Trunk Lock Electrical Issue - please help diagnose
09-30-2017, 10:21 PM
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Trunk Lock Electrical Issue - please help diagnose
Hi guys - I have an ‘05 S55 with the remote trunk locking feature (hydraulic assisted open and close).
i have had an ongoing issue where the trunk lock actuator does not unlatch. I have tried repairing my trunk lock actuator (replacing the black puck) and when that didn't work, I replaced the trunk lock actuator two different times (with new parts both times, because I thought the first new part was DOA). I still have the same issue. When I ran my scanner, I see the following error:
B1446-002: Component Y65/3 (CL remote trunk lid release valve): Short circuit to ground or open circuit.
Assume something is up with the brown/blue wire that goes to the trunk lock actuator. Can someone please help me diagnose to figure out what’s going on?
Thank you!
i have had an ongoing issue where the trunk lock actuator does not unlatch. I have tried repairing my trunk lock actuator (replacing the black puck) and when that didn't work, I replaced the trunk lock actuator two different times (with new parts both times, because I thought the first new part was DOA). I still have the same issue. When I ran my scanner, I see the following error:
B1446-002: Component Y65/3 (CL remote trunk lid release valve): Short circuit to ground or open circuit.
Assume something is up with the brown/blue wire that goes to the trunk lock actuator. Can someone please help me diagnose to figure out what’s going on?
Thank you!
Last edited by homejones; 10-01-2017 at 12:07 PM.
10-02-2017, 03:02 PM
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From the wiring diagram, the Y65/3 wire runs directly to the PSE pump. There is a yellow 20A fuse under the rear passenger bench that controls the PSE system or trunk lock actuator (or both). I pulled this fuse and it is good.
10-09-2017, 11:08 AM
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Update: Figured it out - the brown/blue wire leading to the trunk lock actuator had frayed inside the retractable wiring loom (right where the wiring loom connects to the trunk lid). Had to cut open the wiring loom, fish out the brown/blue wire, then solder a piece of patch wire to connect it with the frayed end of the wire.
I spent A LOT of time and money on this issue only to find out that my lock actuator was okay and it was just a frayed wire. During the process, I managed to close my trunk with the trunk lock rod disconnected from the actuator. Unable to open the trunk with my key blade, keyfob, or trunk release button, my "best" option was to cut out my tail lamp to access the trunk lock mechanism. In the process, I managed to slice the tail lamp wiring connector in half. I got lucky and found a set of tail lamp connectors on eBay that were donated from another W220. This whole process sucked.
Leaving this info here in case someone else runs into the same issue in the future.
I spent A LOT of time and money on this issue only to find out that my lock actuator was okay and it was just a frayed wire. During the process, I managed to close my trunk with the trunk lock rod disconnected from the actuator. Unable to open the trunk with my key blade, keyfob, or trunk release button, my "best" option was to cut out my tail lamp to access the trunk lock mechanism. In the process, I managed to slice the tail lamp wiring connector in half. I got lucky and found a set of tail lamp connectors on eBay that were donated from another W220. This whole process sucked.
Leaving this info here in case someone else runs into the same issue in the future.
