S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Wont Crank

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Old 07-29-2017, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ebrazil
Thanks tusabe. I will get on that today.

But, let me ask you and the community, because I had a few dead fuses and points that should be live (have voltage) I've looked at the fuse wiring diagram/schematics and traced from the battery to the starter relay and there are a few wires that should be live when the switch is on and are not at the fuse plug location. Do you think its advisable to narrow down the short first before ordering a part that may or may not solve my issue? My key turns, the shifter position is noted on the dash console. The spare key doesn't turn in the ignition though even after changing the batteries. I'll have to have that one reprogram once I get the car fixed.

If it doesn't rain today, I'll spend time again testing for voltage per the schematic and then if that doesn't pan out, I will take your advice. and order.
yes you need to check for voltage before anything else . I thought you said you already checked all the fuses and wires including under passenger floor , and they are all good?

if you aren't getting voltage then you need to figure that out first . These issues are most likely the fuses under passenger floor , but because you said you already ruled that out-then the next items are the anti theft parts

if you didn't really rule that out , then that's the first step
Old 08-05-2017, 07:18 PM
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Hey everyone. Sorry it took me so long to respond, but it has been raining and it also took me some time to get the ICarsoft. The ICarsoft shows that everything failed. Truth be told, I didn't read the instructions and it may not be setup correctly. Then, I re-diagnose.

Any way, I got the wiring diagram and tested the circuits starting from the battery to the starter relay. First I tested all the fuses in the trunk and at the rear SAM. Some of the fuse didn't seem to have a circuit until I moved them around. All the fuses in the trunk and SAM were hot but the car would not start from the ignition. Then I tested the battery and it had about 11.50 volts. It is new, (recently purchased when I brought the car), but I charged it anyway. Afterwards it was up to 12.90 - to 13 volts. Went in and turned the ignition and horary, it turns (cranks) over. Acted as if it wanted to start, but I should be so lucky. I didn't hear the fuel pump kick in, I think it may be the fuel relay so I will try that next.

As always, if anyone has any suggestions, please advise.

That's it for me tonight though, HOF on.

When I read the ICarsoft instructions, I will test and let you guys know.
Old 08-05-2017, 10:08 PM
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Hey guys, hope everyone is good and if you like football, football season (at least the American version) is about to start. "Are you ready for some Football!"

Enough about that. Well, I got the ICarsoft working right. No codes, and the car airmatic system started to pump the tires up. Happy for that because the system an lowered to the point that I could not get a tow truck dolly underneath the vehicle.

The car still cranks, but still no start. I will check the fuel relay tomorrow, dark now. Can anyone tell me where specifically the fuel relay is? If not, I will google it.

Thank, for any help.
Old 08-06-2017, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Ebrazil
Hey guys, hope everyone is good and if you like football, football season (at least the American version) is about to start. "Are you ready for some Football!"

Enough about that. Well, I got the ICarsoft working right. No codes, and the car airmatic system started to pump the tires up. Happy for that because the system an lowered to the point that I could not get a tow truck dolly underneath the vehicle.

The car still cranks, but still no start. I will check the fuel relay tomorrow, dark now. Can anyone tell me where specifically the fuel relay is? If not, I will google it.

Thank, for any help.
it is very unlikely to be the fuel relay
cranking but not starting is a common problem
i recommend you search past threads from other people about no starting and see what the issue was.
Old 08-06-2017, 03:30 PM
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I will start my research today.

Thanks.
Old 08-08-2017, 01:34 PM
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2000 s430 Wont Crank

Hey guys. After doing some research, I found a few things possibly preventing my car from starting. I was able to get it to cranking (turn over from the ignition) but it won't start.

My research showed that the Crank Position Sensor is a common issue for no-start and yesterday, I replaced the CPS-still no-start.

I noticed though that I didn't hear the fuel pump prime when I cranked the engine, so today, I will replace the fuel relay. Before I spend $60 on one, I want to know is that relay "T" under the rear seat and is their a way, similar to the way you can test a starter circuit (i.e., jumping circuit 30 and 87). I don't have the fuse read out many have discussed that is wrapped around a tool in the truck.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Old 08-09-2017, 08:58 PM
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Hey everyone one. Just wanted to update you on my progress.

I tested the fuel pump relay and if the circuit was working. I jumped 30 and 87 at the fuel pump relay and still no sound. Today, I pulled the positive wire off the pump and added a pigtail. I attached my circuit tester to the end of the pigtail and turned the switch to crank the engine. The tester lights up initially, so the ECM is sending a signal to the pump. Also, when the engine cranks, the tester lights up also. So, I think I've narrowed it down to the fuel pump which looks like it is the one original to the car because the crimped clamped is still on the hose that feeds into the car.

I will purchase, but still waiting for advice from you all.
Old 08-17-2017, 08:10 PM
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Hey everyone. I have good news.

I finally received the fuel pump (it must have been on the tortoise express). Anyway, it came and I installed it. I was shocked no fuel poured out when I took the hose off so I put fuel in and could hear the new on whine when the car cranks. After a few cranks it started .

It ran for a good 5 minutes and I had the opportunity to check the airmatic and other systems. The display was cycling warnings (i.e., water low, wiper fluid low, etc.). I saw a message but then the car shut down. Afterwards, it wouldn't start from the switch. Fan comes on again and no power to starter relay.

Ok, I'm going to reread the thread and I'm open for suggestions, but the forum has been silent. Would like to keep this car and need you all help to do it.

Thanks in advance.
Old 08-17-2017, 09:45 PM
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Another Solution for No Crank-Check Fuses

Well, I couldn't sleep so I took my flashlight and started to retrace voltage from the battery to the starter relay. All the block fuses (on the firewall in the trunk and under the floor board) all have voltage. Then I remembered reading that when the radio fan runs, its because of faulty power to the ECU. So, I started to test the fuses on the right side (passenger side) with my circuit tester. I grounded on fuse next to a 40 amp fuse and power to the fan was suddenly cut. I pulled the fuses some looked to have corrosion and cleaned them and reinserted them. I tried to start the car and, viola, it started as if nothing was ever wrong. Several times. This time, I let it run for awhile, shutting it down and restarting it. Starts every time.

Well, I happy and hope this will help someone who may experience this fault in the future.

Peace.
Old 08-18-2017, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Ebrazil
Well, I couldn't sleep so I took my flashlight and started to retrace voltage from the battery to the starter relay. All the block fuses (on the firewall in the trunk and under the floor board) all have voltage. Then I remembered reading that when the radio fan runs, its because of faulty power to the ECU. So, I started to test the fuses on the right side (passenger side) with my circuit tester. I grounded on fuse next to a 40 amp fuse and power to the fan was suddenly cut. I pulled the fuses some looked to have corrosion and cleaned them and reinserted them. I tried to start the car and, viola, it started as if nothing was ever wrong. Several times. This time, I let it run for awhile, shutting it down and restarting it. Starts every time.

Well, I happy and hope this will help someone who may experience this fault in the future.

Peace.
so glad you find the problem ! Which fuse box exactly was the problem located ?
the passenger side fuse box in the engine compartment or inside the car Interior?
Old 08-18-2017, 06:08 AM
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Hey thanks for responding and your help. It was the fuse box on the right side engine compartment. If I'm standing in the front it's on the left. To day I'm going to get a wire wheel on the drill and clean all the fuses and spray electric contact solvent on the fuses so they'll have good contact.
Old 08-18-2017, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Ebrazil
Hey thanks for responding and your help. It was the fuse box on the right side engine compartment. If I'm standing in the front it's on the left. To day I'm going to get a wire wheel on the drill and clean all the fuses and spray electric contact solvent on the fuses so they'll have good contact.
As an aside question, I broke the brake booster vacuum hose near the intake manifold the other day when I was installing the CPS. Is there a thread on repairing it without taking the manifold off.

Lesson to the DIYers, take care not to brake the vacuum. I will appreciate any help.

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