ibeforreal

Interesting. Things like radar detectors always plugged in might keep the car from going to "sleep". At least that happened to me.

kraut56

Well my car doesn't have bluetooth (didn't exist for MY2002), but, but EMI (electro magnetic interference) can srcew up a lot of electronic equipment. In my aerospace experience this is dealt with a very intensive testing program to a MIL DOe requirement.

Fairly close to my garage is my wifi router, and of course cell phones and the like.

Currently after 24 hours the door handles are still "mute", and battery voltage has dropped only .05 V over the last 12 hours, so the "asleep" door handles definately make a difference. Why and how they have gone to sleep is so far a mystery.
It would be nice to find out from other members by reporting how long it takes for their door handles to become "mute".

kraut56

Nothing plugged in, and the car is absolute stock, no modifications that I can find. Boomerang was apparently removed long time ago.

haoz129

My two successful drain to dead occasions:
- Left the tools connected through OBD II interface. One night, battery dead;
- Left doors opened when I painted the car. Two nights, battery dead.

Hope this helps.

Howard

kraut56

thnx Howard!
None of this applies; nothing is connected, and doors are locked.
I always lock within 60seconds, as I have read an SB that says that some cars, if you wait longer, will NOT go to sleep (then a new rear SAM is required). Involved some campaign by MB for W220.

BTW: The battery has never gone flat on me, only with the previous owner, and with him often after a couple of days, but I don't think with him the battery ever got properly recharged.

mtrevelino

If I leave the trunk or a door open on my cdi, the lights shut off after about 45 seconds. Don't they all do that?
Mike T.

kraut56

Yes, the cars do that, and this one too!
The problem is that the car computers/modules or one of them don't go to sleep, i.e. turn themselves of, as they are supposed to do. It is possible some so far unknown consumer stays on, but it is not lights.

kraut56

Interesting; went to Toronto for 4 days, door handles now are mute; to me that means they go mute after 3 days or more, because I have tried after 2 days and they were still alive.

kraut56

With the warm summer weather I am getting more "workish".

The battery drain problem really has not gone away, but I am managing it well with prudent use of the CTEK charger.

ONE OBSERVATION:
The trunk hydraulic system works well opening and closing the lid.

However, I don't think the soft-close works correctly or not at all.
When the trunk closes, the hydraulics bring the lid down, to the pont that when it is closed the right forward corner actually lifts up a little.
Then, the trunk latch engages and locks with a rather noisy "SNAP".
There is no sign of soft closing as on all the other doors. I hear no hiss or air leak, and I have reset the 20A PSE fuse with no resulting change.

I have read all the WIKI stuff on the Benzworl and this site, and found no further clue.

I have now removed the trunk lid liner and looked at the mechanism actuators, and find no obvious damage. Is there a switch incolved that sequences the soft-close?

Any help will help!!

tower

Kraut56:
On my recent purchase of an 04s500, I had a 2.5 amp quiescent draw that would kill the battery in a night. What I found was that it was the opening switch (trunk) was fowled so that it would keep telling the system to open. I suggest you take it out of the circuit (it uses a connector at the actuator so just unplug it) and test it out

Tower

kraut56

thnx!
Which switch? On this model you open it either by the remote key, or it unlocks from the key card proximity; then you open it by pushing the mechanical lock up (in). The OTHER switch is to be able to centrally LOCK the car when using the keyless card.

I am still trying to figure out the mechanical portion of the actuators for their soft-close function, and what if any switches are integral to them.

I checked ALL fuses for current draw, and found none, so I am still vexed that probably the SAM stays awake.

tower

Can you definitely say that it is the convience pump action that is preventing the car from going to sleep or not? It sounds to me like you have reset the pump by removing/installing the 20amp fuse, but have not yet determined if it is the cause of the quiescent current drain.

Pull the fuse and check for a quiescent draw after 30minutes first.

Tower

kraut56

Mhhmmmm;

What I am saying is that I can find no current draw on ANY fuse (not just those for the trunk/doors control fuses, but, as described in one of my threads last year, the current draw on the battery goes to about 1.8 A, then over 30 - 60 seconds goes down to about .8 A, and then snaps back to 1.8A - monitored for more than 1 hour - , which makes me think this is a SAM (or other module) not going to sleep.

The only time it got pointed with the DAS to the trunk was a logged fault of something like ".. time delay between trunk closing and locking exeeded..." .

It just bugs me that that could be related to a SAM (most likely the rear SAM) not going to sleep; so, understanding the switching of the trunk control circuits should help.

HELP!!!

elbe

I also have a 2.4 A draw. I spent all day today diagnosing this. Finally pulling Fuse 24 started lowering the current in steps to about 0.6 Amps. Fuse 24 is the Audio gateway. After re-installing Fuse 24, the Amp draw stay low until you open a door. This activates the CAN bus and re-energizes the Audi Gateway amongst other devices. Closing the door should eventually put all CAN bus devices to sleep but the Audio Gateway stays energized.
Pulling the fiber optic connector from the Audio Gateway will lower the current draw because that plug also has a CAN bus connector in it.
So, I have to find out what CAN bus signal keeps the Audio Gateway energized.

kraut56

Interesting, but .6A is still way too high.

A proper "gone to sleep" car should NOT draw more than .035 - .050 A. as per MB WIS

TUngpiyakul

I have a similar problem with my 2004 E320. It will occasionally draw about 2.2 amps until the battery is dead. I took it to theshop a few times but it stopped before they found the problem. I recently tracked it down to the Central Gateway. It stopped draining after I pulled the fuse to the central gateway (I repeated it 3 times already). To prevent a dead battery, I pull the fuse every time I plan to park the car more than 8 hours. Any suggestion on where to go from here? Should I have the Central Gateway replaced?