Just got the car and can’t seem to fit out what is wrong with the car.
checked the valve block for leaks with water and soap
checked all top mounts for leaks also and can’t seem to fig out where the leak or culprit is
bought a mbII to help try to find some type of reason and I can think of the shock itself is leaking or the valve block solenoid is not closing causing the air to decompress back into the compressor

 

Most common cause is leakage in the fabric and rubber rolling diaphragm inside the Airmatic strut. Most common repair is installation of an Arnott-rebuilt strut. Reasonable price, lifetime warranty. Installing a cheap Chinese strut is a major gamble. There are numerous YouTube videos on replacing a W220 rear strut.

 

I could hear a hissing noise but it’s coming from black box area in front of the rear driver wheel.ive been meaning to open it up and see what it is but from searching online I haven’t seen anything showing that it’s connected to Airmatic system.
this is a new account I had to make cuz I couldn’t remember my old password just to try to get a quick answer.
my old name was jbenz2001.i plan on reactivating soon so I don’t get looked as that Newbie not using the search function lol

 

Strut connection is inside the passenger compartment at the corner of the rear window. The diaphragm is the only possible source for an air leak under the car.

 

Yeah I sprayed both sides and also the valve block and I do t see any leaks.can a leak from the front affect the rear.its only my rear driver side.

 

The odds of the strut being bad are probably 80%, and if you are hearing hissing at that corner, the odds are probably 95% or better. It is usually impossible to find the leak unless it is really, really bad - as in dropping that corner in thirty minutes. If it is slower, it is very, very difficult to detect.

It is possible, but not very likely, that the problem is a leaking valve on that line in the valve block. If that is the case, the leak will not be to the outside, but will be internal.

 

So apparently cuz I’m new to the mbII icarsoft I was reading diagnostics from the wrong model smh.found the right one and got some codes now.
the air leak that I would or thought was the fuel pump running lol.
the only good thing is that car doesn’t drop overnight it still keeps me at a almost even level with the rest of the car.i would say it’s about 1/2 and to inch difference.
i cleared the codes and will drive the car on break to see what happens

 

Like to mention I went outside and checked my fuses and the pump fuse is popped now

 

Can it possible that my speed sensor is causing the car to lower itself by giving the vehicle wrong reading.the car only lowers on the driver side rear once I’m driving and the pump will turn on to get it back to being even and after about 5-10 I’ll get the visit workshop light until I stop at a light then I’ll get the red car to low.