Another airmatic problem
for women to get a driving license they even had to have a gynecological test http://www.baltictimes.com/news/articles/5904/
I can guarantee a man made up that law, and if you want a laugh, look at the Lithuanian parking facebook page .. this is so real .. they dont give a **** over there
https://www.facebook.com/groups/37201259785/?fref=ts


You can also try "Advanced Search" at the top of the page. Enter the warning message, in quotes, in the search block, and then go down the list at the right bottom of the page to find the W220 Forum and click on it, then click on search.
If you also actually have Airmatic problems, you will find that there are no "magic answers". You have limited choices - you can go to a dealer or to an independent shop who has the Star diagnostic system and pay them to diagnose and repair the problem. Or, you can go to the Encyclopedia thread discussed above ("start here") and spend several hours learning enough about the Airmatic system to be able to make the first guess, and enough to ask meaningful questions.
You can also try starting a new thread, and giving a complete, verbose, detailed description of your problem. There are many very helpful people on the Forum that will be happy to try to help - but you must give us enough information be be able to help. Unfortunately, your question will actually discourage most people from trying to help, as it shows a total lack of knowledge on the system, and a belief that there must be a really simple answer that is the same for every Airmatic problem.
First of all thanks you for answering and taking time to write the above post.
I do apologize for such a small post as I was rushing and thought let me ask the question.
As you said that the error may not be related to Airmaitc but could be a command warning. I really do not understand what is command warning but I will take time to read now. I did not get change to read owner's manual which i have been thinking that I will read at some point but never came round that.
I did spend some time to look into owner's manual for this error but looking at the sign I see in my dashboard and matching that in the owner's manual I came to the conclusion that this could be an Airmatic problem as prior to that I thought that there could be some display issue in dashboard but all look okay to be.
Let me describe the problem.
Few weeks back, I had problem with central locking and soft closing the car. Locking did not work.
After searching and spending time on forums, figured out that it could be a problem with the 20 amp fuse. I opened the bonnet and checked the fuses on passenger side (left side of driver as UK model car), the first fuse and found it to be okay. I am 99% sure that i put back the fuse at same place!!
Then found that the fuse I am interested is in under the rear passenger seat behind driver, found the fuse blown up, replaced it and soft close, central locking sorted but then the this warning came on "Display Defective, Visit Workshop"
Note : The fuse I talked about earlier 20amp, under the bonnet on passenger side, it's been placed in the first slot of a group of first 3 fuse block. so it's like 20amp fuse, then middle slot is empty and then 15amp fuse. Is that right? as I said I did not take a picture before I took the 20AMP fuse out but I just remembered that I took it our from the first lost but then after I had this so called warning on dash board, it raised a doubt if I put the fuse back in same place!!!.
Thanks again and I will read as much as I can.
Airmatic is your suspension
The soft close doors etc are a different system controlled by a trunk pump
The display defective message is a completely different third issue not related to airmatic or the doors or the fuses in the engine compartment or the 20 amp soft close fuse


It is very probable that the display warning has nothing to do with the PSE (Pneumatic System) fuse or problem. Neither problem is likely to be related to the Airmatic (suspension) system.
Reason because I was trying to get the grub screws out of the bottom of the strut so I can replace the ball joint cover, and the allen key broke inside the grub screw and I cant get it out of the grub screw, I thought about spending time to try get it out and knew it wouldn't come, or I would damage the strut, so thought f*ck it .. just buy a new one and hopefully that will solve any remaining problems too.
£185 was not too bad a price I think.
Anybody had any experience with these after market struts ?..
Had to grind off the bottom of the strut, and then grind cross ways so I could split what was remaining of the strut off the ball joint, The grub screws were well rusted in, and rounded off, and one I broke an allan key inside, even tried the heating method but nothing budged them,
I had to get the strut off because the rubber gaiter on the ball joint had perished because of the twisted strut, I didn't realize that I then needed a complete arm as they dont sell the rubber gaiter or the ball joint separate .. nearly £200 from Mercedes dealer
.. but a more palatable £48 if I get one sent over from Germany.So f*ck that .. I made a new gaiter out of an old inner tube
.. worked perfectly. And if I need to get a new arm in the future because the makeshift gaiter doesn't work then so be it, I lost nothing.I put the new chinese strut on .. put it all back together, suspension blew up and all is working fine, even the "Airmatic .. visit workshop" warning has disappeared ..
So I have to agree with what you all said previously ... it does look like the strut was faulty in whichever way to cause the problem.
But at least I know the valve block, drivers front strut new pump and relay are all good now.
Fingers crossed the other side stays good, and I got another 12 months on the road legal
..I just bought a 1972 Triumph Stag to restore .. so got 2 years of problems with that no doubt .. but that's for another forum
Last edited by Kev100; Feb 9, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
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