Hi!
In comparison to other forums discussion I am sure I have no voltage/current/power problem, the abs sensors are checked and changed and there is no logged errors at the OBD2, breaking switch is OK, the transmission connector that sits in the trany, the conductor and solenoid inside the transmission is changed, the esp+bas+pml module is changed, the TCU/EGS module/unit is changed.
... And I still have the problem with coolant visit workshop, airmatic visit workshop, esp visit workshop and abs visit workshop permanently showing.

I had a abs/esp/bas warning message but didnt care about it and then drowed in heavy rain when the car went crazy, it changed the gear to Neutral, the revs went up to 3000rpm and nothing but the steering was working. I restarted the car it was ok to drive.

I have read posts and none have all this problems at the same time?
I do all repairing and service on my own at my W220 -2000, so if you have any questions of any other problem I would be glad to help.

I would appreciate all help I could get, Thank you.

 

My 203 C 180 Mercedes Benz indicates that the electric stability programme is not available, the ABS light comes on and the Battery alternator light keeps on coming on. I do not know what the problem could be. When that happens even the radio goes off and there is no power. What should I do?

 

SpaceEngineer,

OBDII reader is not sufficient to handle this complex car. There are messages your OBDII can't show.
If you would get out of the guessing game please get a C3/C4 with Star. It will help you continuing your MB DIY and works for later models as well.

Thanks.

Howard

 

To Lebese MS:
You should check the voltage of the battery with a multimeter when the engine is turned off.
Then check if the alternator is working ok by measuring while the engine is running the voltage change when evertything is turned on in the car. If the voltage then is around 13.5-14.2V its not the alternator.

 

your reed valve got clogged and your electrics fried due to water damage.

If you have comprehensive insurance coverage, it should cover water damage.
See this thread

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ins-clean.html

 

Thank you, this is a great forum.

Now I have found solution for almost all of the errors that I had..

The thing I have done and the error on error searching that I can share is:
-Solution for ABS-light and no esp BAS warning visit workshop
I ohm resistor measured the ABS-sensors at the contact at the PLM,BAS,ESP unit/module (The Wheel Speed Sensors are pin 43-44 LeftFront, 18-17 RightFront,27-28 RR, 25-26 LR). And (now I know this measurement doesnt give any information of the health of the ABS sensors) I changed the rear ABS-sensors to new ones and that solved one of the problems.


-Solution for the fan and the airmatic problem, the coolingfan started and the airmaticpump not working.
And the airmatic / coolant visit workshop went away.I then took loose all the relays in the front left fuse box and hit them to the ground just to make a impact so if any stucked relays would shake loose.

-Solution for limp home problem with all the gears locked except for the 2nd gear allowing only a speed of around 40km/h
This was the connector in the transmission that probably got splashed with water and had a shortcut that destroyed the TCU/EGS unit/module (Transmission circuit card) in the right fusebox. This made me open the connector and since the nut for the connector screw is very bad attached. Therefore I turned the whole connector and the thin copper connections inside the transmission got broken, therefore I had to replace the connector plate and measured all the solenoids inside the transmission. The solenoids should all have 4-7 ohms if they are ok.

While I was working with those problems I fixed the A/C-fans noise by hitting the shaft with a hammer so it went up to the original position.

I also fixed the problem with leaking washing fluid by gluing the front headlight washers tight and also replaced the hose that is connected directly on the washerfluid pump and also replaced the weak hose connector where the heater going in to the washerfluid hose.

I had a realy small (not notisable for anyone that is not used to s-class smoothnes) vibration while idle, I changed the spark plugs and no more vibrations.

There was a rattling noise at the front of the engine, I changed the belt pulley and bought a new bearing for the belt tensioner. It became more silent but that was not the problem, it is probably the timing chain guides that is worn out, but I dont realy want to make an such a big effort for a small noise that is only noticed when hood is open.

I also soldered the buttons that is on the handles for Key Less Go, my buttons deosnt work only the trunk one does lock the car. New button and new soldering didnt help so I guess there is some common error since none of the door buttons working. I would be glad if someone had that problem before with all buttons.

PS: Its realy easy to join this forum, and I think all that have any experience of any error should join because even a try to solved a error that was not working is helpful since the reader doesnt have to do that mistake again.

Thank you.