Hello! i purchased a set of Lowenhart's for my 2002 S500 and was wondering what I should set my Torque wrench at? Any additional information on changing wheels would be appreciated. I read a post about not having key in so airmatic wont try compensate. Anything other concerns? Thank you!

 

Our Operator's Manual states that "It is imperative that the wheel mounting bolts be fastened to a tightening torque of 110 ft.lb...."

 

and then retighten after @ 50 miles.

 

^I've never done that, but it is probably a good idea...

 

HEY 90LBS SO YOUR BRAKES LAST LONGER

 

But your wheels fall off!

 

Tell me why 90 lbs. of torque would save brakes vs. 110 lbs. ? It's always been common sense that your brakes would warp if your lug nuts were not torqued evenly, but not sure about the torque amount. I open for enlightenment.

 

I'm trying to find out the proper torque spec as well. 90 or 110?

 

Depending on your car, it should be in your Operator's Manual. Mine is clear that the wheels must be torqued to 110 ft.lbs. exactly!

 

Thank you! I'll check the manual.

 

110 ft-lbs.

 

Overtorquing is as bad as uneven torquing.

110lbs shouldnt be overtorquing though...just dont go any tighter!
100-110 is fine.

 

I don't know why Mercedes says the torque should be 110ft lbs. when the maximum torque rating for the bolt itself is 104ft lbs per the hardware manufacturers. I have had to replace all of my lug bolts twice because they were breaking at 110. I agree with 90-95ft lbs. I have been running that torque for 5 years and 30k miles with no issues at all.

 

I have owned more cars than I can remember and can honestly admit that your's truly has never used a torque wrench on the lugs.

 

110 ft lbs OR 150 nm for the non USAs. I have seen many shops overtorque the bolts. They get their impact driver out and just punch the nut all the way in. Under torque and your wheel will fall off. Over torque and you risk damage to the nuts and threads , maybe even crack the wheel? I tighten my bolts by hand (with a cheater bar) and I get very close to 110 ft lbs, usually lower at like 100 ft lbs.

Most cars are 100 ft lbs.

 

I think that that equates to 48 kg so it's about 500nm.

But I will check that because now I am curious. Does it need to be adjusted after X miles?

My SA didn't even know that the diferencial oil must be changed after 3000km. When I request a formal answer stating that it is not need he just replied with a schedule for changing the oil...

 

Wheel lug tightenikng torque IS important. MBZ specified the wheel lug tightening torque high enough to ensure there is no flexing between the hub and wheels or between lug nut and wheel. Any flexing in those areas will lead to fretting corrosion and fatigue cracking and wheel failure. ANOTHER important FACT is dirt.scale. trash between the hub and wheel can and will lead to brake rotor warping. In my over 50 years of owning, driving, and maintaining my autos , having warped brake rotors has never happened. My 1971 Chevy Vega once developed SEVERE front brake chattering when wheel bearing overgrease contaminated the rotors during a long trip from Houston, Tx to Petersburg, Va. Issue did self resolve in about 500 miles on IH 95.

Pls follow MBZ Owners Manual torque specifications, UNLESS non OEM wheels are substituted and specify different torque values. Consistent cleaning of hub and wheel mating surfaces AND uniform 3-pass tightening (just barely snug,, 50%, 100%) will eleminate most ALL rotor warping. Hard braking (real hot rotors) followed by cold water splashing and immediate parking is really very hard on rotors and will cause warping on some cars.