perfect and ideas on y this would happen?
Old 06-23-2008, 01:12 AM
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1991 420SEL & 300E, 2003 BMW X5, 2001 740iL all on DUBS
R u serious!! no replies from anyone! wow come on W126!!! have u looked at the W124 lately!! we need more conversations!!!
Old 07-14-2008, 04:18 PM
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2010 GL550, 2008 CLK55
I noticed a similar issue on a '89 420SEL that did NOT have the pnuematic leveling suspension like my '91 560SEL has. Swapping the standard rear suspension out for the automatic system is not a realistic option. I have not found a source for higher rated springs, and I was not interested in custom-fitting a non-Mercedes designed part to fit in where the factory part should go - so larger shocks were not an option, either. So, I went to the auto parts store and found these coil spring inserts, and they did the trick. They had large, black rubber ones (almost in an hour-glass shape), but they are TOO big, and you will not be able to spread the coil out enough to fit them in. I went with the smaller ones - available in both metal or rubber. The rubber ones give the best ride, since they actually add to the car's "softness", but the metal ones are much easier to install (put them in sideways, and use a rachet to turn them 90 degrees). They are sold in pairs, and you will want to place them directly across from each other - although because of the shape of the coil, one will be slightly higher than the other. You can add as many as you like, for me, I put FOUR in each rear wheel. It did two things - both of which i wanted to accomplish. One, it raised the body of the car about an inch and a half higher off the rear wheel than before - which to me, simply looked better. Two, it removed an inch and a half of "travel" between the point where the car would 'bottom out', or in your case, where the wheel would rub against the inner fender well. By jacking the car this seemingly small distance, it will likely remove that space where the car is allowed to "give" too far, and hit the fender well. Hope this info helps, these are AMAZING cars. Whenever I drive mine, it has an almost magical feel to it. I mean, when I look out past the dimly-lit gauge cluster, over that huge hood, I think to myself, "This is the view that Heads of State, foreign Dignitaries, Presidents and Presidentes, Kings and Queens, THIS is the same view they had." These cars, these wonderful W126 bodied cars, these are the cars that special people - people who didn't write in the upper half of their checkbook, people who could afford to buy whatever they wanted, people who didn't bat an eye at the cost of anything... THIS is the car they bought. For the sheer size (and cost), these cars played second fiddle only to Rolls Royce. Weird stuff, huh?
Old 07-16-2008, 05:26 AM
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1991 420SEL & 300E, 2003 BMW X5, 2001 740iL all on DUBS
tight! thats really helpful! where did u buy the coil spring inserts? and how much?

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