Need some help diagnosing a airmatic leak
02-13-2016, 12:32 PM
#1
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s430
Need some help diagnosing a airmatic leak
So I have a 2006 S430. 200k miles but has always been very well maintained. Would not hesitate to drive the car cross country.
Past few days I've noticed my rear suspension going down overnight. I've been thinking the rear looked a little low for a while but lately I go out in the morning and it's almost sitting on the axle.
If you stand far away and look at the rear is looks like the left side is slightly lower. The second you start the car it lifts right up. All the buttons on the dash work. No airmatic error on dash or rising message. After I shut it off it holds its stance fine.
Past few days I've noticed my rear suspension going down overnight. I've been thinking the rear looked a little low for a while but lately I go out in the morning and it's almost sitting on the axle.
If you stand far away and look at the rear is looks like the left side is slightly lower. The second you start the car it lifts right up. All the buttons on the dash work. No airmatic error on dash or rising message. After I shut it off it holds its stance fine.
02-14-2016, 08:46 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sounds like a very slow leak in the system. It can be difficult to find such a leak, as there are several possible locations for the leak. These include:
- The main rolling diaphragm inside the left rear strut. No easy way to check this one. Only cure is replacement of the strut, with a rebuilt from Arnott being the most popular choice. About $450, lifetime warranty, and they give a discount for Forum members.
- The connection at the top of the left rear strut. You can use kid's bubble fluid and an artists paint brush to check this quickly and easily. Look on the rear package shelf inside the car behind the back seat, under the rear window. There is a small pop-off cover on each end - just pry off the one on the left side, and you will find the tube and connector.
- One of the air line connectors on the Airmatic valve block. Testing is again with bubble fluid and brush. The valve block is located in the right front wheel well. Remove the right front wheel, then the inner fender liner, and the heart of the Airmatic system will be exposed.
- Internal leak, probably on the valve for the left rear strut. No easy test. Some folks have removed the valve block and disassembled it to check and clean all of the valves. Replacement is another option.
If you have the STAR system, it will be able to give you some additional information.
At this point, you have three options:
Take it to the dealer or a good independent shop that has the STAR system and knows how to use it. They will usually solve the problem, but it will almost certainly be expensive - more so for the dealer.
Do a lot of reading and researching so that you understand the Airmatic system, so that the list above makes sense. Expensive in time, much less expensive in money.
Live with it until the problem gets worse. It is not too likely to turn into a catastrophic failure. Frustrating but free.
- The main rolling diaphragm inside the left rear strut. No easy way to check this one. Only cure is replacement of the strut, with a rebuilt from Arnott being the most popular choice. About $450, lifetime warranty, and they give a discount for Forum members.
- The connection at the top of the left rear strut. You can use kid's bubble fluid and an artists paint brush to check this quickly and easily. Look on the rear package shelf inside the car behind the back seat, under the rear window. There is a small pop-off cover on each end - just pry off the one on the left side, and you will find the tube and connector.
- One of the air line connectors on the Airmatic valve block. Testing is again with bubble fluid and brush. The valve block is located in the right front wheel well. Remove the right front wheel, then the inner fender liner, and the heart of the Airmatic system will be exposed.
- Internal leak, probably on the valve for the left rear strut. No easy test. Some folks have removed the valve block and disassembled it to check and clean all of the valves. Replacement is another option.
If you have the STAR system, it will be able to give you some additional information.
At this point, you have three options:
Take it to the dealer or a good independent shop that has the STAR system and knows how to use it. They will usually solve the problem, but it will almost certainly be expensive - more so for the dealer.
Do a lot of reading and researching so that you understand the Airmatic system, so that the list above makes sense. Expensive in time, much less expensive in money.
Live with it until the problem gets worse. It is not too likely to turn into a catastrophic failure. Frustrating but free.
Last edited by wallyp; 02-14-2016 at 08:49 AM.
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lttk913 (03-13-2016)
02-17-2016, 07:01 AM
#3
It appears I have the exact same problem as Daniel, mine only started tonight! I'm going to see if I can follow Wally's tips and try to find the leak in my 2000 S430 myself - so thanks in advance..
02-26-2016, 10:50 PM
#5
Fixed - hooray!
Daniel, I hope you've had a bit of luck with yours. I traced mine to a rear strut, with the leak inside the strut itself. I printed out Wallyp's link and with the help of a video I replaced my strut. Bit of a pain to remove but no harder than a balljoint. Here in Australia we're a bit more restricted for choice with struts so I went with a cheap unit - $440 AUD delivered! I found the install ok, except for re-fitting the electrical plug - you really need two hands in a space that fits one! Words were said when a lump of dirt dropped neatly into my mouth whilst lying on my back!
I had the usual malfunctions from disconnecting the battery but these all reset easily.
I must say, Airmatic is scary. I miss my simple-by-comparison Lexus LS400...
Daniel, I hope you've had a bit of luck with yours. I traced mine to a rear strut, with the leak inside the strut itself. I printed out Wallyp's link and with the help of a video I replaced my strut. Bit of a pain to remove but no harder than a balljoint. Here in Australia we're a bit more restricted for choice with struts so I went with a cheap unit - $440 AUD delivered! I found the install ok, except for re-fitting the electrical plug - you really need two hands in a space that fits one! Words were said when a lump of dirt dropped neatly into my mouth whilst lying on my back!
I had the usual malfunctions from disconnecting the battery but these all reset easily.
I must say, Airmatic is scary. I miss my simple-by-comparison Lexus LS400...
02-27-2016, 08:06 AM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glad you got it fixed!
The more you know, the less scary it gets. Of course, I have the advantage of having a STAR/DAS/Xentry system - it helps a lot to have the full EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) with exploded views of everything; the WIS (Workshop Information System); and the DAS (Diagnostic Assistance System), which is often the most helpful.
The more you know, the less scary it gets. Of course, I have the advantage of having a STAR/DAS/Xentry system - it helps a lot to have the full EPC (Electronic Parts Catalog) with exploded views of everything; the WIS (Workshop Information System); and the DAS (Diagnostic Assistance System), which is often the most helpful.
03-12-2016, 05:13 AM
#7
shoot me now...
I thought I had fixed my S430, by installing a remanufactured rear strut as per above.
All was good, for a week of driving. Then, after two hours of a road trip, my wife hit a bump ('nothing special') and suddenly a clunking noise appeared on the same corner with the replaced strut. I dashed down and swapped cars with her and drove it back home, whereby it made a 'topping-out' noise. Almost like the strut was loose at the top mount (it wasn't as I checked it on the side of the road, along with anything else I could see with a torch)
Fast forward a week and I've been under the car and I've checked various bolts, swapped wheels, checked my spare and everything else for any potential rattles. I'm wondering if I was sent a duff strut? I'm in Australia so it's not an Arnott item.
Tomorrow I'm planning on pulling it out, and then glaring at it in the hope it will speak to me! Any ideas? It holds the ride height, doesn't drop overnight or anything. But, one of my work mates thought the rear wheel appeared to 'patter' as I drove off. It's doesn't make a sound all the time, but it's frequent enough and slightly alarming. Should be called Arghmatic!
I thought I had fixed my S430, by installing a remanufactured rear strut as per above.
All was good, for a week of driving. Then, after two hours of a road trip, my wife hit a bump ('nothing special') and suddenly a clunking noise appeared on the same corner with the replaced strut. I dashed down and swapped cars with her and drove it back home, whereby it made a 'topping-out' noise. Almost like the strut was loose at the top mount (it wasn't as I checked it on the side of the road, along with anything else I could see with a torch)
Fast forward a week and I've been under the car and I've checked various bolts, swapped wheels, checked my spare and everything else for any potential rattles. I'm wondering if I was sent a duff strut? I'm in Australia so it's not an Arnott item.
Tomorrow I'm planning on pulling it out, and then glaring at it in the hope it will speak to me! Any ideas? It holds the ride height, doesn't drop overnight or anything. But, one of my work mates thought the rear wheel appeared to 'patter' as I drove off. It's doesn't make a sound all the time, but it's frequent enough and slightly alarming. Should be called Arghmatic!
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03-12-2016, 07:41 PM
#8
Ah huh!!
So I pulled out the replacement strut and, lo and behold, when I tip it upside down I hear a clang in the top part of the shock, like a large metal plate has come apart inside. Nothing visible from outside. I assume something has come apart inside, even thought it holds air.
The strut is two weeks old (and five hours driving), from an eBay supplier. I'm guessing it's not worth trying to dismantle it myself? The supplier is 6 hours away so I'm contemplating what to do next...
So I pulled out the replacement strut and, lo and behold, when I tip it upside down I hear a clang in the top part of the shock, like a large metal plate has come apart inside. Nothing visible from outside. I assume something has come apart inside, even thought it holds air.
The strut is two weeks old (and five hours driving), from an eBay supplier. I'm guessing it's not worth trying to dismantle it myself? The supplier is 6 hours away so I'm contemplating what to do next...
03-21-2016, 02:43 AM
#10
Well, I followed advice and returned my strut, and then dealt with a very difficult eBay shop called Max PeddingRods who were reluctant to admit they received the returned item, despite freight confirmation etc. Never again with them.
Then I managed to order an Arnott item from an Australian importer who were great to deal with. Twice the price but it bolted up and hey presto! Level again...
Then I managed to order an Arnott item from an Australian importer who were great to deal with. Twice the price but it bolted up and hey presto! Level again...
