Removing the spark plugs
03-06-2006, 08:48 PM
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BMW E39
Removing the spark plugs
So, I've been wanting to remove the plugs to check them out. However, I can't even get started to removing this silver cover...thing.
Do I twist it or something?
Do I twist it or something?
03-06-2006, 08:58 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Yank straight out....it has a clip for the electrode so it might be a little tight...for the plugs towards the back of the firewall you'll need pliers....please review my former post. If you are going to tackle this - please get the pliers. They're indispensable.
PLIERS
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ighlight=spark
PLIERS
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ighlight=spark
Last edited by StapleGun; 03-06-2006 at 09:04 PM.
03-06-2006, 09:03 PM
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BMW E39
Originally Posted by StapleGun
Yank straight out....it has a clip for the electrode so it might be a little tight...the plugs at the back of the firewall you'll need pliers....lemme research my old forum post on this....
Stay with me on this one, I'm gonna need someone who has done the replacement to guide me a tad bit. lol
03-07-2006, 04:58 AM
#5
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Leave the silvery cover on! You need special pliers (available in auto parts shops) to grab the the cable-plugs and pull them off the sparkplugs. It it hard to get them off---never pull the cable. secondly you need to take off the spark coils. Then you can remove the spark plugs with a suitable wrench. It takes about 1 h to do it.
03-07-2006, 08:22 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Spark Plug Removal
If you're systematic and wish to do this job right - It's gonna take a little bit longer than an hour - figure on two hours give or take.
Firstly, have everything on hand, and a COLD engine. NEVER change the plugs hot or warm on an engine with aluminum heads. You'll need Permatex antiseize, dielectric compound, and an air compressor to blow out the holes where the coil pack screws are in and were the spark plugs reside. Chances are there WILL be junk in them and you'll want to blow that out BEFORE you remove the plug. NOTE: The screws holding these coil packs, on some MB automobiles were aluminum and easily crossthread so beware, also you'll need the aforementioned pliers.
Additionally these tools:
3/8" rachet
3/8" extensions BOTH 3" and 6"
3/8" universal
5/8" spark plug socket
Let me point out, if they still have them, at Home Depot they have the the 3" and 6" extensions with a locking feature and are fantastic - they allow you to pull out the spark plug, the spark plug socket, and extension in one shot. Otherwise, you're gonna be pulling on the extension and repeatedly leaving the socket and/or extension behind.
It's not necessary to remove the coil packs, I only removed them to clean up the area since the previous owner was a slob. However, as bamberger advises, never pull on the cable (high tension lead) itself...a set of those 16 cables is about $200.
Firstly, have everything on hand, and a COLD engine. NEVER change the plugs hot or warm on an engine with aluminum heads. You'll need Permatex antiseize, dielectric compound, and an air compressor to blow out the holes where the coil pack screws are in and were the spark plugs reside. Chances are there WILL be junk in them and you'll want to blow that out BEFORE you remove the plug. NOTE: The screws holding these coil packs, on some MB automobiles were aluminum and easily crossthread so beware, also you'll need the aforementioned pliers.
Additionally these tools:
3/8" rachet
3/8" extensions BOTH 3" and 6"
3/8" universal
5/8" spark plug socket
Let me point out, if they still have them, at Home Depot they have the the 3" and 6" extensions with a locking feature and are fantastic - they allow you to pull out the spark plug, the spark plug socket, and extension in one shot. Otherwise, you're gonna be pulling on the extension and repeatedly leaving the socket and/or extension behind.
It's not necessary to remove the coil packs, I only removed them to clean up the area since the previous owner was a slob. However, as bamberger advises, never pull on the cable (high tension lead) itself...a set of those 16 cables is about $200.
Last edited by StapleGun; 03-07-2006 at 02:02 PM.
03-07-2006, 04:19 PM
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BMW E39
Originally Posted by bamberger_1
Leave the silvery cover on! You need special pliers (available in auto parts shops) to grab the the cable-plugs and pull them off the sparkplugs. It it hard to get them off---never pull the cable. secondly you need to take off the spark coils. Then you can remove the spark plugs with a suitable wrench. It takes about 1 h to do it.
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03-08-2006, 02:50 AM
#8
Originally Posted by newton22
Can't use my hands to pull the cover off?
you might be able too, but you will find that some of them just wont come out as you expect. its a lot easier to just use the special pliers, trust us. also, the pliers will come in real handy towards the rear of the engine block as the space is really tight around there. when i replaced my plugs in my c43, space was pretty tight then when i did my s500, i thought that there would more space to work with, because of bigger car..., but the side of the engine space was no different - still very tight. remember you have 16 plugs to pull out, dont overstrain yourself more than you need too.
03-09-2006, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by linuxfoo
you might be able too, but you will find that some of them just wont come out as you expect. its a lot easier to just use the special pliers, trust us. also, the pliers will come in real handy towards the rear of the engine block as the space is really tight around there. when i replaced my plugs in my c43, space was pretty tight then when i did my s500, i thought that there would more space to work with, because of bigger car..., but the side of the engine space was no different - still very tight. remember you have 16 plugs to pull out, dont overstrain yourself more than you need too.
One more question. Does the wrench go in without problems for the plugs in the back? With the space so tight, I was wondering if there would be angle issues.
03-09-2006, 02:27 PM
#10
Originally Posted by newton22
The plugs in the back concerned me when I tampered with the idea of changing the plugs. I've changed plugs on several cars, and this is my first on a MBZ.
One more question. Does the wrench go in without problems for the plugs in the back? With the space so tight, I was wondering if there would be angle issues.
One more question. Does the wrench go in without problems for the plugs in the back? With the space so tight, I was wondering if there would be angle issues.
yes its very tight back there, so what i did was put the socket in first then attached a small extension then the rachet, after the plugs are loose enough, i take out the rachet and unscrew by hand because with the rachet and extension on, you will not be able to get the plug out of the hole. if you changed plugs before, then it shouldn't be a problem at all - basically same procedure, your only contraint is tight space, but keep in mind that there isn't a proper step by step method per say, what worked for me might not work for you, our set of tools could be different, and etc. so it might be a bit challenging, but take your time and see what will work for you. good luck
