Replacing the Airmatic shock...
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Replacing the Airmatic shock...
Hello everyone. It's been awhile since I was on here, how's everyone doing? Back for an Airmatic problem. My front right shock started leaking couple of days ago. (Major leak, didn't drive the car) I have already ordered the shock from Arnott and it's coming tmr or Friday. But for the installation, what bolts and screws should I NOT touch? Are there any bolts or screws that will mess up the front end alignment? To take the shock off. Theres only 2 set screws on the bottom and three on the top? I'd love to gather as much knowledge as I can before replacing the shock, as this is the first shock that is broken on this car.
#3
Junior Member
Post from Wallyp;
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...tic-strut.html
My points;
You should remove steering knuckle from upper control arm, there is one ball joint. I recommend separator tool to remove. Ball joint's nut is self locking nut, i think WIS recommends not to use self locking nuts again, i changed mine, it was cut.
New arnot strutt comes with 3 bolts and nuts for top mount.
Bottom part i removed only 2 hex screw on strut, nothing else, then i could put new one with weak force to spring control arm.
When i checked the tightness for hex screws after i lowered the car, they were loose? Be reminded that these screws have torque specification also, i did when the car in ready to go state.
I think alignment can only be changed if you touch the tie-rods which is not necessary for this work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...tic-strut.html
My points;
You should remove steering knuckle from upper control arm, there is one ball joint. I recommend separator tool to remove. Ball joint's nut is self locking nut, i think WIS recommends not to use self locking nuts again, i changed mine, it was cut.
New arnot strutt comes with 3 bolts and nuts for top mount.
Bottom part i removed only 2 hex screw on strut, nothing else, then i could put new one with weak force to spring control arm.
When i checked the tightness for hex screws after i lowered the car, they were loose? Be reminded that these screws have torque specification also, i did when the car in ready to go state.
I think alignment can only be changed if you touch the tie-rods which is not necessary for this work.
#5
Junior Member
Below is applicable to 220 models except ABC or with special protection,
Top mount bolts : 20Nm
Hex bolts, spring strut to spring link : 20Nm
Air suspension Pressure line : 5Nm
Self-locking nut, upper control arm ball joint to steering knucle : Stage 1 20 Nm, Stage 2 : 90 Degrees
Top mount bolts : 20Nm
Hex bolts, spring strut to spring link : 20Nm
Air suspension Pressure line : 5Nm
Self-locking nut, upper control arm ball joint to steering knucle : Stage 1 20 Nm, Stage 2 : 90 Degrees
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information engindin! Can you please explain to me how a self locking nut works? What is Stage 1 and 2? Can I use a regular torque wrench and a regular socket?
#7
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Location: New England
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2006 S430 4Matic
A self locking nut has a nylon insert in the top of the nut that engages with the threads of the bolt you put it on. The nylon insert deforms to the shape of the thread and holds on to it. When you take the nut off the insert in the nut retains the shape of the thread and is not as effective if you use it again. That is why you always replace self locking nuts.
Two stage torqueing is just that. First you tighten the bolt to the torque specification. Stage two you tighten the bolt an additional 90 deg regardless of the torque reading. You can use any torque wrench you wish as long as you know what torque you are trying to set. Nm, or Foot Pounds. Yes you can use any socket you want as long as it does not break.
Two stage torqueing is just that. First you tighten the bolt to the torque specification. Stage two you tighten the bolt an additional 90 deg regardless of the torque reading. You can use any torque wrench you wish as long as you know what torque you are trying to set. Nm, or Foot Pounds. Yes you can use any socket you want as long as it does not break.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Okay so I finished the replacement. All the screw i touched was the top 3 (20Nm) the bottom two hex screws (20 Nm) and the connector. I did not touch any other screw. But the new shock is squeaking like mad when i shake the car or turn the wheel. What can be the problem?
#9
Junior Member
Can be the connector of air pressure line to strut, when i changed mine i had leak overnight which devastated me in the morning, then i realized it was from connector between strut and line.
What i did was, i took old seal gasket for my right door mirror, i cut as little round piece and made a hole on it, then passed through the connector line. tighten a little more torque and It worked, then i use waterproof tape around the connector to protect seal from water. i was sure all around pressure line/connector are free from dirt.
I think correct way for you is to check the leak with the soapy water first.
What i did was, i took old seal gasket for my right door mirror, i cut as little round piece and made a hole on it, then passed through the connector line. tighten a little more torque and It worked, then i use waterproof tape around the connector to protect seal from water. i was sure all around pressure line/connector are free from dirt.
I think correct way for you is to check the leak with the soapy water first.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I feel really dumb right now. I never tightened my lug bolts
Everything is good now (i think). No squeaks the ride feels like an S class. The airmatic raise button works too.
Thank you for all the help everyone!
Everything is good now (i think). No squeaks the ride feels like an S class. The airmatic raise button works too.
Thank you for all the help everyone!
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks John! I was extremely lucky on the bolts haha. Man if that wheel had come off.
Just for your information, the reason my airmatic gave out was because the dust cover broke apart. Dust got in and destroyed the lower seal. That's why when I lift up on the car, it just releases all the air. The dust cover was extremely brittle when I took it off and it literally fell part into bits.
During the installation i had real troubles getting the shock onto the lower ball joint due to the fully extended shock (Arnott sends the shock out fully extended). I didnt want to mess with the nylon inserts or mess up my alignment, so I just pushed the whole lower control arm downwards and slipped the shock over the ball joint. I did try to plug the release valve into the car hoping it would release some air, but that didn't work.
Anyone familiar with Arnott's "Limited" Lifetime Warranty? What is it limiting? Is normal wear and tear considered out of warranty or is it something else?
Just for your information, the reason my airmatic gave out was because the dust cover broke apart. Dust got in and destroyed the lower seal. That's why when I lift up on the car, it just releases all the air. The dust cover was extremely brittle when I took it off and it literally fell part into bits.
During the installation i had real troubles getting the shock onto the lower ball joint due to the fully extended shock (Arnott sends the shock out fully extended). I didnt want to mess with the nylon inserts or mess up my alignment, so I just pushed the whole lower control arm downwards and slipped the shock over the ball joint. I did try to plug the release valve into the car hoping it would release some air, but that didn't work.
Anyone familiar with Arnott's "Limited" Lifetime Warranty? What is it limiting? Is normal wear and tear considered out of warranty or is it something else?
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
I haven't checked with Arnott, but many times, "lifetime warranty" means that it will be replaced every time it fails, sometimes including wear, sometimes not. "Limited lifetime warranty" means that it will be replaced once when it fails.
#16
Former Vendor of MBWorld
More Information on Arnott's Warranty
Arnott offers a Limited Lifetime Warranty for customers in North America and in the European Union. Air Suspension Compressors and orders outside of these regions come with a Limited Two-Year Warranty. Arnott’s Warranty is non-transferable. If a part is defective, Arnott will either replace or repair that part, as long as it is within the Warranty period and proof of purchase is provided. Arnott offers a Limited 30-Day Warranty on parts used in commercial vehicles. Improper use or installation is not a manufacturer's defect.
Arnott is so confident you will be 100% satisfied with Arnott products that it offers you a 30-Day Money Back Guarantee and a 90-Day Return Policy on unused and uninstalled products.
Products purchased through online part stores and auctions (this does not apply to purchases made directly from Arnott) are eligible for that vendor’s warranty coverage only and you must deal with that vendor for any and all warranty or return issues. Arnott requires an original or copy of the Arnott sales receipt.
All returns require an RMA (Return Merchandising Authorization) which is available by calling 1-800-251-8993 or 321-868-3016 X 100.
For complete Warranty details and limitations, please click here:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/upl...nfo%202015.pdf
Arnott is so confident you will be 100% satisfied with Arnott products that it offers you a 30-Day Money Back Guarantee and a 90-Day Return Policy on unused and uninstalled products.
Products purchased through online part stores and auctions (this does not apply to purchases made directly from Arnott) are eligible for that vendor’s warranty coverage only and you must deal with that vendor for any and all warranty or return issues. Arnott requires an original or copy of the Arnott sales receipt.
All returns require an RMA (Return Merchandising Authorization) which is available by calling 1-800-251-8993 or 321-868-3016 X 100.
For complete Warranty details and limitations, please click here:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/upl...nfo%202015.pdf
Last edited by arnottdoug; 07-13-2015 at 12:07 PM.