DIY tune-up
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
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1987 300 SDL
www.autohausaz.com may be your best friend!!!
Buy the sensors as well. Easy to deal with, as pins holding down pads are a breeze to take out. Get calipers out, but try to tie them to a temp location so as they don't hang from the hose. Rears could be a pain as rust and heat seals them in place, but wd-40 and a few taps or wacks with a mallet will do the trick. Make sure e-brake is not engaged. Bleed the system while at it, make sure reservoir at the master cylinder is all the way up (full) as chamber is divided in two and fluid from front half cascades into rear half, which supply fluid to the rear of the car. A big bottle of brake fluid about 20 oz should be enough flush the whole system. BTW, no need for mitty vacum tools, as someone pumping three or four times and holding down pedal, while you open and close bleeder valve is enough. Check that all calipers are clean and functional prior to re-assembly.
Buy the sensors as well. Easy to deal with, as pins holding down pads are a breeze to take out. Get calipers out, but try to tie them to a temp location so as they don't hang from the hose. Rears could be a pain as rust and heat seals them in place, but wd-40 and a few taps or wacks with a mallet will do the trick. Make sure e-brake is not engaged. Bleed the system while at it, make sure reservoir at the master cylinder is all the way up (full) as chamber is divided in two and fluid from front half cascades into rear half, which supply fluid to the rear of the car. A big bottle of brake fluid about 20 oz should be enough flush the whole system. BTW, no need for mitty vacum tools, as someone pumping three or four times and holding down pedal, while you open and close bleeder valve is enough. Check that all calipers are clean and functional prior to re-assembly.