So i need some help, and the search function works well here!!!!

here is my issue...my car 2004 S430, will not lock or unlock using the dash buttons or the key, the Rear shade wont work and rear headrest wont work.., i will do my best to spell my issue out

i have checked the fuses under the pass seat, all seem well. i do think, there is some connecting issues here.....i will explain. the pass trunk lid is raised too much, it wont settle flush with the body, which i think might have let rain in the trunk. bc we had a hard rain two night ago...just putting that out there

so when i press the buttons the car does nothing, when i press the key fob, the lights blink and alarm sets. but wont lock or open the truck. i dont hear a pump, i dont know where it is, it might be underwater....i need to locate it... if i out my key in the truck i can get it to open, I then can press the red button on the trunk and the trunk will lower, but doesnt seem to "close" with the trunk red button working, does this mean the pump is ok? or is this a separate motor? i need to locate the pump and hopefully it isn't under water

also, how do i get the trunk to sit flush? why is one side higher? are the hinges bent?

i know this is alot of babbling, but any help would be appreciated...

 

https://w220.ee/Pneumatic_System_Equipment_(PSE)_Pump

 

 

First - the lifting of the trunk lid has no direct connection to the PSE pump, other than that the pneumatic system releases the trunk latch. The lifting is done by a hydraulic pump and strut located in the forward right corner of the trunk.

If the pump is running, but not releasing any of the pneumatic equipment, it sounds as if the pump has failed, or as if the pump passages are completely clogged. My guess is that the pump failure is more likely. A new pump is expensive. If you buy a used pump, it will almost invariably need to be correctly recoded, using SDS, so the operation of the pump matches the equipment on the car.

SDS (STAR Diagnosis System) is the dealer-level computer system needed to do any serious diagnosis, testing, repair, or recoding on your car. You can buy a Chinese clone for somewhere between $450 and $650. If you plan to do any real maintenance and repair on the car, SDS is pretty much a necessity. You can consider the cost to be an investment that will pay you back very quickly by allowing you to avoid paying the dealer (or an independent shop that does have SDS) to do your diagnostics, repairs and maintenance. When you no longer need the system, you can resell it for a significant recovery of the original cost. There are many, many threads on here on this subject.

Lubrication of the hinges sometimes helps level the trunk lid.

Sometimes, the problem with the trunk not opening is that the hydraulic fluid level is low.

If you find the light blue "stickies" area at the top of the page, and find the title that includes "START HERE", and start there, you will find a large collection of past threads and posts covering common problems, including yours.

 

KDAWG - mine stayed up on the passanger rear window side. I went through a lot of wrong stuff. finally it turned out to be the hinges. they were dried out and stiff and would not go all the way down. I did a lot of lubing and that was all it took to solve the problem

 

it might be 2019 ut this worked on my 2003 sl500...I replaced trunk battery and had driver's door start to unlock then locked, had to open with key..now fob works great..I also did windows up and down and turned wheel at first but not key.. Thanks

 

I keep getting sick. Can't seem to catch a break, in that regard.

That said, it seems to have gone away. I'm not going to be able to test it anytime soon, though.

 

Can you please explain the whole reset process? I’ve replaced the vacuum pump, checked fuses and still, no locks, no trunk release, no soft close doors. I don’t hear the pump turning on at all either. I’m assuming at some point the battery was disconnected and the reset process you speak of wasn’t done, would that help?

 

........On the sl, of course you have to have inside cover in trunk pulled back towards bumper and locked in place..also your hydraulic struts on trunk have to be good . And if you're trunk is open the plastic flaps on right and left of trunk need to be flat with trunk...not one or both hanging down ( there is agear that runs on a plastic rack that holds these tight, you can buy these parts off of eBay and replace yourself..you have to search the forums but all is found here with pictures and great people and mechanics that have links to fix almost everything.. it takes time and patience. But this is how I can fix almost anything on my 2003 sl 500 Designo edition..

 

Reset process is required when you replace a battery. Steering, windows, and sunroof - all in the OM.

If you installed a new PSE pump, and the old one had shut down, you likely need to pull the PSE pump fuse (under the back seat) to reset the new pump.

If you've got DAS/XENTRY - then it can tell you what's going on with your new PSE pump.

Why did you replace that pump? What were the symptoms before?

The pump will shut down a pneumatic circuit if it senses an excessive run time on that circuit. That run time = leak, and the pump does it to protect itself. Odds are that this car has a set of vacuum leaks that caused the pump to shut down. Don't just keep resetting the pump - or you'll burn it up, too...

 

You can take this pump apart in the truck without removing any hose's, be careful and it can be done with the information and pictures in forums....if you remove hose's you better tag and number each one and take several phone pic's to get them back in the right place...or you have a nightmare on your hands...if you have leaking trunk and roof seals these pumps can get water and moisture in them....I have taken them apart in trunk leaving the hose body in place and dried out the board and parts with low heat with a hair dryer... Has worked a few times on cars I have done...I also have drilled a hole in lowest area in trunk and inserted a hose in tight with a little silicone for a drain.. I then resemblance pump and electric connectors and check pump...if successful I then bolt back up and cut a piece of plastic garage bag and cover the pump so water if leaking will run off before getting pump wet...this has worked for me and two friends card.. sometimes you get lucky..lol.. just putting it out there...we do what we have to when you can't afford these cars and take them to a shop or dealer, the repairs are very costly.. good luck.

 

Mercedes S-class cars are enormously complex with numerous electronic and electrical components that MOVE hinges, switches, levers, etc. In the U.S. and Canada, owners just do not lubricate the moving parts periodically and they dry out and get stiff and wear, and then operators strain and fail. Annual lubrication of these moving parts will prevent 90+% of 'failures.' Even the "B" level service does not cover all the moving parts that need lubrication. The reason these moving parts, hinges, etc. are not 'self lubricating,' is because adding those bearings would be very costly and often add bulk and weight. and the periodic maintenance is a minor cost/effort and European (especially Germany) countries have much more stringent licensing inspections during which a lot of these lubrications are performed. Their requirements are :essentially 'as new'' while ours are -is it minimally 'safe'. Thanks to Henry Ford and GM, we developed a cult of buying a new car every 3 to 4 years and not doing any detailed maintenance during our ownership period. 'Detroit' figured out how to make cars that worked throughout the pay-off period and everything wore-out or failed shortly thereafter. Henry Ford hired new graduate engineers to spend a couple of years inspecting junked cars to see what components DID NOT wear out so he could make those parts less robust and cheaper. That philosophy led to much cheaper cars to build and reinforced the ' buy new often.'

 

yes.

 

Where is this "Encyclopedia"?

 

It’s at w220.ee

 

A very different Encyclopedia is available at https://www.benzworld.org/threads/w2...quent.1508080/ . Just read and follow the directions to get to a wealth of information, including the resets.

 

Which one of these fuses is the correct fuse to check for the door locks and trunk?

 

That doesn't look like a W220 fuse box...

 

It is a 2003 S430. That is under the rear seat.

 

Okay, in my 2003 S500, the PSE fuse is a yellow 20-Amp fuse located on the end of the yellow block, where the red 10-Amp fuse is located on your car. 20-Amp is correct for the circuit.