Looking to buy 560SEC - Need some advice
03-28-2017, 12:33 PM
#1
Looking to buy 560SEC - Need some advice
Hi, Guys
I'm trying to purchase this 1987 560SEC with 80k miles that is listed on craigslist:
https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5990967831.html
I would like to get some info/advice what to check on this car as its an older car? any common issues with them?
How reliable it is?
I really like w126s and would buy it to keep it as its really nice classic coupe.
Seller mentioned that its been stored for past 7 years and was his fathers car.
He doesn't have any service record to it. Radio does not work, has little bit of rust on wheel well/fender. Price seems little bit high - but does it worth it?!
I pulled CARFAX and its weird as it shows 45,500 miles in 1987 as first scan and last scanned was in 2000 with 71k I will attache it here so you can take a look.
I would really appreciate any input on this one, please!!!
I'm trying to purchase this 1987 560SEC with 80k miles that is listed on craigslist:
https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5990967831.html
I would like to get some info/advice what to check on this car as its an older car? any common issues with them?
How reliable it is?I really like w126s and would buy it to keep it as its really nice classic coupe.
Seller mentioned that its been stored for past 7 years and was his fathers car.
He doesn't have any service record to it. Radio does not work, has little bit of rust on wheel well/fender. Price seems little bit high - but does it worth it?!
I pulled CARFAX and its weird as it shows 45,500 miles in 1987 as first scan and last scanned was in 2000 with 71k I will attache it here so you can take a look.
I would really appreciate any input on this one, please!!!
03-28-2017, 01:12 PM
#2
Hi,
I am in the same boat. Looking for a good (not showroom) condition 126 coupe.
I've owned 2 and this is what I can advise you of.
Of course the engine must start and run smoothly. A loud rattle upon startup indicates a timing chain that has stretched beyond allowable amount. Mechanical fuel injection in these cars works well but is prone to wear. Any rough running would point to that, however, at 80k miles, I don't think you will find that as an issue. And a compression check is always a good idea.
The transmission in these cars, 722.2, needs to shift smoothly, up and down. They tended to start slipping at 80 to 100k miles. A noticeable slip, under easy throttle, in the first shift is where they will manifest the problem. Also on the down shift, no throttle, the trans would "slam" into the lower gear. Not a comfortable feeling. If it does not shift smoothly, think "new transmission". https://europeanexchange.com/
Climate control should work well. Don't be distracted by an add that "A/C blows ice cold". It has to maintain temperature at the set point. If you have the heat set at 70 degrees and it is blowing cold air while the interior is below 70, there is an issue. The cost to repair could be between $100 and $2000.
The exhaust system is not longer available. Timevalve will build a complete stainless one for you and the price is considerable. http://www.timevalve.com/cat/us/p19c2.html
Seat Belt Extenders. A very cool feature in the SEC but didn't hold up. Many stopped working after 60k miles. When you open the drivers door, get in and close the door, the seat belt would extend out of the B pillar and basically hand you the belt. When buckled, the extender would retract.
The 560SEC has an automatic hydraulic rear suspension. Adjustable and will correct it's height depending on the load in the trunk or back seat. The pump for the suspension is on the front of the motor and really the only expensive part. Many people are not aware of this feature.
I live in Northborough (near Worcester). There is a used car shop in the next town who has an '87 and an '88 560SEC. One real rough and the other not too bad. There is also an '85 500SEC with 200k miles. I plan on going over to drive it and get a better look. I doubt it is worth the $4500 asking.
Let us know how you make out,
Rick H
I am in the same boat. Looking for a good (not showroom) condition 126 coupe.
I've owned 2 and this is what I can advise you of.
Of course the engine must start and run smoothly. A loud rattle upon startup indicates a timing chain that has stretched beyond allowable amount. Mechanical fuel injection in these cars works well but is prone to wear. Any rough running would point to that, however, at 80k miles, I don't think you will find that as an issue. And a compression check is always a good idea.
The transmission in these cars, 722.2, needs to shift smoothly, up and down. They tended to start slipping at 80 to 100k miles. A noticeable slip, under easy throttle, in the first shift is where they will manifest the problem. Also on the down shift, no throttle, the trans would "slam" into the lower gear. Not a comfortable feeling. If it does not shift smoothly, think "new transmission". https://europeanexchange.com/
Climate control should work well. Don't be distracted by an add that "A/C blows ice cold". It has to maintain temperature at the set point. If you have the heat set at 70 degrees and it is blowing cold air while the interior is below 70, there is an issue. The cost to repair could be between $100 and $2000.
The exhaust system is not longer available. Timevalve will build a complete stainless one for you and the price is considerable. http://www.timevalve.com/cat/us/p19c2.html
Seat Belt Extenders. A very cool feature in the SEC but didn't hold up. Many stopped working after 60k miles. When you open the drivers door, get in and close the door, the seat belt would extend out of the B pillar and basically hand you the belt. When buckled, the extender would retract.
The 560SEC has an automatic hydraulic rear suspension. Adjustable and will correct it's height depending on the load in the trunk or back seat. The pump for the suspension is on the front of the motor and really the only expensive part. Many people are not aware of this feature.
I live in Northborough (near Worcester). There is a used car shop in the next town who has an '87 and an '88 560SEC. One real rough and the other not too bad. There is also an '85 500SEC with 200k miles. I plan on going over to drive it and get a better look. I doubt it is worth the $4500 asking.
Let us know how you make out,
Rick H
04-10-2017, 03:44 AM
#3
Member
It would depend on how mechanically inclined you are.
These cars were buit before the event of microprocessors. So they are laden with small control modules built out of discrete components. After 30 years, thermal paste has degenerated, capacitors have started leaking, and so forth. These can be fixed redlatively easy of you're a dab hand with a soldering iron and a multimeter. There's also loads of 'specialists' that fix them -for a price-, many of them in th UK.
Lots of the stuff we take for granted nowadays were novel in the late 70's. BUT, unlike modern counterparts, a lot of it (doorlocks, vent valves, seat adjustments) woork on VACUUM. Thin plasic hoses are distributet throughout the car. Of one starts leaking, you're in for a big job.
Equally, a lot of the engine's functions are controlled by vacuum. If the idle's rough, oh dear.
Most parts can be sourced new from Mercedes Benz classic parts. Sit down when you see some of the prices. Other tuff can be really cheap.
If you're not interested in / able to fix your car yourself, or do not have exceedingly deep pockets. Think twice.
And DO consider a ppi from a reputable specialist. Buying a dog will Always be more expensive than paying for a ppi.
Pete
These cars were buit before the event of microprocessors. So they are laden with small control modules built out of discrete components. After 30 years, thermal paste has degenerated, capacitors have started leaking, and so forth. These can be fixed redlatively easy of you're a dab hand with a soldering iron and a multimeter. There's also loads of 'specialists' that fix them -for a price-, many of them in th UK.
Lots of the stuff we take for granted nowadays were novel in the late 70's. BUT, unlike modern counterparts, a lot of it (doorlocks, vent valves, seat adjustments) woork on VACUUM. Thin plasic hoses are distributet throughout the car. Of one starts leaking, you're in for a big job.
Equally, a lot of the engine's functions are controlled by vacuum. If the idle's rough, oh dear.
Most parts can be sourced new from Mercedes Benz classic parts. Sit down when you see some of the prices. Other tuff can be really cheap.
If you're not interested in / able to fix your car yourself, or do not have exceedingly deep pockets. Think twice.
And DO consider a ppi from a reputable specialist. Buying a dog will Always be more expensive than paying for a ppi.
Pete
06-01-2017, 12:16 PM
#4
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I'm in the market too and have been looking to add one of these classics to my collection as well. I really don't trust carfax much. Best advise, buy the owner. Usually a owner who has had the car a long time has taken care of it and regularly maintained it. These cars are getting very old so with that being said you have to be reasonable with your expectations if you are working with a lower budget. To me the most important items are exterior and interior condition, the rest I can probably fix myself as long as the bones of the vehicle are good (drivetrain). Good luck!
