Quadcammer

I don't see what the big deal is with this.

Took maybe 2 hours, no blood, no scratches, and only a little bit of dirt.

No special tools needed.

Now that this is out of the way, I'll say that I decided to change the plugs with only 36k miles. No real reason except for a slight shiver at idle in park. Used NGK 7090 plugs for a total cost of about $45.

Tips: Use a 17mm open ended wrench to pry the plug wires off. On the plugs just past the hump in the valve cover, I found it easiest to remove the coil pack bolt and move the coil pack around a bit to get a better angle. Having only 36k miles certainly made them easier to remove, but it shouldn't be drastically different.

Tools used:

5/8 plug socket with rubber insert
5/8 plug socket without rubber insert
1' long stretch of clear tubing (about 3/8" ID)
3/8" 3" extension
swivel
18" extension
ratchet
17mm wrench for prying wires off
T-25 (IIRC) for coil pack bolts

If you use dialectric grease on the plug wires on the way back on, they will glide on like butter.

Haven't really driven it since, but there is no major change in performance. Haven't really checked hot idle quality.

Plugs came out looking fine, despite my daily trip of only 3 miles.

I'd say you could go 60k miles easy on the factory plugs, but at $50 and 2 hours, It was worth my time to replace.

Gondon

I thought the recommended change interval was 100k? not the 60k that you mention.

Texas993

Good work Oliver! I am likely due for plugs. Although my car was religiously serviced at the dealer for everything, I don't see a record for plugs. Glad you didn't think it was too bad.

I need to clean my ISV on the RUF tomorrow morning. Talk about working in tight spaces...

shellshock

Good call on the NGK, but damn, are those copper? That's cheap. I know their iridium IX plugs are about $7 a pop. I guess if they are copper they'll be fine, just have to replace them much sooner


Also, ALWAYS use a little dot of anti-seize paste on the plug threads. I like to put a pea sized amount and smear it even with my fingers. This makes it thread in butter smooth, and prevents it from seizing up in the head next plug change.

Take your time as well! always start the plug by hand and only use the wrench to snug it up. You don't want to strip out the threads in the head! That will be very expensive if you do. Been there, done that. Damn did I ever feel like an idiot. I was young though. Ended up sticking a helicoil in to make it through my out of state car meet/road rally and came home and swapped a spare head on.

Not my picture, but it shows what I'm talking about:





nice write up Oliver! We need more things like this for these cars!

Quadcammer

Yup, its 100k miles. I'd wager that you could easily go 100k miles without any hugely noticeable degradation. That said, the car runs literally like glass with the new plugs. No shiver at all. At $45, it was worth it, if even for piece of mind only.

Compared to aircooled 911s, the S class will feel super roomy to work on. I haven't had to mess with the ISV yet, but I have cat pipes, and new lifters on deck for the 993. Can't wait for that party.

Good luck and if you have any questions on your plug change let me know.

The NGK 7090 was about $2.80/plug at my local autozone. They are single platinum plugs.

There is significant controversy about antiseize. I selected not to use it based upon the coating that is placed on the plug threads. I don't think it matters much either way.

I did this when the car still had a bit of heat in it, but yes, its a good point to do it ice cold.

Taking your time is very important. I use the 3/8" hose to start threading in the plugs. Impossible to crossthread that way. I also didn't torque the plugs, but I've had enough experience with aluminum heads that I tend to know by feel when its good enough.

Thanks. I'm happy to write up more detailed instructions for this or any other DIY if you'd like them.