Unique Air Suspension Question
06-15-2018, 02:09 PM
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2004 W220
Unique Air Suspension Question
Hi All,
First, I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all the valuable information I've read about the W220 Airmatic suspension system, It definitely helped with the replacement of one of my air springs a few months back. As, expected I've encountered a new issue, and I believe I think what might be, I would just like some feedback to see if there may be a possibility I'm not covering anything.
This last April, I encountered the front passenger side of the car completely dropped over night, as a result and with the tons of information on this forum, I was able to replace myself and get it back on the road.
Fast forward to this week, after parking the car in the garage, and in less than 3 hours the entire front end was on the ground, after starting and pressing the raise car button, the compressor kicks in, but the front of the car won't raise even in the slightest bit. last April when the passenger side air spring was bad, the drivers side, would still raise and hold.
After doing much reading again, I believe the air valve assembly block may be the issue and my reasoning is this;
1.) After exiting the car and shutting the door, I believe the car went to level itself out releasing air, but never closed the valves (why it dropped so fast and not over night)
2.) Both the front driver and passenger side have dropped completely (passenger side air spring Arnott is about 2 months old) and passenger side with new strut won't attempt to raise at all.
3.) The compressor is working and building pressure, because you can still hear it release back pressure after about 30 seconds of running
Following the steps, for diagnosing the valve block, I checked the tightness of all the lines, the P line connection to the compressor itself I noticed really wasn't tightening down (to a stop), seams like it will get to the point of just getting there, then goes loose again, after removing the compressor again, I'm suspecting there may be some thread striping from the female end (compressor end) I've examined the male brass end, and it appears to look normal.
I'm going to replace the valve assembly block, and reinstall the compressor using some blue loctite and letting rest over night before testing. My question for the experts, is do you think this would be the best logical point to start, and if not what would you be examining or diagnosing instead?
Thanks so much for any input.
Best,
Mike
First, I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all the valuable information I've read about the W220 Airmatic suspension system, It definitely helped with the replacement of one of my air springs a few months back. As, expected I've encountered a new issue, and I believe I think what might be, I would just like some feedback to see if there may be a possibility I'm not covering anything.
This last April, I encountered the front passenger side of the car completely dropped over night, as a result and with the tons of information on this forum, I was able to replace myself and get it back on the road.
Fast forward to this week, after parking the car in the garage, and in less than 3 hours the entire front end was on the ground, after starting and pressing the raise car button, the compressor kicks in, but the front of the car won't raise even in the slightest bit. last April when the passenger side air spring was bad, the drivers side, would still raise and hold.
After doing much reading again, I believe the air valve assembly block may be the issue and my reasoning is this;
1.) After exiting the car and shutting the door, I believe the car went to level itself out releasing air, but never closed the valves (why it dropped so fast and not over night)
2.) Both the front driver and passenger side have dropped completely (passenger side air spring Arnott is about 2 months old) and passenger side with new strut won't attempt to raise at all.
3.) The compressor is working and building pressure, because you can still hear it release back pressure after about 30 seconds of running
Following the steps, for diagnosing the valve block, I checked the tightness of all the lines, the P line connection to the compressor itself I noticed really wasn't tightening down (to a stop), seams like it will get to the point of just getting there, then goes loose again, after removing the compressor again, I'm suspecting there may be some thread striping from the female end (compressor end) I've examined the male brass end, and it appears to look normal.
I'm going to replace the valve assembly block, and reinstall the compressor using some blue loctite and letting rest over night before testing. My question for the experts, is do you think this would be the best logical point to start, and if not what would you be examining or diagnosing instead?
Thanks so much for any input.
Best,
Mike
