Hi. I'm in the market to replace my Airmatic level valve block (2001 W220). eBay and AliExpress are awash with plastic "knock off" of the OEM part (which is cast metal). Has anyone tried one of these plastic equivalent? Are these just as good or last longer because they don't corrode?

 

Are you really serious!

 

I replaced mine with used valve block and it fixed air leak

 

When you think you seen it all this post comes along. Op I wouldn't buy parts for my bicycle from China. If you can't buy the proper parts for this car then maybe it is time to sell it and move on to something else cheaper.

 

Hi. Thanks for the well meaning advice. Sure, they are made in China and they are plastic (or ABS plastic) so I'm hoping someone has tried one or has an opinion "based on having fitted one". I agree with the sentiments but i disagree that selling the car is a solution. Once you've had Airmatic, ADS or ABC... its hard to go without and i'm not about to sell a car with problems to someone else. I'm hoping to hear from anyone who bough one or more and can give some kind of insight... good or bad. if you know someone please ask them to contact me.

 

Many people are 'stuck' with ancient old distrust of 'things made in China.' There are still good reasons to be skeptical of quality, durability, etc. However, there is ALSO Very good reasons to be excited about parts supply from China. Every 'electronic' device incorporates key components 'manufactured in China.' China based firms are the OEM suppliers to the world for millions of different parts and assemblies. China is unfortunately also home of some of the largest 'counterfeiters' of pharmaceuticals, consumer electronics, high end 'accessories' for women and food supplements. These illegal firms ARE being closed down by Chinese authorities, but new ones pop-up almost as fast. This will take many years to change the 'culture' of IP theft and counterfeiting.

The term 'plastic' is akin to saying 'metal,' which ranges from 'pot metal' to Titanium. Many 'engineering polymers' are more than strong enough to replace the use of 'metal.' The 'Airmatic' suspension system is of 'moderate' pressure' and low stress in the air system components. The 'suitability' of a 'plastic block valve' is a big question at this time, but that the parts ARE being manufactured and sold strongly supports their suitability. The 'purchasers' would stop overnite if the parts were no-good. It's not like cosmetics or purses where 'similar' is good enough. The bock valves MUST work well.
I would be comfortable trying one to judge for myself.

 

So first to speak on the plastic when you screw the airlines in the plastic easily strips because it's plastic and you're screwing in a metal screw. This compromises the seal you need to be leak free. So in my case I bought one of these and when I installed it my compressor didn't even turn on. I'm pretty sure the valve block I bought is to blame because when I reinstalled the old one my compressor turned on. You might be better off with a used one. Junkyard is always an option. I know this post is old but maybe this could help someone.

 

Hi Alfred,
Thanks for your contribution to the post. I agree with your comments, many people have sent me messages of "mixed or unfavorable results" when replacing the level valve block with the plastic version. I to have replaced my pump with a complete second hand unit (block and pump) from a W211 E500 . The pump is still working but the level valve block suffered the same fate as my original block... it leaked internally, causing the car to be uneven in as little time as over night or for any extended period it sat undriven.

However, as of today I can add that I did purchase and install one of the plastic level valve blocks over 5 months ago and it solved most of the issues I was concerned about. However, I had help figuring out what I was doing wrong.

To recap:
Q. Plastic block as good as metal block? A: Yes
Q. Cross Threads & leaks? A: No. (But you MUST use the pipe nuts/ferules that come with the new block.
Q. Performance - longevity. A: Over 5 months and 12K Km, no issues so far. Car behaves better in "raised" suspension mode. Compressor runs for <1 minute about once a week!

So the issues with leaks/cross threading appeared to be that the pipe nuts for the Metal block valve are slightly different taper and thinner o-ring than those supplied on the plastic part. So what I thought would save me time to "re-use" the old nuts was the reason it cross-threaded easily and I still had a very very slow external leak. However, the manufacturer insisted I use nuts supplied so I took off the old pipe nuts/o-rings (took over an hour, very fiddly and stuck together) and used those supplied by the manufacturer, All great now.

New "Plastic" level valve block installed... mistake I made was re-using the old pipe nuts (shown above). Once I replaced the old pipe nuts... no issues with cross threading and NO external leaks.

Plastic level valve block for W220/W211. No oil required but you must use the nut and feral supplied by the manufacture (gold-ish/brass colour in picture). The white plastic holder in each pipe nut is discarded.

One thing you should check before removing the old unit is the block support rubbers (shown on the right in this photo). The thread length for the standard support is longer than the threaded holes in the plastic block. Doesn't seem to affect the final fit.

Original (wrecker part - used) W211 pump and level valve block for AirMatic. Very first thing I checked is that the electrical connector for the pressure sensor was the same for both the new and old part.

 

I suspect many people try to use the orIginal fittings as its less labor

 

Great follow up post marc luc. How did you determine that the valve was leaking internally?