S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

2005 S430 Valve Tap

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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 11:17 AM
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From: In The Woods
2019 W222 S560 4Matic/2025 Yukon Denali
2005 S430 Valve Tap

Hi,
I also have noticed a valve tap, or tap noise coming from cyl 3 on the pass bank of my S430.
It has the M113 motor.
Should I add some seafoam to the crankcase see if I can silence it?
Maybe a lifter or sticky rocker?

Anyone use seafoam in the crank?
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 03:33 AM
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Mercedes
Originally Posted by vinflouen
Hi,
I also have noticed a valve tap, or tap noise coming from cyl 3 on the pass bank of my S430.
It has the M113 motor.
Should I add some seafoam to the crankcase see if I can silence it?
Maybe a lifter or sticky rocker?

Anyone use seafoam in the crank?
Yes Seafoam plus an Italian tune up (high load , uphill incline at full throttle ) should help if it’s a sticky lifter
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 10:32 AM
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Mercedes-Benz S430, S500, S600, and E320 CDI
How did you determine that it was cylinder 3 and not, say, cylinder 2 or 4? I tried using an automotive stethoscope, and it's just as loud anywhere I touch the valve cover.
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Old Sep 18, 2019 | 09:56 AM
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I used the stethascope and isolated it at cyl 3.
I put the seafoam in and did some Jersey driving (same thing as an Italian Tune up, and Italian Tune up is what I give my kid when he is being a brat).
Seemed to quiet it down. I am going to run a hundred more miles and change the oil next week.
I do oil every 5k and only use Mobil 1 M spec, 5w-40.......

Seafoam is cool stuff!
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 04:26 PM
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Thanks, I'll try the stethoscope again. Got some Marvel Mystery Oil in the car now, and repeated uses of a quart every oil change, plus changing the oil every 5,000 miles, has helped quiet it down some.
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Old Sep 24, 2019 | 10:23 AM
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001 s600, 94 sl600
These 'minor valve tapping sound' will GROW into camshaft damage requiring cam replacement. IF the lifter/bucket/tappet is sticky enough to not return fully up, that can mean the valve is not completely closing (not good can cause burned valve.) The 'lifter' also can stop rotating and a groove will develop in its top where the cam lobe always contacts it. This usually also wears the lobe tip to a flat, which requires camshaft replacement to cure.
A few years back the auto manufacturers asked oil companies to lower the zinc based anti-wear in the oil to not damage the emissions catalyst.
This combined with the (IMHO) too long extended oil change intervals can result in camshaft lobe wear into a flat spot.
Several possible treatments---depending on how bad the flat spot is.

1) Replace or regrind the camshaft and replace the damaged 'lifter.'
2) Add a ZDDP additive to a fresh oil change and cross your fingers.
3) Locate the damaged cam lobe and , using a very hard 'Arkansas" whet stone, reprofile that cam lobe smoothing out the damaged lobe back to a smooth continuous (no flat spot) profile. and add ZDDP and cross fingers (and replace the lifter if damaged at all.
4) remove valve cover and with the damaged lobe pointing up, reprofile it and dribble gum solvent around the lifter, rotating it until it is free.
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