3 batteries in 3...
03-31-2010, 08:59 PM
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1998 and 2002 SL 500, 2014 E550 Convertible
3 batteries in 3...
92 500 SEL....3 batteries in 3 months...good thing for warranty!
Car starts right up each time and then one day...not enough power to crank over the engine! Voltage was 11.4 Battery replaced. Happened again a month later and again...
I have been testing the battery/checking the voltage each day after sitting over night before starting.....no sigh of a drop in voletage...
Shop tested the alternator and voltage regulator...working correctly....
suggestions? Am I the only one or do MB's seem to go through batteries!?
Perhaps a drain? What is the easiest way to test for electrical drains?
Car starts right up each time and then one day...not enough power to crank over the engine! Voltage was 11.4 Battery replaced. Happened again a month later and again...
I have been testing the battery/checking the voltage each day after sitting over night before starting.....no sigh of a drop in voletage...
Shop tested the alternator and voltage regulator...working correctly....
suggestions? Am I the only one or do MB's seem to go through batteries!?
Perhaps a drain? What is the easiest way to test for electrical drains?
04-01-2010, 11:19 PM
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1998 and 2002 SL 500, 2014 E550 Convertible
NapaAl...
Isloated the problem using a test light...disconnected the negative battery cable...connected the test light to the negative end and the other end on the negative post....test light stayed on...started pulling fuses until the light went out...(fuse box just above the battery in the trunk) light went dim when I pulled the radio/amp fuse.... pulled out the fuses again to double check...light still on but dimmer....obviously another drain....open the hood and started pulling fuses from that location fuse box....got to number 17...test light went out. 17 is the instrument cluster, hazzard, turn signal/hazzard, flasher, ceiling light? and (steering angle sensor)..whatever that is. So, I removed the cluster, disconnected the harness and the test light stayed on...not the cluster I am thinking if the light stayed on! Back to square one with the other items...turn signal, etc. Used the search function for the steering angle sensor...behind the steering wheel...still...I guess no choice but go to the shop and pay big bucks!
Update:
did another search...turned the steering side to side about 4/5/6 times, resets the steering angle sensor....tried that...test light still on.So, back to square one...suggestions on item 17 anyone? Going to the experts at the MB shop....they will guess also...at my expense. You know...what really irks me is that some of these shops have been in business for 10/20/30 years working on MB's...they KNOW what to look for...but still jack around at times to add the costs' up.
Isloated the problem using a test light...disconnected the negative battery cable...connected the test light to the negative end and the other end on the negative post....test light stayed on...started pulling fuses until the light went out...(fuse box just above the battery in the trunk) light went dim when I pulled the radio/amp fuse.... pulled out the fuses again to double check...light still on but dimmer....obviously another drain....open the hood and started pulling fuses from that location fuse box....got to number 17...test light went out. 17 is the instrument cluster, hazzard, turn signal/hazzard, flasher, ceiling light? and (steering angle sensor)..whatever that is. So, I removed the cluster, disconnected the harness and the test light stayed on...not the cluster I am thinking if the light stayed on! Back to square one with the other items...turn signal, etc. Used the search function for the steering angle sensor...behind the steering wheel...still...I guess no choice but go to the shop and pay big bucks!
Update:
did another search...turned the steering side to side about 4/5/6 times, resets the steering angle sensor....tried that...test light still on.So, back to square one...suggestions on item 17 anyone? Going to the experts at the MB shop....they will guess also...at my expense. You know...what really irks me is that some of these shops have been in business for 10/20/30 years working on MB's...they KNOW what to look for...but still jack around at times to add the costs' up.
Last edited by benica; 04-02-2010 at 12:03 AM.
04-03-2010, 10:32 AM
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1996 S320 SWB, 1998 S600
I remember hearing about an old trick of installing a battery switch, but the Benz is not an old Chevy pickup.
Technically, does a constant drain ruin a battery?
Back to circuit 17. Could it be the clock, or anti theft system?
Technically, does a constant drain ruin a battery?
Back to circuit 17. Could it be the clock, or anti theft system?
04-03-2010, 08:07 PM
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W140
I would look in to the charging current of the alternator, for the size of the battery 100 Amp+, no small issue will kill it overnight, however, if it the charging system when run the engine it will not charge but when you test the voltage it will show FULL 12 Volts but no power. If you want to measure the battery voltage you need to use the load type meter that has a probe on one end and the clamp on the other end. It will load the current of the battery and show you how much juice is left in it.
If it possible try different alternator, if you cannot try changing the only regulator that attach on the back of the alternator.
If it possible try different alternator, if you cannot try changing the only regulator that attach on the back of the alternator.
