Hey Benz Buddies...,

Yesterday while at the Dental office my gear shift locked in place. I am thinking that it can be something as simple as a broken switch, or something closer to a serious transmission issue.

I have an S430 and have had consistent problems with the Instrument Cluster so I was unable to review the Workshop for any warning, but the sound coming from the gearshift area seems like the 'release' for the gearshift is broken.

In the past I remember it sticking a little bit last year when the temparature outside dropped. It would 'stick' when I was first putting the car into drive afer sitting overnight, but after it warmed up it was fine.

Is this a common problem? Something simple? Or am I in for a long 'ride' at the dealership???

Any insight would be helpful.

 

Same thing happened to me this summer, out in the Hamptons, in some one's driveway...

Shifter was getting difficult to take out of park, sometimes I had to try it a few times to get it to release.

Finally it got so bad, it took me 20 minutes of pulling and jerking to get it out of park, it was the weekend, so I left the car in "N" and left the key in the ignition, that was the only way I could get around.

Later that night, a few drinks later and what ever, I pull into my friends driveway, slam it into "P"... then I was like ****, so I push the brake, pull the lever and it moves fine... I was so happy, I slam it into "P" again, and guess what, it never came out of there.

Long story short, called MB, spoke to every one up the chain, yelling and screaming, they said there is absolutely no emergency release, so if the battery is dead, you are out of luck too.

The towed it to MB Southampton, where the guy said I have to wait for 8 days to even have the car looked at. Screw that. Had them tow it to Smithtown Competition MB, they checked it out, said the solenoid in the ESM (electronic shifter module) is broken, they cant take the module apart so they have to order a new one.

Took the module 3 days to arrive at the dealer, 3 hours of labor to tear apart the center console and pull out the ESM and swap it with the new one.

It would have been a $1300 job + $290 towing if it was not for StarMark.

Mine exhibited the same thing as yours, you press the gas pedal, yes that sensor works fine because your brake lights come on. You can also hear the solenoid in the ESM clicking, but it does not unlatch all the way and that's why the shifter is locked.

I've read around on the internet, and a few tricks I heard were to take the shifter know off, and bang on the shifter column gently with a rubber mallet while pressing the brake and trying to pull it into "R" might unlock it. If not, there is a few torx screws ontop of the ESM that you can take apart and I am not sure if you can access the solenoid through that.

They would not give me my old ESM back because they have to return it to MB to get credited, but if you don't have the warantee and have to buy one, maybe you can tear apart your old one and see what's inside?

I've read online people spraying WD40 in the ESM to unlock it, DO NOT DO IT!

 

If you have some tools, time and some mechanical skills, I would advise you to do the work your self.

When you disconnect the electrical connections to the ESM, it will trigger a fault and you will get the CEL. You dont need SDS to clear it out, any MB compatible scanner will erase that fault.

If you are brave enough to do it, here's what to do, in 3 steps:



1 Move selector lever into position "N".
2 Remove selector lever handle.
3 Remove shift gate cover (1) with plastic wedge.
4 Disconnect connector from rear of shift gate cover (1).

NOTE: Installation: Ensure that locking springs (3) are fastened correctly in electronic selector lever control module (N15/5)

5 Pull shift lever cover (2) at rear center uniformly off of clips (4).
6 Disconnect connectors from rear of cover on shift lever (2)
7 Remove cover from gearshift lever (2).
8 Install in the reverse order.





1 Remove selector lever cover (8)
NOTE: Selector lever in position "D"
2 Open front stowage compartment cover (10) on stowage compartment in front of selector lever, unclip bottom of front stowage compartment (9) and remove.
3 Unscrew screws (1)
4 Unscrew screw (2)
NOTE: Move driver and front passenger seat toward foremost position
5 Unclip upper cover (5) and remove
6.1 Unclip rear compartment nozzle cover (7) on upper rear compartment nozzle (6) toward rear with plastic wedge.

CAUTION: Do not use sharp tool to prevent damage to cover and center console!

6.2 Remove covering (7) with stowage compartment upward toward rear.
6.3 Remove button control unit for rear air conditioning system
7 Disconnect connector from rear compartment nozzle adjustment illumination
8 Remove rear compartment nozzle (6)
9 Disconnect connector from stowage compartment illumination.
10 Disconnect connectors from telephone system.
11 Lift rear center console (3) and move out to instrument panel
NOTE: Cover (10) closed
12 Install in the reverse order.




Remove/install

Danger:

* Lethal injuries are possible if vehicle slips off of lifting platform
* Align vehicle between the columns of the lifting platform and position the four support plates at the lifting platform support points specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

NOTE:

* The vehicle must be horizontal
* Park vehicle on two-/four-column lift platform or over inspection pit.

CAUTION: Installation: Replace self-locking nuts and bolts.

1 Move selector lever into position "R"
2 Turn key in electronic ignition lock EIS into position "O".

NOTE: Key cannot be withdrawn.

3.1 Remove shift rod

* Model 230

3.2 Detach shift rod at intermediate lever
4.1 Remove cover at selector lever

* Model 230

4.2 Remove center console

* Model 215
* Model 220

5 Remove air duct for center rear compartment air nozzle

* Models 215, 220

NOTE: Not if rear air conditioning (code 582) fitted.

6 Unscrew bolts (41)

* Model 230

7 Unscrew hexagon socket bolts (40)

NOTE: Model 230: Use hexagon socket wrench with ball head.

8 Disconnect electric couplings at electronic selector lever module (N15/5)
9 Release ignition lock cable (1) at connection fitting of ignition lock cable (2)

* Raise locking catch (1b) and push connector (1c) against force of spring into electronic selector lever module (N15/5), turn 90 degrees to the left or right and pull off ignition lock cable (1).

10 Take out electronic selector lever module (N15/5)

NOTE: Model 230: Raise center console at rear.

CAUTION: Installation: Do not jam any electric cables in between.

11 Install in the reverse order

NOTE: After installing, erase fault codes with STAR DIAGNOSIS.

12 Perform function check

Good luck! Enjoy your S-Class!

 

Thank you..

for your devotion to this forum.

I just dont know how useful the data you upload is!
Thank you so much!

 

This is the third or forth locked transmission post I have seen in the past week or two. I'm starting to get worried. BTW: You might want to search and see what others are saying. For the most part, it has been an expensive repair in the $1k+ range.

 

Oxygen, you have no idea how invaluable your post was for me. Honestly, I am way past my warranty so I had every intention on gutting the Benz and finding the problem, but thanks to you I have some direction and dont have to .

This early release of the S class 00-02 has been so problematic that I seriously doubt if I will jump on the first generation of this new S class - but damn..it is a BEAUTIFUL car. I am actually leaning back to Lexus (GASP) and considering another LS.

 

Yah, no problem.

I guess the data that I uploaded is only useful to those that have a locked ESM and don't want to pay $699 for the module and then pay $99/hr to have some one replace it.

Also the more you work on your car the more you start to appreciate it. Once you get under the hood and take of the plastic, you'll realize that this is a car just like any other, nothing special. Sure, it's got a billion sensors and you need SDS for half the car, but underneath that it's just a car. A beautiful car.

 

Hey, good luck and let me know how it goes.

No problem, if you need something else you can drop me a PM or a quicker way is to email me at chris@xipi.net

 

Good writeup Oxygen.

 

I had this happen on my 04 SL500.

It turned out to be the brake light switch. This is a two position switch, with the first position being the brake lights, and the second position being the tranny shift lock. It took the dealer about 20 min. to fix it.

I strongly advise you to get a second opinion before spending the big money.

 

Well what pointed me in the direction of the ESM being faulty were two things: A) The OP stated that he could hear the solenoid in the ESM clicking but not unlocking
B) Most of the posts I've seen on this top said that the shifter first starts to stick and then slowly deteriorates and eventually it does not unlock.

 

Mine clicked as well, and progressively got worse. My dealer didn't hesitate, he went right to the brake light switch and it cured the problem. I think he should at least check it out before buying a new ESM.

 

Very true.

 

I had the same thing happen to my 2002 S500. No matter what I did it would not come out of park. Never gave me any problems before that time. After 2 days I finally had it towed in to the shop. The problem with mine is the sme problem many others have had in the past. If you spill any type of liquid into the shifter it will eventually short out and not allow you take it out of park. You could probably replace the shifter yourself, it is not too hard. Just make sure you buy a shifter from the dealer that is coded to your VIN# or it will not work. I could not get a coded shifter unless I was willing to wait for 6 to 8 weeks for the next shippment from Germany to get to the Dealer. If the uncoded shifter is your only option then after you install it undo the linkage to youor transmission and manually put it in neutral and have a flat bed tow truck take it to the dealer to be programmed. They can reconnect the linkage after coding the shifter or you can have it towed back to your house and reconnect it yourself.

This needs to taken care of pretty quick or you could end up stranded somewhere wher it could cost you a whole lot more. Mine cost me a little over $1300. The part was around $700.00, the dealer charged me $250 to code it to my car, and the rest was labor and towing.

Good luck getiing your Benz going again.

 

So... what is the diagnosis?

 

Well.... She is still sitting in the driveway. I had a last minute trip I needed to take so I went and rented a car to handle my business...
I got tons of useful information from this thread but got a little sidetracked. I have taken all of the parts out and have learned a lot about the car in the process (thanks to Oxygen), and to be honest it is a 'relatively' straight forward job. Once you get past all of the many different pieces that are in the way, and the initial fear of breaking something that would be a b*tch to replace the rest is easy - As Oxygen said, underneath it is 'just a car'. Right now the only thing that I haven't removed is the last bolt holding the shifter housing in place, it has what looks like a kotter pin holding a small rod in place above it. So for fear of not being able to get it back in, and the fact that I am not sure how to get it out, I havent attempted to remove it yet.

I will keep you posted.

 

I am doing the same job tomorrow on mine, i will keep you posted on how i get on.

 

Hi, Oxygen.

Good writeup but iam missing two details.
The ESM is a security reated part so expect problems when trying to buy it.
Ok lets assume you made it. Bought the part and subsituted it by using your guide.
It wont work unless you have access to the MB diagnosis tool to code the new part.
And this is the point where your car needs to be towed to the dealer anyway.

Cheers, Frank

 

I've got a a similar issue but with much more kinks...

Friday night the valet brought my 2002 s500 around to the front of the restaurant with no problems. They turned it off and when I was ready to leave, I hopped in, turned it over, nothing. The dash board lights up like a christmas tree giving me a Check Engine light, & ESP, BAS, Airmatic ERROR messages. I turned the automatic headlights off and tried it again, it started. I got it home, started it up the next day, no problem, ABS light on. Went to the grocery store, came out, wont start. And when I say "wont start" I mean won't crank or anything. Its like having your key in the II possition. I tried it a few times and nothing. So I left it there and walk 2 blocks home. I returned later to see if it just need some time to stop hating me and, it started! But wont come out of park.

I replaced the battery, it started, I turned the wheels lock to lock to erase the codes, & then I turned it off. I tried to start it again and nothing. No crank.

It cranks when it wants to and when it does, its stuck in park. Oh and one more thing...the A/C won't work. I noticed that the A/C display was fading on and off that first night on the way home from the restaurant. When the car decides to crank & turn over, the only thing that will get the A/C to do anything is if I hit the REST button. Isn't this only supposed to work when the cars off to push residual hot air off the engine during over heating? -My temp gauge reads normal btw.

SO....with ALL that being said....PLEASE HELP!! My car has been in the Ralph's parking lot for almost a week & no one, not even the dealer can tell me what to do!

Oh, no one will tow it for me because it wont come out of park...????

H.E.L.P.

THANK YOU!

 

I have the plastic part in stock and I can ship worldwide. Log on to www.monoglobal.com.au to view and order the part.

Internal plastic lever is there to prevent children from inadvertedly moving the gearstick lever out of Park. Removing the lever may cause your car to roll away down a hill with your kids inside.

Choose from original plastic or high strength aluminum. Repairs can be done by any reputable MBZ shop in about an hour or two. No need for recoding with Star Diagnosis.