ibeforreal

It doesn't seem possible that all 4 door lock actuators would go out at the same time. I have replace both my driver's door and the passenger door (those are the two used most often). However, the replacements were about 2 years apart.

Make sure to use your VIN # when purchasing the lock actuator. Also, if you have the actuator already out of the car then make sure the part numbers match the one that you are purchasing.

mycede

Hi I've read several post regarding the door and trunk locks and the only thing I'm sure of is the fuses are ok and so is the key fob (The key fob was just replaced last week son lost my key ) symptoms - dash locks for doors and trunk not working, key fob for doors and trunk not working, alarm works manually locking works. Also I don't hear any noises from the pump when attempting to use the auto locks. 2002 / s430 Thinking its the pump but not sure.

aguevarra

I recently acquired a 2000 S430 that had the same issues...soft door feature, trunk switch on driver door, trunk release button on key fob, rear headrests not folding down ALL NOT WORKING!! After some research, the trunk actuator kept coming up as a possible problem. Took a look at mine and, low and behold, the plastic tabs holding the top and bottom pieces of the actuator were all broken. Ordered a new one and installed it...solved every issue listed!! Just disappointed that Mercedes would use a cheap plastic piece so important in the pneumatic system.

wallyp

First thing to try is to reset the PSE computer. Pull the rear floor light, pull the yellow 20-Amp fuse, wait ten seconds, and reinsert the fuse. Try the locks...

calvinzcarz

Hello. I am a new poster on this board. I recently inherited a 2002 S430 and a 2003 C240. I am experiencing the failure of the central locking function and the door assist on the front passenger door of the S430 as well as hearing the cracking noise coming from the door once when opening it. I can also hear the hissing air escaping from the door when it is being closed.

I have been looking at YouTube videos and searching for internet postings for several days. I have also read this entire thread. Several people mentioned here and elsewhere the aftermarket door actuator diaphragm housing replacement available for $60 - $90 on the internet. It appears to be marketed by a company named Motor King and the part number I would need is D096RKRF (or D100RKRF - not sure the difference).

Some people refer to this aftermarket part very matter-of-factly as a solution for the cracked housing. ibeforreal, in his post above and in his helpful document posted elsewhere states that it only lasted a month or two before it broke. What I am wondering is what other people's experience has been with the longevity of the of aftermarket diaphragm housing?

I know it didn't last for ibeforreal, but are there others for whom this has turned out to be a more long term, if not permanent, solution?

Thanks

Calvin

ibeforreal

Calvin,
The cracking noise you heard was definitely that little white cap disintegrating. The first time it happened to me, my thought was "what the (insert expletive here) was that. I have attempted using the replacement cap at least twice. Personally, I just don't think it is worth the effort. Do yourself a favor and go on EBAY or some other site and find a used actuator. The passenger side actuators are much easier to find than the driver's side. One other thing I would suggest if you choose to go with the replacement cap is to put a couple of zip ties around the white portion of the cap where it breaks after it is installed (I did this for all of my actuators). My thinking is that the zip ties will take some of the pressure off of the white plastic cap. A lot of pressure is sent through that little white cap when the soft close is activated. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

ibeforreal

Calvin,
One other thing I forgot to mention is that until you replace or rebuild the actuator don't use the soft close to shut the door (the broken one). Just go old school and shut it the same way you would any other car. Continued use will eventually have an adverse effect on your PSE pump causing it to burn out. The hissing noise you hear is the air being generated by the PSE pump trying to respond to that door lock actuator. It will hiss until the pump times out.

wallyp

The soft-close actuator is accessible on the bottom of the lock mechanism - the lock/unlock actuator is not. I was not able to disassemble the lock mechanism to replace the lock actuator, and had to replace the lock mechanism. This, of course, also gave me a new soft-close actuator.

If you reset the PSE pump, then see which door doesn't lock/unlock with the remote or dash button, you will know which lock actuator has failed (if any).

If the pump times out several times on any particular actuator, the computer will shut off that actuator to prevent pump damage. Resetting the system by pulling the yellow fuse causes the computer to try that actuator again.

calvinzcarz

Wally, I have read so much now that it's running together, but I believe I have read some people say that fixing the white cap on the soft close actuator will also fix the remote locking problem. Besides being located on the same replacement part, what is the relationship between the two?

Forgive me if this is already answered, like I said it's all starting to run together. Feel free to direct me elsewhere if the answer is already posted.

Thanks.

Calvin

ibeforreal

Calvin,
You are correct. If you fix the white cap the whole unit will work. All the parts work together as one unit (lock/unlock, soft close). The white cap is the soft close mechanism of the unit. However, in order to replace the white cap you will still need to remove the entire unit (at least I did). It made the job a lot easier. Be sure to take pictures because there are lots of little o-rings and springs inside of the white cap. Also, make sure the hose coming from the PSE pump to the unit is not leaking once you take it apart and put it back together. You would probably be best using some type of sealant around the top of the air hose to make sure it doesn't leak.

Incidentally, WIS tells you to roll the window down when replacing the unit (don't know why). I always leave the window up so that I don't either scratch it or break it. Just another little tidbit that might be helpful.

calvinzcarz

Thanks John.

Grateful for all tidbits. I'm leaning toward using the aftermarket white cap and reinforcing it. (If it breaks, I will know you forewarned me!!!)

What would you suggest for sealing the hose?

MB is a new adventure for me, so thanks for the help. I have always been a Volvo guy, but we ended up with these two MBs recently. After I scale the heights of S430 door disassembly - next up will be a small, but nagging oil leak in the C240 - never a dull moment!

Calvin

ibeforreal

As far as sealing the hose you can use basically any type of sealant or glue. You just don't want even the slightest bit of air escaping through the hose.

Bigguy66

Hello MB members. I have read this thread and there is some very good information in here. You guys are smart, me not so much....Long story short, none of the air assist components are working. I can hear the PSE working but nothing else does. It started with the trunk the about a week ago, last night everything quit. When I open the doors the pump comes on, when I close the doors the pump comes on. I have found the PSE but what I can't figure out is how to trouble shoot for leaks. Can someone walk me through a simple way to do this?

All help is greatly appreciated.

wallyp

First thing to do is to reset the system. Find the floor lamp behind the right rear passenger's heels, and pull it from the carpeted wall. Find the yellow 25-Amp fuse near the inboard end of the row, and take it out. Make certain that it is not blown, and put it back in. See if any of the functions now work.

ctravis595

Kev Thompson

wheres your 'adjustment screw' image ? .... i dont think your link is working ...

nissefalk

Hi, I have the same issue as mentioned in this thread but on a 2013 S350d (W222), the front driver door does not soft close, all other doors and the luggage door is working fine, anyone seen this issue on the W222

ctravis595

w222 is an entirely different animal, it’s most likely a vacuum line or pump

wallyp

You are much more likely to get good answers in one of the W222 forums, either here or in Benz World.

Joe Soliz

Change the antenna in the car in the back behind the head liner, my car did the same only worked with key near door then totally stop I changed out the antenna now they work again its not the fob.

R3504Matic

I changed out my antennae in rear headliner in the rear window of the car, but the key fob still doesnt work. Do you have to reprogram once the antennae is changed out?

R3504Matic

This Youtube DIY tutorial is the BEST STEP BY STEP and which tools to use to remove Front Driver Panel and Rear Left Passenger Panel.
Looks like a Mercedes Tech video
Here is front Driver's door removal

Here is rear left passenger door removal

Rich from BenzWERKS is awesome

wallyp

R3504Matic said:
I changed out my antennae in rear headliner in the rear window of the car, but the key fob still doesnt work. Do you have to reprogram once the antennae is changed out?

Remote lock/unlock became intermittent, then ceased to work at all on my 2003 S500. I bought a used antenna amp and installed it over the rear window. Everything immediately worked again - no programming needed.

Did you check the fuse for the antenna booster? F60, under the right rear seat.
Did you check the fuse for the PSE pump? You can check the fuse (which will also reset the PSE computer). Pull the right rear floor light, pull the yellow 20-Amp fuse (F57), wait ten seconds, and reinsert the fuse. Try the locks...

R3504Matic

unfortunately all the fuses are okay. I think I will take off the rear antenna and install another one since the one I bought was used. Luckily I have 2 extras so hopefully it will work

R3504Matic

Does anyone have videos on how to remove front driver door actuator, that is a pain in the butt.
No one shows the part where you have to remove the window rail rivets for it and another bar that has rivets.
any videos from You Tube that covers that part??