Hey guys, man its been forever since I've been on here. Well long story short, in 2011 I parked the s600, threw a car cover over it and took the plates off until I sorted out my personal issues.

FFWD to 2015 and I finally got the bug to bring the ole girl out of the backyard. Basically pulled off the cover put in a fresh battery, added a couple gallons of gas to the tank and tried to start it up. The problem is it just cranks and cranks. I can hear the fuel pump working bringing fuel but im kind of clueless as to where to start looking on this car.

I dont mind bringing it to my mechanic to figure it out but the problem is the car has been sitting on the floor thanks to the ABC so I cant move it until I cycle the suspension. Is there anyone on here who might be able to point me in the right direction on what i should start with first? I read possible crank position sensor but I dont want to start throwing parts at it until I ask here first. Thanks!!!

 

When you let the car sit for that long, all the fluids go bad. Your gasoline goes bad and you need to flush your whole gas lines. Go under the hood and look for a shrader like valve, it should be on the injectors not the A/C line. Press that down while you cycle the key to get the fresh fuel flowing. If it still doesn't start, then while you're cranking, have a buddy go and smell the exhaust, see if theres any gasoline smell, if not then your injectors are prob seized up. Its not like the injectors will performance very well anyways.

 

The previous post gives you a good clue. To have combustion you require fuel and spark. If you're getting fuel to the injectors and it still doesn't fire you have an ignition problem.

Continuing on after fuel is to the injectors carefully pull a plug wire and hold wire to ground. If you see a spark you have ignition. If it still doesn't fire I would suspect an electronic issue, anything from ignition switch to who knows what. At that point you're probably going to require a STAR diagnostic system to find the problem. Good luck with the repair.

 

Basic troubleshooting skills are useful in many life situations, and critical in many. Developing such skills will save you a great deal of frustration and money.

One principle is to attempt to split the possibilities and eliminate one portion.

You have already done that in one respect - you are not trying to make the car function with a bad battery. Keep the battery charged - letting it run down will add new problems and mask old ones.

Once the engine spins over well, but doesn't run, the next split is fuel vs fire. You will need to either use a helper or develop some ingenuity to do a few checks. Some possible checks include:
- Pull a spark plug wire. Easier said than done on the Mercedes. It helps to have a tool that will lift the plug boot from the bottom. If you pull on the wire, you are very likely to damage it. If you can get a wire off without pulling the conductor in two, stick a Phillips screwdriver into the boot, ensuring that it touches the connector. Use the handle to hold the side of the screwdriver 1/8" from the metal of the engine. Have the helper spin the engine - there should be a strong, snapping blue spark from the screwdriver to the engine.
If you have or can borrow an inductive-pickup timing light, you can quickly and easily see if the light flashes as the engine spins.
No spark, no start.
- Add fuel externally. You can use "starting fluid" (spray-can ether) thru the air intake - but there are some risks involved. The spray is obviously highly flammable. Over-use can cause detonation and engine damage. That being said, there are millions of cans of starting fluid used annually with no problems. Find the air intake. Using the straw on the can nozzle, spray a two second burst of ether into the air intake while the helper spins the engine. Any brief running indicates that there is probably spark, but no fuel.

Gasoline now almost always contains 10% ethanol, which is not good for the engine. Ethanol fuel degrades more quickly.

When the fuel pump runs on your car, it is pumping full flow and full pressure, so the old gas and new gas mixture is circulating thru the fuel lines, pressure regulator and fuel rails (the pipes that actually feed the injectors). For the engine to run, the pump must function and the injectors must function.

There can be electrical problems preventing either. There can be fuel quality problems - fuel that has clogged the injectors, fuel that is much less flammable than necessary, water in the fuel, etc., etc. There can be electronic problems - failed crank position sensor, bad connections due to corrosion, mouse/squirrel damage to wires, security system problems, etc., etc.

Your first step should be to determine whether you have fire - check for spark.

 

Thanks for the tips guys!! I hit it with some starting fluid before i left for work today actually and it fired right up. Of course it shut off right after the fluid ran out but Im suspecting I need to put more fresh gas in it. Really hope I didnt clog a fuel filter or an injector or 6.

 

Your old gasoline probably oxidized, and coated your whole fuel delivary system with gunk and varnish. Have you flushed your fuel system yet? The bad fuel shouldn't be sprayed into your engine.

As for shutting down after the starter fluid is consumed. Your ignition system is fine. From all the attempts to start the engine, you might have pulled the old fuel and the gunk into your fuel filter. To check that, just depress the shrader valve on your injector fuel rails and cycle the key to turn the fuel pump on. Fresh fuel should spray out at around 60-80 psi. It should spray everywhere. If all you see is a few dribbles, then you know your fuel filter or fuel lines are probably clogged.

 

you car run MOC fuel system treatment products to clean up the system. I would definitely get the injectors cleaned and flow tested

 

I remember your car by the pizzeria

 

Im sorry brother but I dont remember the pizzeria. Refresh my memory? LoL


And as far as everyone's suggestions I haven't messed with the car yet but if it does turn out to be bad gas and/or clogged something I will have the entire car gone through including the injectors. Only way ill be able to get this bad boy back inline with the mods I have planned for it.

 

tell us about the mods you'll be doing!!

 

Well the car has some minor stuff done to it already drag radials, hi flow filters, johnson cm30 and an ecu/tcu tune by Veloce performance.

The thing is the Veloce tunes on both the ecu and tcu suck big blue you know whats. Actually made my car slower at the track while showing a big number on the dyno. It feels like it hits a brick wall @ 80mph. Didn't do that when it was stock so now that tunes have actually come down in price where Im not selling a kidney for it I plan to have a new tune.

I'd like to do a new heat exchanger out front and a coolant tank in the trunk. Also noticed Speedriven has a SS exhaust setup for the car that isnt ridiculously priced.

Anyone ever try a UPD convertor on the w220? Thats something i want to look into as well.. Basic stuff really but id like the car to go deep into the 11's..

 

Me you oxygen and nick.

4 220's rolling to floyd bennet lol

 

Haha i remember now!!! We met up at Nick's? pizzeria and then we cruised on over to floyd bennet where the 2 600's taught the 500's a lesson. LoL Whats your name again? Forgive me but all the weed has made my memory swiss cheese now. LoL