1990 Mercedes-Benz 300SE Tips and Tricks
#26
I'm an Amsoil dealer, so I think I've got that part covered...
Will do. I'd ideally like to get the thing over to my mechanic and even do a compression test on it, but he only works during the week and I don't have any time to get the car there. I may just have to wing it.
Anyway, thanks all for the info. I have a few good places to get started.
Will do. I'd ideally like to get the thing over to my mechanic and even do a compression test on it, but he only works during the week and I don't have any time to get the car there. I may just have to wing it.
Anyway, thanks all for the info. I have a few good places to get started.
With that I6 you will be able to feel a weak cyl.
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Cool. Thanks for your time.
Should I just ask if the fuel injectors and fan clutch have ever been replaced? I don't seem to remember hearing of a test for either.
Supposedly all the power options, (telescopic steering wheel, windows, locks, tilt & slide sunroof, seats, antenna, and leather seats w/ memory) all work. Also, according to thw owner, the climate control system works great, strong heat & ice cold AC.
Should I just ask if the fuel injectors and fan clutch have ever been replaced? I don't seem to remember hearing of a test for either.
Supposedly all the power options, (telescopic steering wheel, windows, locks, tilt & slide sunroof, seats, antenna, and leather seats w/ memory) all work. Also, according to thw owner, the climate control system works great, strong heat & ice cold AC.
#28
Cool. Thanks for your time.
Should I just ask if the fuel injectors and fan clutch have ever been replaced? I don't seem to remember hearing of a test for either.
Supposedly all the power options, (telescopic steering wheel, windows, locks, tilt & slide sunroof, seats, antenna, and leather seats w/ memory) all work. Also, according to thw owner, the climate control system works great, strong heat & ice cold AC.
Should I just ask if the fuel injectors and fan clutch have ever been replaced? I don't seem to remember hearing of a test for either.
Supposedly all the power options, (telescopic steering wheel, windows, locks, tilt & slide sunroof, seats, antenna, and leather seats w/ memory) all work. Also, according to thw owner, the climate control system works great, strong heat & ice cold AC.
You can ask about the injectors or seats, but as long as the car is running well, you are probably fine. Roughness or other issues are often a result of a vaccuum leak, which can be the injector seats.
If you really want good fuel economy, put a 3,07 differential from a 81-85 300SD on the 300SE, it is just tall enough to give you good fuel economy while still allowing the car to move.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Good to know! All the SD's from those years had 3.07's?
#31
Almost a Member!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Harpenden, Hertfordshire, England
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1996 W124 E320 Coupé, 1990 W124 300E twin turbo, 1991 W126 300 SE, 1984 Ford Capri 2.8i
There's a good general W126 buyers guide and model history here:
http://www.s-klasse-club.de/gb/index.html
Get into the English section and click on the W126 button.
Things I've fixed on the 300 SE I bought at 129k miles 40+ months ago:
* head gasket and valve-stem seals
* flex disks
* rotors/pads
* dampers
* radiator (installed a Nissens at one third of the price of an MB OEM one)
* brake support link and ball joint (front)
* gearbox and engine mounts
I did this on acquisition with long-term ownership in mind. I've little doubt that I could have avoided most of it and the car would have carried on leaking and rattling gently for many miles, but . . .
P.S. My long-term fuel consumption is 20.45 miles per US gallon. I'm a gentle driver.
http://www.s-klasse-club.de/gb/index.html
Get into the English section and click on the W126 button.
Things I've fixed on the 300 SE I bought at 129k miles 40+ months ago:
* head gasket and valve-stem seals
* flex disks
* rotors/pads
* dampers
* radiator (installed a Nissens at one third of the price of an MB OEM one)
* brake support link and ball joint (front)
* gearbox and engine mounts
I did this on acquisition with long-term ownership in mind. I've little doubt that I could have avoided most of it and the car would have carried on leaking and rattling gently for many miles, but . . .
P.S. My long-term fuel consumption is 20.45 miles per US gallon. I'm a gentle driver.
Last edited by RogerJones; 10-29-2008 at 02:51 PM.
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Passed on the 300SE.... Too little info and history, too many questionable repairs...
#33
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
The current owner bought it from a used car dealer, but he knew the previous owner lived a couple blocks from him. He claims when he (current owner) bought it, the head was "shiney" and he assumed it was replaced. The previous owner was supposed to provide all the records to the new owner, but never did. He said the car burns a slight amount of oil, but less than a quart between changes.
The car was also cheaply repainted at some point and the clear coat was de-laminating off the roof, hood, and trunk. No radio, drivers seat was ripped (no big deal), the car stumbled when cold started for a second, and the trans clunked a little in between P-R-D.
The mechanic this owner had working on the car had closed over a year ago and he hadn't done anything to it since. The oil and trans fluid were clean and the car rode and handled nicely, but too many unanswered questions..
What I've learned so far is that I like the W126 cars better than the 300D type cars I originally looked at, but that these are very hard to find, with the exception of the 420/560 SEL's, of which there is a TON of kicking around Massachusetts. I'm not sure given they're gas mileage, they're worth purchasing. I already have two trucks that get the kind of fuel mileage these cars get.
I have a couple of e-mails out to a few of the 420 owners that claim they have records. I also contacted the member here out in NY that has the 380 SE. That's a 10 hour day at least and the price is high given the paint situation.
I guess I should hold out for a clean SD or SDL, but damn they're hard to find and when they're found, every moron on the planet pays for them like they're amde of gold...
In short, this may take a while.
The car was also cheaply repainted at some point and the clear coat was de-laminating off the roof, hood, and trunk. No radio, drivers seat was ripped (no big deal), the car stumbled when cold started for a second, and the trans clunked a little in between P-R-D.
The mechanic this owner had working on the car had closed over a year ago and he hadn't done anything to it since. The oil and trans fluid were clean and the car rode and handled nicely, but too many unanswered questions..
What I've learned so far is that I like the W126 cars better than the 300D type cars I originally looked at, but that these are very hard to find, with the exception of the 420/560 SEL's, of which there is a TON of kicking around Massachusetts. I'm not sure given they're gas mileage, they're worth purchasing. I already have two trucks that get the kind of fuel mileage these cars get.
I have a couple of e-mails out to a few of the 420 owners that claim they have records. I also contacted the member here out in NY that has the 380 SE. That's a 10 hour day at least and the price is high given the paint situation.
I guess I should hold out for a clean SD or SDL, but damn they're hard to find and when they're found, every moron on the planet pays for them like they're amde of gold...
In short, this may take a while.
#35
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
I stopped watching that SDL. The 90-91 SDL's I guess were problematic. Made the "don't buy" list over at the MB Foums even..
![Confused](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
Nope. Wasn't really all that interested. 4 hour drive each way.
#40
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/902437284.html
Might be a winner?
That M110 twin cam is a GREAT engine, and you can still do the diff swap.
Might be a winner?
That M110 twin cam is a GREAT engine, and you can still do the diff swap.
Last edited by Untertürkheim; 11-05-2008 at 09:10 PM.
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MA
Posts: 335
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1987 SDL; 2001 Chevy 2500HD CC, 8.1L, Allison special order; 1970 GTO LS2, 4L60E, under construction
My search is over. Bought a 87' SDL today! Picking it up probably next weekend. Maybe it'll be this week if I can sneak away!
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#42
I've had a 1990 300 SE since 1997 got it used. It needed a new radiator, the new one had a metal brace inside one of the hose fittings. Its been thru several batteries, one starter and a flex joint. It uses oil a bit but at 200000 plus miles runs strong. Im having trouble with the headlights not staying on so I'm running the fog lamps all the time.