Front Shock Replacement
#1
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1997 S-500 Lorinser
Front Shock Replacement
I'm about to replace the front shocks on my 97 S500 Coupe. Being a do it yourselfer, (when possible) I "think" I can do this job myself, and save on the dealer charges. Any of you guy's ever done this job? Is there more to it other than bolting on and bolting on?
#2
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95' S320
#4
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Lesco
I have been trying to figure out a shimmy at 45-60 mph for a long time tires rebalanced (several times) Front end allignment etc. No one ever even sugjested shocks. They seem fine but I think I'll change them just to see if that does the trick. Thanks
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#5
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lesko, Awesome step by step. maybe took 1.5 hours to do the front. DO you have anything like that for the rear? Are they as easy?
I haven't had the chance to get it out on the HWY to see if it fixed/helped the shimmy, but couldn't hurt. I've put over 40k on since buying this car and so I'm sure it was time to change anyway.
Thanks again
Drive on
I haven't had the chance to get it out on the HWY to see if it fixed/helped the shimmy, but couldn't hurt. I've put over 40k on since buying this car and so I'm sure it was time to change anyway.
Thanks again
Drive on
#7
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'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
Front end shimmy can come from many places on these cars;
- Shocks
- Steering Dampener
- LCA bushings
- Ball joints
- Tie Rods
- Wheel out of balance
- Wheel out of true or bent (but balanced)
It is tough to build a 2 1/2 ton car with decent road feel and not pay a price.
At 100k miles, shocks need to be replaced IMHO.
The steering dampener is easliy checked and only requires removal of two bolts. Also relatively cheap to replace.
LCA bushings and ball joints are somewhat more challenging because they require removal of the springs. I would never attempt to remove the springs without a good quality disc-type spring compressor.
Tie rods are usually easy, provided you have a good seperator.
-D
- Shocks
- Steering Dampener
- LCA bushings
- Ball joints
- Tie Rods
- Wheel out of balance
- Wheel out of true or bent (but balanced)
It is tough to build a 2 1/2 ton car with decent road feel and not pay a price.
At 100k miles, shocks need to be replaced IMHO.
The steering dampener is easliy checked and only requires removal of two bolts. Also relatively cheap to replace.
LCA bushings and ball joints are somewhat more challenging because they require removal of the springs. I would never attempt to remove the springs without a good quality disc-type spring compressor.
Tie rods are usually easy, provided you have a good seperator.
-D
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#8
Senior Member
D, I have replaced or checked everything except the LCA bushing. Is there a way to check this? I still need to find a repair manual, I bought 2 CD versions off ebay ( niether worked ). Did you ever get your new wheels?
Rod
- Shocks
- Steering Dampener
- LCA bushings
- Ball joints
- Tie Rods
- Wheel out of balance
- Wheel out of true or bent (but balanced)
Rod
- Shocks
- Steering Dampener
- LCA bushings
- Ball joints
- Tie Rods
- Wheel out of balance
- Wheel out of true or bent (but balanced)
#9
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95' S320
Originally Posted by Rod Spohn
lesko, Awesome step by step. maybe took 1.5 hours to do the front. DO you have anything like that for the rear? Are they as easy?
I haven't had the chance to get it out on the HWY to see if it fixed/helped the shimmy, but couldn't hurt. I've put over 40k on since buying this car and so I'm sure it was time to change anyway.
Thanks again
Drive on
I haven't had the chance to get it out on the HWY to see if it fixed/helped the shimmy, but couldn't hurt. I've put over 40k on since buying this car and so I'm sure it was time to change anyway.
Thanks again
Drive on
http://v12uberalles.com/Rear_Struts.htm
lesko
#10
Senior Member
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Thanks for the link.I don't have the struts but the benworld link got me to a picture type discription that was like the one you gave for the front. The rear are almost the same , should be easy. As always you guys are awesome help.
Drive on
Drive on